February 2018: Swimming and diving with the ocean’s greatest creatures has been a lifelong passion of mine, and I’ve scoured the world’s waters to encounter humpback whales, sperm whales, whale sharks, great white sharks, manatees, belugas, and more. Among them, hammerhead sharks—with their distinctive, almost alien-like appearance—fascinated me the most, and seeing one in the wild became a personal mission.
One of the best places in the world to find hammerheads is the Galápagos Islands-Independant Travel to the Galapagos Islands | Venture The Planet. I arranged a dive at Kicker Rock, a renowned hammerhead hotspot, via a day trip from San Cristóbal Island. Just as one appeared above me, my weight belt malfunctioned, sending me into a frantic struggle to retrieve it from the nearby reef before I shot uncontrollably to the surface. By the time I regained control, the hammerhead was gone. Missing that moment was a huge disappointment.
Years later, I discovered a place much closer to home where I could not only see a hammerhead but witness them in large numbers—Bimini, Bahamas. Located just 90 miles from Florida, Bimini is easily accessible by ferry or a short flight from Fort Lauderdale. The Bahamas, with its pristine white-sand islands, has outlawed shark fishing, making it one of the best places in the world to dive with sharks, including hammerheads, bull sharks, and tiger sharks. Bimini, in particular, is one of the top hammerhead diving spots on the planet, and this time, I wasn’t going to miss my chance.
About Bimini
Bimini, part of the Bahamas, lies just 50 miles from Miami. Once a British colony, the Bahamas is now an independent nation. During the Prohibition era, Bimini became a notorious bootlegging hideout, where gangsters smuggled rum into the United States. Some of the ships used in this illicit trade now rest as wrecks in the waters around Bimini, creating excellent snorkeling spots and thrilling places to jump into the crystal-clear sea.

Location of Bimini Islands/Bahamas
Diving with Hammerhead Sharks
The main reason I came to Bimini was the hammerhead sharks. Bimini is arguably the best place in the world to see giant hammerheads—the largest species of hammerhead sharks, which can grow up to 12 feet long. I booked my dive through the Bimini Dive Center a month in advance, knowing the experience was in high demand. To be safe, I scheduled an extra day in case of cancellations due to bad weather.
Hammerhead season runs from December to March, when the conditions are ideal. Outside of these months, the hammerheads migrate into the open ocean, leaving Bimini behind. The dive site itself is in 30-40 feet of water, just offshore over a sandy bottom within sight of the beach. The dive master brings a small bait box filled with fish parts to attract the sharks, while the divers sit in a half-circle up-current from where the scent of blood and fish guts drifts through the water.
While hammerheads are not known to attack humans, other sharks that join the feeding—such as bull and tiger sharks—are a different story. Bull sharks frequently prowl the edges of the site, looking for an opportunity to snatch leftovers. To keep them at bay, two additional divers stay behind the group, armed with plastic poles. A curious tiger shark is also often spotted lurking in the distance, watching the scene unfold. Meanwhile, nurse sharks—harmless but abundant—dart around the bottom. We were warned not to touch them, no matter how tempting it might be, because if one were to latch onto a diver’s hand, the only way to free it would be for the dive master to kill the shark with his knife.
Each diver was given two tanks, a PVC pole, and enough dive weights to stay firmly on the ocean floor. Because the water was relatively shallow, we had the opportunity to spend hours in the company of these magnificent sharks. On multiple occasions, I had to use my pole to gently tap a hammerhead that came barreling toward me, completely oblivious to my presence as it honed in on the bait with its mouth wide open.
But it wasn’t the hammerheads that worried me. No matter how hard I tried to stay aware of my surroundings, a bull shark would inevitably sneak up on me—especially during the ascent along the rope. Usually, turning to face them and extending the pole was enough to send them darting away. But bull sharks are not to be taken lightly. Known for their aggression, they are one of the most dangerous shark species in Florida, and keeping an eye on them was just as important as marveling at the hammerheads.

Me diving with hammerheads and the reflection of sharks in my goggles.

