Marquesas Islands-Polynesia Forgotten by Tourism & Swimming with Humpback Whales in Moorea, Tahiti

The Marquesas Islands: A Remote and Untamed Paradise

The Marquesas Islands, a sparsely populated volcanic archipelago, stand among the most isolated island chains in the world. Located in the far reaches of French Polynesia, they are geographically and culturally distinct, untouched by mass tourism and modernization.

Reaching the Marquesas is no easy feat—the only way is via a long and expensive four-hour flight from Papeete, Tahiti, aboard a turbo-prop plane. Because of this extreme isolation, few outsiders make the journey, allowing the islands to retain their raw, traditional atmosphere.

The Marquesan people take immense pride in their warrior heritage, a legacy reflected in their art, tattoos, and traditions. Unlike much of French Polynesia, where Tahitian dominates, the Marquesans still speak their own distinct language, preserving a cultural identity that has remained remarkably resilient against time and outside influence.

For those who make the journey, the Marquesas offer a glimpse into a Polynesia that few get to see—a land of towering cliffs, lush valleys, and an ancient culture that still beats strong.

Map showing location of Marquesas’ islands

October 2020 – A Pandemic Escape to French Polynesia

Day 1: The Journey to Tahiti & Nuku Hiva

During the pandemic, most Pacific island nations remained closed or imposed strict quarantine requirements. However, in autumn 2020, French Polynesia briefly reopened, allowing travelers in with a negative COVID test before departure and another test four days after arrival.

As soon as this opportunity arose, my wife, a few friends, and I jumped at the chance. We booked an eight-hour flight from LAX to Papeete and onward tickets to Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas Islands—one of the most remote and least-visited places in the Pacific.

At the time, only two airlines were flying into Tahiti—United and Polynesian Airlines. With Air France and others canceling flights, I was a bit anxious about getting stranded before even reaching Tahiti. Adding to the uncertainty, a typhoon had formed off the coast of Mexico along our flight path.

Fortunately, our flight made it as scheduled. It wasn’t as empty as some of my other pandemic-era flights, but still quieter than normal. We arrived in Papeete at night and stayed at a hotel near the airport, resting before the next leg of our journey.

Day 2: Snorkeling with Humpback Whales in Moorea

We had two nights and one full day in Tahiti, and I knew exactly how I wanted to spend it—swimming with humpback whales.

In the morning, we took the public ferry to Moorea, a 1.5-hour journey across the crystal-blue waters separating the islands. Despite its proximity to Papeete, Moorea felt like a world away—lush, quiet, and untouched compared to the bustling capital.

Before our excursion, we spent a few hours relaxing by a hotel pool at the marina, soaking in the serene, tropical atmosphere. Then, in the afternoon, we boarded a speedboat with our guide and captain, setting off around the island in search of whales.

Our guide had been tracking recent sightings, and we sped across the waves toward the other side of Moorea, where the whales had been spotted recently. The anticipation was building. Would we be lucky enough to have an up-close encounter with these gentle giants?

Moorea Island

Moorea Island

Tahitian girl dancing by herself 

A Wild Swim with Humpback Whales in the Open Ocean

As we left the protected lagoon of Moorea, our boat sped past the reef into the open ocean, where the waves became noticeably rougher. In the distance, our guide suddenly pointed—whale flukes!

He explained that we had found a mother humpback whale and her calf. Their massive tails lifted gracefully from the water before disappearing beneath the surface. Excitement surged through me as our guide stopped the boat about 1,000 yards away and hurried us into the water to begin our pursuit.

The moment I hit the open ocean, I could feel the difference from calm, shallow snorkeling. The waves were relentless, rising and falling around us, making visibility a challenge. My wife struggled with her snorkel, inhaling water as she fought against the swell. Snorkeling 1,000 yards in deep, unprotected ocean was no easy task, especially while trying to stay together as a group.

