February 2006: A Magical Encounter with Baja’s Grey Whales
Sometimes, the best trips are the ones right in your backyard, and for me, Baja, Mexico has always been one of those places. Few experiences compare to a journey south to the lagoons during the grey whale migration, a time when mother grey whales seek refuge in the shallow, warm waters of Baja to give birth.
These incredible whales make one of the longest migrations in the animal kingdom, traveling from their feeding grounds in the frigid Arctic waters off Alaska—a journey filled with starvation, exhaustion, and the ever-present danger of orca attacks. But once they reach Baja’s lagoons, they are finally safe, relaxed, and content in the calm, shallow waters.
What makes this experience truly surreal is the whales’ unexpected behavior. No one knows exactly why they do it, but these massive creatures actively approach tourist boats—sometimes even nudging them—presenting their newborn calves and seemingly inviting human interaction. Unlike any other whale encounter I’ve had, these whales seem to enjoy being touched.
I’ve been fortunate to swim with sperm whales, humpback whales, and whale sharks, but nothing compares to this. The experience of petting a grey whale—feeling the smooth, rubbery skin of an animal that has traveled thousands of miles to be here—is one of the most intimate and awe-inspiring wildlife encounters I’ve ever had.
San Ignacio lagoon
A Road Trip to San Ignacio Lagoon: Baja’s Wild Grey Whale Sanctuary
To experience Baja’s legendary grey whale migration, I set off on a 12-hour drive south from San Diego with my brother Jesse and two friends, Holly and Jared. The journey took us through stunning desert landscapes and breathtaking ocean scenery, reminding me why Baja is one of my favorite places on Earth.
Reaching San Ignacio Lagoon wasn’t easy. This wild, protected sanctuary has zero development, preserving its untouched beauty. To get there, we had to navigate a long, rustic graded road for several hours, bouncing along the rugged terrain until we finally arrived at our remote whale camp.
For the next two nights, we stayed in a simple cabin with bunk beds, our base for multiple daily boat trips into the lagoon. Each outing offered another chance to interact with the friendly grey whales, who would approach our small motorboat, sometimes with their calves.
Beyond the whale encounters, we also explored the intertidal zone at low tide, searching for octopuses and other fascinating marine life. The remoteness of the lagoon, the abundance of wildlife, and the raw, untouched beauty of the region made it one of the most unforgettable nature experiences I’ve ever had.
Road to lagoon
Common vulture
Desert scenery around the wilderness of the lagoon
Low tide in lagoon
An Unforgettable Encounter: Up Close with the Grey Whales of San Ignacio
The lagoon was alive with whales. Everywhere we looked, they were spy-hopping, breaching, and playing joyfully with their calves. Unlike other whale encounters, where you feel like an observer, here the whales seemed just as curious about us as we were about them.
They would approach our boat unprompted, lingering for minutes at a time, allowing everyone to pet them, run our hands over their rough, rubbery skin, and even kiss them. Their massive, gentle eyes locked onto ours, creating an intimate, almost surreal connection.
With each exhale from their blowholes, we were drenched in a mist of warm, fish-scented air, the unmistakable smell of the ocean’s greatest travelers. At any moment, a whale might spy-hop or breach right next to the boat—without warning.
At one point, a massive whale breached just a few feet from me, sending a powerful wave of ocean water crashing over me. The sheer force of it was both thrilling and humbling—if I had been leaning out just a little more, I could have been decapitated.
The entire experience was raw, wild, and deeply moving—a rare, once-in-a-lifetime interaction with one of the ocean’s most intelligent and gentle giants.
Whale spy hopping
Petting the whales barnacled head
Huge 10′ head
Spy hop
My brother petting a whale
Video of us petting the whale and the whale looking at us underwater
Petting the whale
Whale petting
Mom and baby
A Perilous Night Drive Back to San Diego
Leaving San Ignacio, we made the long drive back to San Diego, breaking one of the cardinal rules of travel in Mexico—never drive at night.
Navigating the winding, desolate desert roads after dark was an unnerving experience. With no streetlights and long stretches of isolation, the risks were everywhere. Drunk drivers, livestock on the road, and broken-down vehicles with no emergency lights made every mile a potential hazard.
Then, we witnessed something truly horrifying.
A speeding vehicle ahead of us suddenly veered off the road, plunging into a canyon. The impact was instantaneous, and within moments, the wreck erupted into flames. We pulled over, looking down into the darkness, hoping to find survivors. But it was clear—there was no hope for anyone inside.
With no emergency services nearby, we had no choice but to continue to the next town—20 miles away—to report the accident to the police.
The rest of the drive was a test of nerves. We dodged stalled vehicles sitting in the middle of the road with no lights, swerved to avoid wandering cattle, and passed through multiple Federale checkpoints, where armed officers thoroughly searched our vehicle for drugs.
By the time we finally crossed the border back into the U.S., we were exhausted, relieved, and fully aware of just how lucky we were.
The whale encounters in San Ignacio had been magical, but the drive home was a stark reminder that Baja’s beauty is matched by its unpredictability.