March 2002 — First Journey into Ancient Egypt

I have always been fascinated by ancient Egyptian history. Few places ignite the imagination like Egypt—a land of vast desert, towering pyramids, mummies, undiscovered tombs, and legendary curses. There is too much romance and mystery here for a single visit to ever be enough.

This trip marked my first encounter with Egypt, taking me through Cairo, along the timeless Nile River, and into some of the world’s most extraordinary ancient sites, before ending at the Red Sea near Hurghada. It was more than a journey—it was the beginning of a lifelong fascination with one of humanity’s greatest civilizations.

Map of locations in Egypt I visited after 20 years of travel to Egypt

First Time in Egypt — Traveling Against the Warnings

My first trip to Egypt was in 2002, only months after the Iraq War began, when resentment toward the United States in much of the Arab world was at a peak. It was my first time in both Africa and the Arab world, and everyone back home warned me not to go—some even insisting I would die if I did. I was nervous, but I went anyway. I didn’t realize then that this would become a recurring theme in my travels—and that fear would never stop me.

Hospitality Where I Expected Hostility

I spent two weeks in Egypt, and contrary to the dire warnings, I was met with nothing but smiles and genuine hospitality. Rather than hostility, I found warmth, curiosity, and kindness. Egypt quickly became one of the friendliest countries I had visited up to that point.

Cairo and the Magic of the Past

I began and ended the journey in Cairo, visiting the Great Pyramids and the Egyptian Museum—a museum to museums. Built in 1902, it houses hundreds of thousands of artifacts, mummies, and tomb relics. Its dusty, unkempt atmosphere made it feel ancient and magical, like something out of Harry Potter, as if the exhibits might come alive at any moment.

From Five-Star Luxury to a $10 Lesson

With tourism low, I initially stayed at the Nile Hilton, enjoying five-star luxury at a bargain price. Trying to save money, I later checked into a dirt-cheap hotel atop a crumbling skyscraper. I foolishly paid before seeing the room. It had no lock, the door wouldn’t stay shut, and the mattress reeked of gasoline and bore mysterious stains. When the manager refused a refund, I walked out, forfeited my $10, and returned to the Nile Hilton—this time happily paying $150 for peace of mind.

Me Taking a tourist photo at Giza Pyramids

Alone Inside the Great Pyramid

In the aftermath of 9/11 and the Iraq War, tourism in Egypt was at an all-time low. Prices were heavily in my favor, and many of the country’s most famous sites felt almost abandoned—including the Pyramids of Giza.

I entered the Great Pyramid of Khufu the moment it opened and rushed ahead through the narrow passages to the central chamber, where the lone sarcophagus rests. For nearly 30 minutes, I stood completely alone inside the heart of the largest pyramid ever built—an experience so rare and surreal that it remains one of the most unforgettable moments of my travels.

Me standing in one of the ancient structures adjoining the pyramids

Aswan and Sailing the Southern Nile

From Cairo, I flew south to Aswan, gateway to the southern Nile and homeland of the Nubian people—a dark-skinned culture that once ruled Egypt and built an empire stretching deep into what is now Sudan.

I hired a traditional felucca and sailed the Nile, stopping at ancient ruins along the way and making friends everywhere I went. Tourism was so sparse that I was one of the only guests at the old British colonial-era hotel, believed to be haunted, where Agatha Christie once wrote Death on the Nile. Drifting along the river by sail and staying in a place steeped in history made the journey feel timeless—like Egypt revealing itself slowly, on its own terms.

Nubian men smoking Shisha tobacco pipes

Nubian shopowners

Answan Nile River Falucas

Cruising the Nile to Luxor

From Aswan, I booked a multi-day overnight Nile cruise upriver to Luxor. I had my own cabin with a window overlooking the Nile, formal-attire dinners each night, and onboard entertainment—including an Egyptian belly dancer who traveled with a bodyguard for her own protection.

The boat stopped regularly at ancient sites along the river, but while cruising between destinations I spent most of my time on deck playing ping pong—and sending an embarrassing number of balls overboard into the Nile. Between ruins, river breezes, and the slow rhythm of life on the water, the journey felt as much a part of the experience as the destinations themselves.

View of Nile River from my room on the Nile cruise

Luxor — Capital of the Ancient World

The cruise ended in Luxor, where we were free to explore on our own. I spent several days immersed in the extraordinary treasures of the city and its surroundings. Once the capital of ancient Egypt, Luxor is an open-air museum, home to some of the most remarkable archaeological sites on Earth.