Our guide was adamant—we had to stick close to one another. This wasn’t just for safety from the rough conditions but also to minimize the risk of a tiger shark attack. In these deep waters, tiger sharks are known to prey on weak or isolated swimmers, and the last thing we wanted was to look like a straggling, vulnerable target.

The intensity of the moment was undeniable. We were tiny specks in an endless blue void, kicking against the waves, eyes darting in search of one of the ocean’s greatest creatures. The chase was on.

Me Swimming with Whales

Humpback Whale

A Suspended Moment in the Deep Blue

The visibility was endless, stretching far into the deep blue abyss—yet, no bottom was in sight. The vastness was both breathtaking and unsettling.

As we floated far from shore, I couldn’t ignore the lingering thought of tiger sharks. With nothing but open water beneath us, this was the kind of environment where a shark could easily stalk and ambush from below—a thought that sat heavy in the back of my mind.

After what felt like an eternity of swimming, we finally arrived where the mother and calf had been spotted. Our guide motioned for us to stop, signaling us to stay close together and still. He didn’t want us kicking too much—excessive movement could scare the whales away.

We bobbed with the rhythm of the ocean, rising and falling with each rolling wave, scanning the deep for any sign of movement.

Then, suddenly, our guide’s excitement spiked.

He pointed frantically below us.

I took a deep breath, turned my gaze downward—and there, emerging from the deep blue void, was an enormous shadow slowly rising toward us.

Mother and baby Whale

Face to Face with Humpback Whales

From the infinite blueness of the open ocean, the silhouettes of two whales—a mother and her calf—began to take shape. At first, their movement was deceiving, the lack of reference points in the vast water making it difficult to judge their size and speed.

But as they grew larger, they came closer than I ever expected. Within 30 feet of us, their immense presence was undeniable. For a moment, I thought we’d have to move out of their way—but just before reaching us, the whales effortlessly veered off to the side, passing us with quiet grace.

For the next 30 minutes, we floated in awe, watching them come and go, their massive bodies moving silently through the depths. It was a humbling experience—to be so close, yet so insignificant in the presence of these ocean giants.

Eventually, the constant motion of the waves began to take its toll. The bobbing and rolling started to make us feel seasick, and we also didn’t want to overstay our welcome or disturb the whales any more than necessary. Reluctantly, we swam back to the boat.

Swimming with Stingrays and Sharks

After our unforgettable encounter with the whales, we moved to an area teeming with stingrays, slipping back into the water to swim among them. The stingrays glided beneath us, their smooth, wing-like bodies rippling through the clear water as they curiously brushed against our legs.

Then, we set off to swim with blacktip reef sharks. Before jumping in, our guide gave us a single piece of advice:

“Whatever you do, don’t reach your hands out toward them—or they may bite you.”

With that comforting thought in mind, we slid into the water, surrounded by sleek, fast-moving sharks. They were completely uninterested in us, weaving through the water with an effortless elegance.

As we floated among them, a low, otherworldly sound filled the water—the melodic singing of humpback whales in the distance.

Hearing their haunting, beautiful calls echoing through the ocean, while swimming with sharks in crystal-clear Polynesian waters, was a moment I’ll never forget.

Swimming with Black tip Sharks, Moorea Island

Day 3: The Journey to Nuku Hiva

Our turboprop plane departed on time, and we began the long flight to Nuku Hiva, the largest of the remote Marquesas Islands. For most of the journey, nothing but endless blue ocean stretched out below us, a stark reminder of just how isolated this place truly is.

As we descended toward Nuku Hiva, the landing was rough—severe turbulence shook the plane as we battled strong, unrelenting winds blowing across the rugged, treeless northwest section of the island where the airport is located. The remoteness of the Marquesas became immediately clear.

Unlike most places, the airport isn’t near the main town. In fact, there are no towns near the airport at all. The only settlement, Taiohae, is on the opposite side of the island. But with Nuku Hiva’s dramatic volcanic terrain, there was simply no other flat land suitable for an airstrip.