Hammherheads

Hammherheads

Hammherhead that came right at me veering away at the last second
Diving with Bull Sharks in a Cage
The Bimini Dive Center has a small shark cage attached to the dock in their marina. At first, I wasn’t sure why—until I noticed the massive 8-foot bull sharks constantly patrolling the marina, searching for fish scraps. It quickly became clear. Bull sharks are known to be aggressive, and there have been incidents where intoxicated individuals have fallen into the water at night, with tragic consequences.
The cage offers a unique underwater experience for non-divers, providing an air hose to the surface so participants can breathe freely while submerged a few feet below. It’s almost like snorkeling, but with a front-row seat to the action. Paula was reluctant at first, but she eventually agreed to go in with me. From inside the cage, we watched as multiple bull sharks circled, sizing us up. Some came uncomfortably close, their dark eyes locking onto ours as they glided by. It was an intense experience—thrilling, but also a stark reminder of why these sharks command so much respect.

Approaching bull shark

bull shark cage

Paula in bull shark cage
Other Things to Do In Bimini Island
We spent three nights in Bimini, and aside from the day I dedicated to diving with hammerheads, there was plenty to do. Our hotel, the Bimini Big Game Resort, was an older property with few bells and whistles, but it was in a great location—within walking distance of everything—and the most affordable option I could find.
Here’s what we did besides diving:
Renting a Golf Cart
Golf carts are the preferred mode of transportation on the island, so we rented one and explored Bimini from end to end. Cruising through the island’s small streets and scenic coastal roads made for a fun and laid-back way to take it all in.
Swimming with Dolphins
We booked a snorkeling trip to swim with wild dolphins—an incredible experience, though we quickly learned that dolphins are far faster than humans in the water. The boat sped through the open ocean until we spotted a pod, and once we got close, we were poised at the back, ready to jump in. As soon as we hit the water, the dolphins streaked past us like underwater lightning, vanishing in seconds. We were left bobbing in the open sea, scanning for any lurking sharks until the boat circled back to pick us up.
Snorkeling at a Reef and Shipwreck
This was a highlight of the trip. We snorkeled among small reef sharks, explored vibrant coral formations, and visited a sunken bootlegging boat from the Prohibition era. The wreck was ideal for climbing and jumping into the crystal-clear turquoise waters below.
Bar Hopping with Locals
I initially feared that, given its proximity to Florida, Bimini would be overrun with American tourists, leaving little local culture to experience. I was wrong. While some resort areas cater to tourists, our hotel was in a more authentic part of the island, where we found a thriving local bar scene. With rum being my drink of choice, I had no complaints. Paula even ended up dancing to reggae music with an old local man, which made for a great memory. Since everything was within walking distance, it was a fun and relaxed night out.
Exploring Historical Sites
Bimini has a few remnants of its past, including Prohibition-era buildings and cemeteries dating back to the 1800s. One overgrown graveyard sat right next to our hotel, and we stumbled upon it while wandering around. Another eerie landmark was the burned-down inn where Ernest Hemingway used to write his books. Sadly, the inn was destroyed in the early 2000s in a fire that also took the life of its owner.
Relaxing on the Beach
Right outside our window was a stunning, undeveloped white sand beach. Unlike many Caribbean destinations, this stretch of sand had no resorts and remained mostly empty, open to both locals and visitors alike. It was the perfect place to unwind and appreciate Bimini’s natural beauty.

Our golf cart

Inn that burned down where Ernest Hemingway would frequent

Old Graveyard

Abandoned old building

Shipwreck

Beach by our hotel

Beach by our hotel

Paula drinking our favorite coconut rum drink from local bar

Paula at sunset

Local bars we visited at night

Wrecked bootlegging boat from the Prohibition era that I jumped off into the water below
Bimini Island is a fantastic destination for a weekend getaway, and until now, it has largely managed to stave off the mega-resorts and massive cruise ships that have overrun so many other Bahamian islands. However, change is creeping in. On the opposite end of the island, large-scale resort developments are underway—generic buildings rising, mangroves being cleared, natural waterways dredged, and enormous piers constructed to accommodate cruise ships. Like all good things, Bimini’s untouched charm may not last forever.