I visited Karnak Temple, the Valley of the Kings, and the tombs of legendary pharaohs including Ramses and Tutankhamun. Rising dramatically from the desert cliffs was the Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, one of the most striking and unforgettable monuments of the ancient world.

Snake charmer I met on the street with 20 or so cobras.For a small tip, I let him put them all around my neck and it wasnt until afterwards that I checked to see if they had fangsand I discovered the fangs were removed. I did later learn that fangs grow back on snakes and that sometimes snake charmers in places like this are not always dilligent about checking if all fangs havent returned.  

Me with conras around my neck

60 Feet Tall Collousus Statues of Memnon that have stood since 1350BC

Queen Hatshepsut Temple where only a few years before almost a hundred tourists were gunned down by a terrorist from on top of the cliff behind the temple. 

Queen Hatshepsut Temple where only a few years before almost a hundred tourists were gunned down by a terrorist from on top of the cliff behind the temple. 

Karnak Temple

King Ramses at Karnak temple

Min God of Fertility Carving. many of the carvings in karnak were defaced by pious Muslim and Christian armies that invaded Egypt. This carving of Min was very well detailed. The legend is based on a real man who was handicapped and unable to fight in the pharoes wars so he was left with the village women and children while men went to war. When men returned from battle they discovered that their wives had been impregnated by the handicapped man, who was very well endowed. Min became worshipped as a God of fertility in time and one legged erect depcitions of him can be found across Egypt. 

Me with friends I met in Luxur

Back streets of Luxur in the residential areas where tourists never go and where I felt out of place

Hurghada — The Red Sea and an Unexpected Lesson

From Luxor, I traveled by train and bus to Hurghada, a Red Sea resort city. One stretch of the highway required a police escort due to fears of terrorist attacks—a reminder of how tense the region still felt in the aftermath of 9/11 and the Iraq War.

Once in Hurghada, I checked into a small guesthouse and enrolled in a four-day Advanced Open Water diving course. The diving was extraordinary: vibrant coral reefs, wreck dives, night dives, and deep dives in some of the clearest water I had ever seen.

Staying Put Changes Everything

Getting my advanced certification forced me to stay in one place for a full week—and that became the most meaningful part of my time there. As one of the only foreigners in the guesthouse, the Egyptian staff quickly “adopted” me. The manager was fiercely loyal and protective, determined that I experience Egypt at its best and that no one take advantage of me.

That loyalty led to one of the most surreal moments of my travels.

The $2 Barber Incident

While out alone one day, I stopped for a haircut. The barber overcharged me by a few dollars and refused to budge, insisting that as an American I could afford it. I paid and returned to the guesthouse, thinking nothing of it.

When the manager found out, he was furious. He marched me back to the barbershop demanding a refund, nearly coming to blows when the barber again refused. He then insisted we go to the police.

What followed felt unreal. Tourism was treated as gold at the time, and when police learned I’d been overcharged, they mobilized immediately—AK-47s, military jeeps, soldiers with mounted guns. I rode with my friend and the police commander, suddenly worried I had triggered something far beyond my control.

The barber fled but was quickly found and returned handcuffed and terrified. The police commander then turned to me and asked what I wanted done.

In that moment, I realized I had real power—and that the consequences for this man could be severe. I didn’t want punishment or revenge. I only asked for the few dollars I’d been overcharged.

The commander looked shocked. “You sure?”

I nodded.

The barber refunded the money—about $2—then ordered tea for everyone. Moments later, we were all sitting together, drinking tea, laughing, and smiling as if nothing had happened.

More Than Just Diving

Hurghada gave me incredible diving, but more importantly, it gave me insight into friendship, loyalty, power, and restraint—lessons that stayed with me long after I left the Red Sea.

Beduin Camp

Bedouins of the Eastern Desert and the Journey Home

During my time in Egypt, nomadic Bedouin tribes still roamed the desert, though the government was actively encouraging them to settle into villages through economic incentives. Intrigued, I joined a day trip to a Bedouin camp deep in the Eastern Desert, hours from Hurghada and accessible only by 4WD. I spent the day observing their way of life—one of my earliest encounters with a nomadic culture, and a spark that would later draw me to many more around the world.

From Hurghada, I endured a long bus journey back to Cairo, crossing the Suez Canal before flying home via Zurich, Switzerland. I stayed one night there, doing my best to avoid financial ruin in one of the world’s most expensive countries, before finally returning home—changed, inspired, and already dreaming of the next adventure.