This meant we still had a long journey ahead—but as we stepped off the plane onto one of the most remote islands in the world, I knew the adventure was only just beginning.

Our Plane to Nuku Hiva

Map of Nuku Hiva-the airport is in the north and town of Nuka Hiva the south

Arrival into Nuku Hiva from the hills above town

Arriving in Nuku Hiva: A Scenic Drive to Paradise

After landing at Nuku Hiva’s remote airport, we met our pre-arranged hotel transfer and set off on a winding, breathtaking two-hour drive through the island’s rugged interior to reach the only real town, Taiohae.

The journey was stunning, passing through dramatic highlands, deep valleys, and coastal cliffs. I was surprised to see pine forests in some of the higher elevations, a stark contrast to the lush rainforest covering the greener southern part of the island. The north, in comparison, was drier and more exposed, shaped by the powerful trade winds.

A Much-Needed Rest with a View

Still recovering from the long international flight and the turbulent domestic flight, we decided to take it easy for the night instead of venturing into town.

Our hotel was perched on a hill with a panoramic view of the bay, where anchored sailboats gently rocked in the harbor. I skipped the exploring and instead relaxed in the infinity pool, sipping a Nuku Hiva cocktail, watching the sunset cast golden hues over the water.

We stayed in individual thatched-roof bungalows, each with a private patio overlooking the bay. But my favorite feature? The shower. Standing under the warm water with a view of the endless Pacific, surrounded by the untouched beauty of the Marquesas, was an experience in itself.

That night, with the sounds of the ocean below and the jungle all around, I drifted off to sleep, ready to explore this wild, untamed island in the morning.

Infinity Pool at Our Hotel in Nuku Hiva

Day 4: Preparing for the Hukaui Valley Adventure

Waking up to another stunning morning in our hillside bungalow overlooking the bay, we packed our gear for the next leg of our journey—camping with a Marquesan family in the remote Hukaui Valley.

Before we could leave, however, there was one last pandemic-era ritual to complete—a self-administered COVID test. We dropped it off at the hotel, where they would send it to Papeete for analysis. By the time it even arrived in Tahiti, we would likely already be back in California.

I thought having Paula administer the test would make things easier, but she was just as rough with the swab as any nurse. At this point, we were used to it—this trip had been filled with constant COVID tests, swabs, and travel restrictions, but nothing was going to stop us from fully experiencing one of the most remote islands in the world.

With the test out of the way, we were finally ready to leave modern comforts behind and begin our trek into one of the most isolated valleys of the Marquesas.

Paula doing a covid test on Wes

Paula Standing on the Balcony of our Bungalow

The boat we took to arrive to Hakaui Vallley from Nuka Hiva.

The Fierce Legacy of the Marquesas: Warriors, Tattoos, and Cannibalism

Before the arrival of Europeans, the Marquesas Islands were home to a thriving population of around 100,000 people. However, disease, colonization, and forced cultural suppression devastated the islands, leaving the population at a mere 9,000 today.

The Marquesans were once one of the fiercest warrior cultures in the Pacific—proud, independent, and deeply spiritual. Tribal warfare was common, with warriors engaging in combat against rival clans to prove their strength and secure their land.

One of the most distinctive features of Marquesan culture is their intricate, full-body tattoos. Unlike other Polynesian groups, Marquesans covered nearly every inch of their skin in elaborate geometric patterns, signifying rank, accomplishments, and spiritual power. These tattoos weren’t just for decoration—they were a visual record of one’s identity, achievements, and lineage.

Perhaps the most notorious practice among the Marquesans was cannibalism. In warfare, captured enemies were not just killed, but consumed. This was done not out of hunger, but to absorb their mana—their spiritual power, wisdom, and strength. Consuming an enemy’s flesh was seen as a way to inherit their abilities and soul, making the victor even more powerful.

Though cannibalism was banned by missionaries and has long disappeared, the warrior spirit of the Marquesas lives on. Their art, tattoos, and cultural pride remain deeply ingrained, making the Marquesans one of the most fascinating and resilient Polynesian cultures in the world.

