Last Stop Chiang Mai: A Reunion in Thailand’s Northern Heart

Temples, Street Food, and a Final Night with an Old Friend

Thailand is a country I’ve visited no less than six times over the past 30 years, and I’ve always enjoyed my time there. I’ve spent over a week in total exploring the country—traveling through the south, visiting Phuket and the surrounding islands—but in all honesty, Thailand has mostly served as a gateway for me, a convenient and well-connected hub to access the more remote corners of Southeast Asia.

From Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago to the ancient temples of Cambodia, Thailand has often been the springboard for my deeper adventures. As a result, I’ve never truly concentrated my efforts on exploring Thailand in depth, and strangely, despite so many visits, I had almost no photos to show for it—until now.

One reason I didn’t linger longer in Thailand may be because it receives far more tourists than its neighbors—in fact, in 2024 alone, Thailand welcomed over 35 million international visitors, making it one of the most visited countries in the world. Compared to the quieter, less-developed destinations in Southeast Asia that I often gravitate toward, Thailand can feel a bit more polished and heavily traveled. But even so, I’ve always liked Thailand—and this quick visit to Chiang Mai reminded me exactly why.

With its reliable infrastructure, family-friendly vibe, and a culture that blends tradition with comfort, I now plan to return—next time with my family—to explore more of the north’s countryside, hill tribes, and national parks, and to finally give Thailand the attention it has long deserved.

A Reunion in the North

A week after parting ways with Sterling due to his passport fiasco in Vietnam, I finally reunited with him on the last day and night of our trip—in Chiang Mai. It was the perfect place to wrap up a journey that had taken us through modern megacities, war memorials, jungle rivers, and remote hill tribes.

Getting There: A Bumpy Ride to Calm

I flew from Luang Prabang, Laos to Chiang Mai via Lao Airlines on a short, turbulent hop aboard a bumpy ATR propeller plane. The ride was rough, but the reward was more than worth it. Not only was flying home via Chiang Mai and Taipei with EVA Airlines cheaper than routing through Bangkok, but it also gave me the opportunity to experience a part of Thailand I had never visited before: the laid-back, mountainous north.

With just a half-day and a morning to explore, I was determined to make the most of it.

Royal Imagery and Cultural Reverence Across the Country

Before I talk about my visit to Chiang Mai, I want to provide a little background on Thailand that I find particularly interesting. Thailand is the only country in Southeast Asia with a monarchy that is still deeply revered. While Cambodia also has a king, his image and role are far less prominent. In contrast, Thailand’s royal presence is everywhere—woven into the country’s identity. The rest of the region’s monarchies have long been abolished, often replaced by communist regimes or military dictatorships, making Thailand’s continued monarchy all the more unique.

In all my trips to Thailand—six visits over the past 30 years—one constant has been the ubiquity of royal portraits. From towering, gold-framed billboards to small framed photos in shops, temples, and restaurants, the king’s image is ever-present.

Even inside Buddhist temples, it’s common to see the images of the king receiving blessings from monks or participating in sacred rituals, further emphasizing his cultural role.

Though the Thai monarchy today holds little political power, the king remains a powerful symbol of national unity and tradition. The current monarch, Maha Vajiralongkorn (Rama X), in his 70s, is the son of the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX)—a beloved figure who ruled for over 70 years until his death in 2016. His passing led to a 390-day mourning period, during which the entire country slowed down: bars closed, events were canceled, and even parts of the red-light district shut in solemn respect.

Thailand enforces strict lèse-majesté laws, making it a crime to insult the monarchy, with long prison sentences possible—even for foreigners. It’s a powerful reminder that respect for the royal family isn’t just cultural—it’s legal and deeply enforced.

These ever-present royal portraits aren’t just decoration—they reflect a unique aspect of Thai identity, where tradition, religion, and monarchy remain tightly woven into daily life.

Chiang Mai Arrival: Banyan Trees, Temples, and a Mai Tai Victory

Northern Thailand’s Second City Surprises with Charm and a Saved Camera Roll

When I arrived in Chiang Mai, Thailand’s second-largest city after Bangkok, I was struck by how relaxed and compact it felt in comparison—smaller than expected, but still humming with life. At the same time, the Old City was more built up than I had imagined, with a surprising number of cafes, shops, and restored temples tucked behind ancient brick walls and the surrounding moat.

A Rainy Arrival and a Jungle Hotel Escape

After disembarking from an uncomfortable ATR turboprop flight from Luang Prabang, I quickly found my way to the hotel: the Yaang Come Village, a boutique retreat nestled in what felt like a small pocket of jungle right in the city.

