March 2008: The first time I visited Argentina, it was part of a larger journey to Antarctica-Antarctica-Crossing the Violent Seas of the Drake Passage to Visit the World’s Last True Wilderness, An Icy Paradise Where Penguins, Seals and Whales Have No Fear of Humans | Venture The Planet. I spent a week in the country, focusing primarily on Patagonia before wrapping up the trip with a couple of days in Buenos Aires.
About Argentina
Argentina is an immense country—seven times the size of California and the third most populous in South America, home to 44 million people. To me, it felt like a fascinating blend of Europe and South America, evident in its architecture, culture, and way of life. One of the most common sights was people drinking yerba mate, a traditional caffeine-infused tea sipped through a metal straw, a ritual deeply embedded in daily life.
The country’s landscapes are just as diverse as its culture. Argentina boasts massive glaciers, towering Andean peaks, and the vast, windswept Patagonian Steppe. It is also home to the tallest mountain in South America, Mount Aconcagua, which rises to an impressive 22,841 feet. Further south, the pristine forests and glacial lakes of Ushuaia serve as the last outpost before Antarctica, making it one of the most remote and breathtaking regions on Earth.
Map of my route in Argentina
Glacier Trekking
I spent a few days in El Calafate, a great base for trekking and exploring the wild landscapes of Patagonia. One of the biggest highlights of my trip was trekking on top of Perito Moreno Glacier in Glacier National Park. Strapping on crampons and walking across the living, moving glacier was an unforgettable experience. Up close, I could see deep crevices, shimmering ice caves, and pools of crystal-clear, icy water, all constantly shifting and reshaping before my eyes. It was one of the most surreal and awe-inspiring moments of my time in Argentina.
Perito Moreno Glacier
Me on Perito Moreno Glacier
One of the many crevice or glacier pools. We would drink the clear, pure water directly from the glacier with a straw and also use some of the ice in a whiskey drink after the trek was finished.
Glacier pool
My group climbing the glacier
The biggest risk on the glacier is falling into a crevice that could be hundreds of feet deep
Perito Moreno Glacier is also one of the best places in the world to witness glacier calving. Massive chunks of ice, some the size of houses, regularly break off from the glacier’s towering front and crash into the bay below. The thunderous roar of the ice collapsing, followed by the enormous splash and rippling waves, was a mesmerizing and humbling sight. Watching the glacier in constant motion, slowly advancing and reshaping itself, was a powerful reminder of nature’s raw and unstoppable forces.
Huge chunks of ice calving from the glacier
Huge chunks of ice calving from the glacier
From El Calafate, I took a long day trip to Torres del Paine National Park in Chile, often considered the crown jewel of Patagonia. The journey itself was an adventure—crossing the vast, desolate Patagonian Steppe, one of the most barren and remote landscapes I’ve ever encountered in my travels.
For hours, there were almost no towns or signs of human habitation, just endless open plains stretching to the horizon. The only movement came from scattered herds of sheep and the occasional rhea, an ostrich-sized wild bird roaming the steppe. The sheer emptiness of the land was striking, a reminder of just how untamed Patagonia truly is.
Tierra Del Fuego
Ushuaia
From El Calafate, I flew to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego, the southernmost city in the world and the gateway to Antarctica. My main reason for visiting was to embark on my expedition boat to Antarctica, but I quickly realized that Tierra del Fuego itself was a destination worth exploring.
The region, whose name means Land of Fire, was named by early explorers who saw the towering bonfires lit by the Indigenous people along the coastline. Ushuaia, the main town, felt completely different from the rest of Patagonia—here, dense forests, towering mountains, and glacial lakes replaced the barren steppe landscapes I had seen further north.
One of the best ways to explore the area is by taking a public bus directly into Tierra del Fuego National Park. From there, miles of beautiful hiking trails weave through pristine wilderness, offering stunning views of untouched nature at the edge of the world. It’s an experience not to be missed for anyone visiting Ushuaia.
Hiking to the top of a ridge in Tierra del Fuego National Park
Lake in Tierra del Fuego National Park
Hiking to the top of a ridge in Tierra del Fuego National Park
Ushuaia is also a great town to relax and enjoy its cozy restaurants and cafés. As the southernmost town on the continent and technically located on an island, it has a distinct feeling of isolation—like the last outpost before the end of the world.
Because of its remoteness, Ushuaia was once the ideal place for Argentina to build a high-security prison, where the country’s most dangerous criminals were sent in the early 1900s. Today, the old prison has been converted into a museum and is a fascinating tourist attraction, offering a glimpse into the harsh conditions prisoners endured in one of the most extreme environments on Earth.
Ushuaia Prison
Ushuaia Prison Cell
Buenos Aires
I spent my last few days in Argentina in Buenos Aires, one of the largest cities in South America, staying in the San Telmo district. I chose this area because I had heard it had a bohemian, laid-back atmosphere and was famous for its open-air tango dancing at night. That’s exactly what I found—locals gathering in the streets, dancing to live music under the glow of streetlights. The energy was infectious, and I loved every moment of it.
I rented a cheap apartment for a few nights, using it as a base to explore the district. San Telmo’s cobblestone streets, old colonial buildings, and vibrant nightlife made it the perfect place to soak in the unique charm of Buenos Aires before heading home.
Live music
Tango dancing in the streets of San Telmo