The arrival beach at Hukaui Valley because of its calm bay

The beach you walk to for 30 minutes from the arrival beach- Hukaui Valley

View of the lagoon and magical valley behind

Hakaui Valley: The Ghost Kingdom of the Marquesas

The Hakaui Valley was once the heart of one of the largest and most powerful kingdoms in the Marquesas Islands, home to thousands of people, including a royal family. Today, that era is long gone.

What was once a thriving civilization has been swallowed by the jungle. Only 10 to 20 people remain, living in scattered, ramshackle houses without electricity or plumbing. The ceremonial temples and royal structures that once stood proudly have been vanquished by nature, their remains hidden beneath thick vines and dense foliage.

Yet, traces of the past still linger. Beneath the jungle, buried ceremonial platforms once served as sacred spaces for offerings to family spirits and tribal gods. In some places, eerie stone pits can still be found—remnants of prison cells where captured warriors were held. Nearby, sacrificial altars stand as silent witnesses to the valley’s darker past, where warriors met gruesome executions in rituals meant to honor the gods and strengthen the victors.

Visiting Hakaui Valley feels like stepping into a lost world—a ghost kingdom frozen in time. The weight of history is palpable, with reminders of its former glory and brutality everywhere.

The valley’s isolation makes it even more mysterious. There are no roads leading here. The only way in is a long, grueling day hike over multiple mountain ranges or a treacherous two-hour boat ride through violent, unpredictable seas.

This raw, untouched remnant of the Marquesas’ past is one of the most hauntingly beautiful places in the Pacific, where nature and history intertwine in a way few places on Earth can match.

Traditional stone paths leading through the valley

Stone tiki along the path with ancestorial powers

Walking the Paths of the Marquesan Warriors

As we arrived at the Hakaui Valley, ancient stone paths stretched from the beach into the village and disappeared deep into the jungle’s interior. These paths, likely hundreds of years old, were once traveled by the Marquesan warriors and royalty.

Along the way, small stone mounds dotted the landscape, each topped with intricately carved tikis—sacred figures that watched over the land and its people. Some paths had been overtaken by the jungle, their surfaces covered in twisting vines and thick vegetation, while others were maintained by the villagers and still actively used for journeys into the interior.

Walking these paths was like stepping back in time. The giant stone slabs, worn smooth by centuries of footsteps, lay half-hidden beneath a tangle of vines and vibrant tropical flowers. Every step carried a sense of mystery and reverence, as if the spirits of the warriors and chiefs of the past still lingered among the trees.

There was something truly magical about it—to walk the same paths that Marquesan warriors once traveled, to feel the weight of history beneath my feet, and to be surrounded by the untamed beauty of the jungle. It was a rare and humbling experience, one that made me feel deeply connected to the ancient past of these islands.

A broken-down vehicle was abandoned in the village.  

A Stranded Relic of Modernity

Deep in the Hakaui Valley, among the remnants of an ancient kingdom, stood an unexpected sight—a broken-down vehicle, abandoned in the village.

The villagers had transported it by boat, a painstaking effort, in hopes that it would help carry goods from the beach along the long stone path to their homes. But the rough terrain and the remoteness of the valley proved too much—the vehicle soon broke down and was left to decay.

Now, it sat motionless, overtaken by moss, vines, and tropical flowers, a stark contrast against the jungle that had reclaimed it. A symbol of modern ingenuity failing against the forces of nature, it was a reminder that, in the Marquesas, the old ways still reign supreme.

Our homestay 

Vaipō Falls: The Tallest Waterfall in Polynesia

Deep in the heart of Hukaui Valley lies Vaipō Falls, the tallest waterfall in all of Polynesia. Reaching it requires an adventurous trek—a journey through dense rainforest, multiple stream crossings, and a final ascent into a dramatic canyon.