• The centerpiece of the property was a massive banyan tree, towering overhead and draped in vines, giving the whole place a mystical, tropical vibe.

• Despite the rain from a passing thunderstorm, I jumped into the pool for a quick swim, soaking in the warm water as the sky cracked above me.

• The combination of lush gardens, rain-soaked air, and old-world Lanna-style architecture made the hotel an immediate favorite of mine.

Wandering Temples and Recovering Lost Memories

Later that afternoon, I walked through the city to get a feel for its layout, stopping at several temples along the way—each one humming with quiet energy and intricate detail. The air smelled of incense and wet earth, and monks moved calmly through the courtyards under umbrellas.

But the real victory of the day came when I found a small electronics shop that sold a memory card phone adapter—the tool I needed to check if any photos could be recovered from my SLR camera, which had been soaked in the river back in Laos.

To my shock and delight, both memory cards still worked. Despite the camera being destroyed, all of my photos from Laos were saved. Being able to upload them to my phone and relive the journey was a huge relief.

Celebration, Chiang Mai Style

To celebrate the unexpected recovery of my photos, I did what anyone would do in a jungle-fringed Thai city with warm rain falling outside: I ordered a Mai Tai, sat back at the hotel’s open-air bar, and toasted to second chances and waterproof miracles.

Sunday Night in Chiang Mai: Temples, Tuk Tuks, and a $5 Massage

An Evening of Sacred Stillness, Street Shopping, and Final Memories Before the Journey Home

Later that evening, Sterling and I walked together to the Sunday Night Market, a sprawling maze of lights, smells, and colors. We browsed for souvenirs, sampled street food, and soaked up the energy of Chiang Mai on a warm tropical night. The market pulsed with life, offering great food and a variety of products for sale.

Wat Chedi Luang: A Temple Lost in Time

Of all the temples I’ve visited across Asia, Wat Chedi Luang—a 15th-century Buddhist temple in the heart of the Old City—ranks among my favorites. That night, we practically had the place to ourselves. The crowds had thinned, and the ancient stone chedi stood silently under the night sky.

• The temple’s massive stone stupa, flanked by carved dragons, reminded me of a Mayan pyramid in Mexico—powerful, symmetrical, and filled with mystery.

• I wished we could have climbed to the top to see the golden Buddha statue housed there, but access was sadly but understandably restricted.

• Still, the place was magical, radiating an atmosphere of calm and reverence that kept us wandering its grounds for hours.

Tuk Tuk Tactics and the Insect Market That Got Away

To get around, we took a tuk tuk—Sterling’s first ride. He quickly discovered what many travelers before him have learned: tuk-tuks aren’t dangerous, but they should be paid only after the ride ends, not before. That’s the best way to avoid detours, surprise fees, or getting ripped off altogether.

We tried searching for the famous insect market, where fried bugs and larvae are sold as snacks, but couldn’t locate it in the chaos of the night market. Still, the experience of wandering the city’s backstreets and side stalls made up for the miss.

The Best $5 You Can Spend

Back near our hotel, I found a small massage parlor tucked behind a row of shops—legitimate, professional, and only $5 including tip. For a full hour of skilled, relaxing bodywork, it was one of those simple pleasures that makes Southeast Asia such an unbeatable destination for travelers.

Wat Chedi Luang temple.  

A Surprising Temple Rule

The sign at the front of the Buddhist temple stating that women aren’t allowed to enter while menstruating struck me as a bit bizarre—but in the form of Buddhism practiced in Thailand, this belief is still commonly observed.

A Slow Goodbye to Chiang Mai Under the Banyan Tree

The next morning, we woke slowly and had one last breakfast at Yaang Come Village, seated beneath the massive banyan tree at the heart of the property. Birds chirped, the air was thick with humidity and garden fragrance, and we both sat quietly, soaking it in.

At noon, we headed to the airport to catch our long EVA Airlines flight home via Taipei—ending our 10-day adventure across Laos, Vietnam, and northern Thailand.

Though Chiang Mai was the most touristy place I visited on this trip, I can honestly say I liked it a lot. It was comfortable, laid-back, and full of charm, with a vibe that made it easy to relax. I could definitely see myself coming back one day—this time with my family—to spend more time exploring the surrounding countryside, nearby villages, and national parks that give this region its reputation as one of Thailand’s most scenic.

Even with just a half-day and a morning, Chiang Mai left its mark.