As we approached the narrowing canyon walls, they rose like towering cliffs above us, creating a sense of awe and isolation. Our guide cautioned us not to enter too far—falling rocks had claimed lives here before, making it one of the most dangerous places in the valley.

At the base of the falls, a tranquil pool shimmered beneath the misty spray. The actual waterfall was hidden behind massive boulders, blocking a full view of its staggering height.

We took a quick swim in the cool, refreshing waters, but didn’t linger. The sheer remoteness of the place, combined with the ever-present danger of falling rocks, made it feel like we were in a sacred, untamed corner of the world—a place that demanded both respect and caution.

Cliffs Around Vaipu Falls

Vaipu Falls-The water has been severely reduced due a lack of rain

Richard walking through the jungle

Rare Rainforest Tree Endemic to the Marquesas Islands

Vaipu Falls-The water has been severely reduced due a lack of rain

Walking through Vaipu Falls Canyon

Vaipu Falls pool

A Connection to Marquesan Royalty

Before the trip, I had stumbled upon a website selling traditional Marquesan woodcrafts, intricately carved pieces reflecting the ancient artistry of the islands. As I browsed, I noticed that the family behind the crafts lived deep in a remote valley on Nuku Hiva.

The head of the family, Tangy, owned a plot of land in the valley where he still lived, and remarkably, he was descended from Marquesan royalty. His story intrigued me, but what made it even more fascinating was his fiancée, Anna—a Croatian world traveler who had hitchhiked across the globe until she finally arrived in Nuku Hiva and into Tangy’s valley.

The two met when she showed up in his village, and they had been together ever since—a love story rooted in one of the most remote places in the world.

Curious to learn more, I reached out to them on Messenger, but weeks passed with no reply. Just when I thought I wouldn’t hear back, Tangy finally responded, and we began corresponding.

To my excitement, he welcomed us to stay with them for a few days, offering to show us the valley, share their way of life, and introduce us to the deep traditions of the Marquesas.

It was a rare opportunity—to not just visit Nuku Hiva, but to experience it through the eyes of a family rooted in its ancient past.

Tangy and his traditional face tattoos

Dining area of our homestay

Cursed Tiki

Paula and I in front of the Cursed Tiki

The Jungle: A Realm of Spirits and Warriors

For Tangy, the Marquesan jungle is more than just wilderness—it is a sacred, spiritual place where the spirits of his ancestors roam at night. Like many Marquesans, he takes rituals and ancestral ceremonies seriously, honoring the traditions of his people in a land where history still lingers in the trees and shadows.

Tangy is deeply passionate about his culture and maintains traditional beliefs that have been passed down for generations. He often disappears into the jungle for days at a time with his family, engaging in one of the last true warrior traditions left—hunting.

Modern Warriors of the Marquesas

While tribal warfare is long gone, the descendants of Marquesan warriors still channel their warrior spirit in a different way—hunting the ferocious wild pigs and goats that roam the jungle.

These hunts are not just for survival or sport but serve a deeper purpose. The pigs are invasive, wreaking havoc on the island’s fragile ecosystem by destroying native vegetation. But more than that, hunting them is a test of skill, bravery, and endurance.

Armed with only their knives and accompanied by their loyal dogs, Marquesan hunters like Tangy track these massive, powerful animals through the dense, unforgiving jungle. It is a dangerous pursuit, one that requires strength, instinct, and the kind of fearlessness that defined their ancestors.

In a world that has changed so much, this warrior tradition lives on, connecting Marquesans like Tangy to their past, their land, and the spirits of those who came before them.

The Entrance to the Sacred Valley

Wes Admiring Hakaui Valley

A Sacred Battlefield Hidden in the Jungle

Tangy led us deep into a valley that he considers the most sacred place in the Marquesas—a site of legend, bloodshed, and triumph.

Crossing the main river, we arrived at a narrow keyhole canyon, an unassuming passage that once played a pivotal role in Marquesan history. Centuries ago, this was the site of a great battle between rival Marquesan kingdoms.

As enemy warriors descended into the valley, the people of this land acted swiftly. The women and children were hidden inside the keyhole canyon, tucked away beyond the reach of the invaders. Meanwhile, the warriors of the valley took their stand at the entrance, prepared to defend their people with their lives.

What followed was a fierce and bloody battle—one that ended in victory for the valley warriors. The invading force was defeated, their ambitions crushed in the very place where we now stood.

Tangy made it clear that this was no ordinary place. Few outsiders—if any—had ever set foot here, and he wanted us to understand the gravity of what we were witnessing.

To be welcomed into this sacred ground, where spirits still lingered and history remained alive in the land, was a profound honor. The silence of the valley, the towering cliffs around us, and the weight of its past made it one of the most powerful places I have ever experienced.

Day 5: Farewell to the Hakaui Valley

On our final day in the valley, Tangy led us to more hidden sights, sharing even deeper stories about his homeland, traditions, and way of life. Both he and Anna welcomed us not just as visitors, but as friends, sharing their world with us in a way few travelers ever get to experience.

Eventually, it was time to say goodbye. They walked us back to the beach, where we waited for our boat pickup—hoping that it would actually show up. There was no cell service, no way to confirm, only trust in island time and the memory of our boat captain.

As the waves crashed against the shore, we took in one last view of this wild, beautiful, and sacred valley—a place that felt untouched by time. The cliffs loomed above us, the jungle hummed with life, and for a moment, it was hard to believe we were leaving.

When our boat finally arrived, we climbed aboard, bracing ourselves for the rough ride back across the open sea to Nuku Hiva. The high waves tossed the boat, a stark contrast to the peacefulness of the valley we had just left behind.

Back in Nuku Hiva, we returned to our hotel perched on the hillside, once again looking out over the bay where anchored sailboats swayed in the Pacific breeze.

The trip was coming to an end, but the experience of Hakaui Valley, its history, and the people we met would stay with us forever.

Day 6: Journey to the Remote Bay of Anaho

For our final day on Nuku Hiva, we decided to venture to one of the most secluded and untouched places on the island—Anaho Bay.

We hired a car and driver from the hotel and set off on a winding, single-lane road that snaked through the mountains, revealing stunning views of the island’s rugged peaks and deep valleys. After what felt like an eternity of switchbacks, we arrived at a remote dirt parking lot, the end of the road.

From here, the journey was far from over.

The Hike to a Hidden Paradise

To reach Anaho Bay, we had to hike up and over a steep mountain ridge, following an ancient footpath that had been used for centuries. At the top, we paused to take in the breathtaking view below—an untouched crescent of white sand, fringed by swaying palms, with turquoise waters stretching to the horizon.

From there, we began the descent down the rugged trail toward the beach, the sound of waves growing louder with each step.

The bay has no road access—the only way in is by foot or boat, making it one of the most pristine and isolated beaches in the Marquesas.

A Day in Island Paradise

Once on the powdery white sand, we spent the entire day lounging, snorkeling in the untouched coral reefs, and sipping fresh coconuts. The water was crystal clear, teeming with colorful fish, vibrant coral, and the occasional sea turtle drifting by.

Anchored offshore were a few sailboats, belonging to families traveling the world, living aboard their boats.

One family, with two young, sun-bleached-haired kids, was on a year-long sailing adventure. The parents had taken their children out of traditional school and were homeschooling them on the open sea—an upbringing unlike any other. Watching them run barefoot on the beach, swimming freely in the ocean, and learning from the world around them, it was hard not to admire their way of life.

A Perfect Farewell to Nuku Hiva

As the sun began to dip lower in the sky, we hiked back over the mountain to our waiting driver, our legs sore but our hearts full. It was the perfect way to end our time in the Marquesas—immersed in the raw, natural beauty that makes these islands so special.

That night, as we packed for our flight back home, I couldn’t help but reflect on how rare and magical this place was. Nuku Hiva, its untouched wilderness, its deep cultural roots, and its fiercely independent people, was a world apart from anywhere I had ever been.

And I knew, someday, I’d have to return.

View from hill of Bay of Anaho

Bay of Anaho

Bay of Anaho

Exploring an Abandoned Jungle Village

On our drive back to Nuku Hiva, we made an unexpected stop—an abandoned village, hidden deep in a jungle canyon just off the road.

Stepping into the overgrown ruins, we were immediately surrounded by giant banyan trees, their thick roots twisting over ancient stone walls, reclaiming what was once a thriving settlement. The air was thick with the smell of damp earth and vegetation, and the only sounds were the rustling leaves and the distant squawks of rare Marquesan pigeons perched in the canopy above.

Remnants of a Lost Kingdom

Scattered among the ruins were massive boulders, some carved with ancient figures, others shaped into the remains of old stone platforms. These weren’t just ordinary ruins—this was once a village for Marquesan royalty. The stone structures, worn by time and swallowed by the jungle, were once the centers of power and ceremony for a now-vanished kingdom.

But the most chilling discovery lay deeper in the village—the cannibal pits.

Into the Cannibal Pits

These deep stone enclosures were once prisons for warriors captured in battle. Here, they were held captive, awaiting their fate—ritualistic cannibalism.

Standing at the edge of the pits, imagining the brutal history that unfolded here centuries ago, was both eerie and awe-inspiring. The Marquesans had once been among the fiercest warriors in the Pacific, and this place was a stark reminder of their warrior traditions.

It was unlike any historical site I had ever visited—untouched, unmarked, and left to the jungle. The lack of tourist infrastructure made it feel even more powerful—raw, unfiltered history hidden beneath the vines.

As we left the ruins, winding our way back through the jungle, I couldn’t help but feel that the spirits of the past still lingered here, watching over what was once a great and mighty kingdom.

Me inside a pit used to keep captured warriors until they were cannabilized.

The Marquesan Pigeon: A Rare and Fierce Survivor

The critically endangered Marquesan Pigeon is a species that exists only in the wild on Nuku Hiva, making it one of the rarest birds in the world. But unlike the common pigeons seen in cities, this bird is no ordinary pigeon.

With its large, powerful build and intense, raptor-like stare, it looks more like a mix between a hawk and a crow than a typical pigeon. When it calls out from the jungle canopy, its harsh, crow-like cry echoes through the trees—a haunting sound that adds to its aura of mystery.

A Species on the Brink

Like so many native species of the Marquesas, the Marquesan Pigeon is disappearing, and the culprit isn’t natural selection—it’s invasive species brought by European settlers.

Over the years, rats, feral cats, and pigs—introduced by boats arriving on the islands—have ravaged native wildlife. These animals raid nests, prey on eggs, and destroy essential habitats, making it increasingly difficult for native species like the Marquesan Pigeon to survive.

Despite its powerful appearance, this rare jungle bird is fighting a losing battle, struggling against an ecosystem that has been forever altered. Seeing it in the wild, perched among the ancient ruins of a forgotten kingdom, was a reminder of how fragile and irreplaceable these isolated island ecosystems truly are.

Marquesan Pigeon 

Day 7: Leaving Paradise

I usually feel ready to return home at the end of a trip, but leaving Nuku Hiva was different. This place had gotten under my skin—it was wild, untamed, and truly paradise. It pained me to leave.

The journey home was grueling. We started with a two-hour drive across the island, winding through mountains, valleys, and misty jungle roads, back to the remote airstrip on the northern coast. From there, we boarded a four-hour domestic flight back to Papeete, Tahiti.

After a long layover, we endured an eight-hour overnight flight to Los Angeles, only to drive the final stretch back to San Diego.

By the time we arrived home, we had traveled across oceans, islands, and continents—all in one exhausting day. But no matter how far away I was, I knew that Nuku Hiva would stay with me. It was one of the most special and unforgettable places I had ever visited.