November 2022: On a trip to South America, primarily to explore the Falkland Islands and Cueva de los Tayos in Ecuador, I also spent a few days in Buenos Aires, Argentina. From there, I visited Uruguay—my final South American country and one of the last United Nations-recognized countries on my journey to visit every nation in the world.
About Uruguay
Uruguay, a laid-back country with a fascinating history as a former Spanish colony, stands out as South America’s safest and richest country per capita. With its high standard of living, many of its citizens—some with blond, Germanic ancestry—give the country a distinctly European feel despite being firmly rooted in South America.
Uruguay is renowned for its beef, serving as a major global exporter, and has made significant strides in renewable energy and energy independence. I witnessed this firsthand along the Río de la Plata, where rows of wind turbines stretched miles offshore, capturing the wind to generate electricity. The country also boasts a reputation for being the least corrupt in the region.
One of the most compelling aspects of Uruguay’s character is embodied by its former president, José Mujica. A former revolutionary, Mujica was known for his humble lifestyle and principled leadership. He famously declared his only asset to be an old $1,000 Volkswagen Beetle, declined to live in the presidential mansion, and resided in a modest home. Remarkably, he donated the majority of his salary, earning the nickname “the world’s poorest president.”
Location of Colonia de Sacramento, Uruguay
Day 1: To reach Uruguay from Buenos Aires, I took a taxi from the Buenos Aires airport to the ferry terminal after arriving from Santiago, Chile. At the terminal, I navigated the long and tedious immigration process to exit Argentina and enter Uruguay while managing the crowds of fellow passengers. Despite the hassle, the ferry ride itself turned out to be quite enjoyable.
The ferry took about 1.5 hours to cross the Río de la Plata. While called a river, it’s actually a wide estuary of the Atlantic Ocean where the Paraná, Paraguay, and Uruguay rivers converge, depositing sediment that gives the water its distinctive brown, muddy appearance. The crossing was during a thunderstorm, making the ride rough and rocky, but the gentle sway of the waves—despite their occasional size—was surprisingly soothing, lulling me to sleep as we made our way to Uruguay.
One of the ferry boats that makes the crossing between Argentina and Uruguay everyday
View of the rough seas of the Rio de la Plata from my ferry to Coloni de Sacramento
Colonia de Sacramento
The colonial town of Colonia del Sacramento, founded in the 1600s, holds a rich history due to its strategic location along the Río de la Plata. Over centuries, it repeatedly changed hands between the Spanish and Portuguese during times of war, resulting in a unique blend of Portuguese and Spanish architectural styles.
Today, this small and charming town is renowned for its well-preserved, tranquil atmosphere, making it a popular weekend getaway for both Argentines and Uruguayans. During my ferry ride, I discovered that many of my fellow passengers were Uruguayans returning home from Argentina for the weekend, adding a local touch to the journey.
I arrived in Colonia del Sacramento on a rainy, dark evening, feeling a bit under the weather. Despite this, I was determined not to let it spoil my visit. As is my tradition whenever I arrive in a new place, I planned to explore by foot at night. However, first, I had to navigate the chaos of disembarking from the ferry. A mad exodus of passengers ensued, and I found myself swept into the tsunami of bodies, clawing my way to the exit.
Once I emerged, I expected to find all the taxis gone, leaving me to trudge the mile or so to my guesthouse in the rain. To my surprise, one taxi waited outside, seemingly as if it had been reserved just for me. For just $4 USD, it whisked me away, and when I handed the driver $5 and told him to keep the change, he warmly thanked me.
My room in the Governor’s Residence
My guesthouse exceeded all expectations. Set in a historic governor’s residence from the 1800s, it was perfectly situated on a quiet street next to a picturesque square and an old church. The house was small, quaint, and impeccably preserved, retaining its original charm without being overly remodeled. Its understated authenticity made it a wonderfully atmospheric place to stay.
Worried that it might be too late to find dinner by 10 p.m., I quickly remembered that in Argentina and Uruguay, late-night dining is the norm. Sure enough, I found a lively restaurant just around the corner from my guesthouse. Inside, the atmosphere was vibrant, with one table standing out in particular—a group of elderly women and one elderly man, seemingly celebrating his birthday. Their joyous toasts, complete with singing, were both entertaining and heartwarming.
I enjoyed a meal of fresh fish paired with a glass of local red wine before heading back to my room. Exhausted from the previous night of travel from the Falkland Islands, I settled in for a much-needed rest, feeling grateful for the warmth and vibrancy of Colonia.
Day 2: Despite promising myself a chance to sleep in, I couldn’t resist the pull of a new morning. The moment I heard the songbirds outside, I was up and ready to explore. By 6 a.m., I was out the door, eager to take in the quiet beauty of Colonia del Sacramento. I never let a good morning go to waste when discovering a new place.
The cobblestone streets of the colonial-era town were nearly deserted, allowing me to soak in its serene charm. I wandered through its quaint alleyways, capturing photographs of the beautifully preserved old buildings, each steeped in history. The stillness of the early morning, combined with the soft light of dawn, made the town feel like it belonged to another time—a perfect way to begin the day.
Lobby of the Governor’s Residence
Old church outside my bedroom window
Magical old chapel I walked into and had to myself with a pale beam of sunlight while angelic church music played somewhere in the background
Sprint Flowers
Banks of the Rio Plata River
Colonial Era Fortified Walls to protect the City
The city is famous for its variety of old wooden doors
Old cobblestone streets
Day 2: On the afternoon of my second day in Uruguay, I boarded the ferry for my return journey to Buenos Aires. After arriving, I spent one night in the vibrant Palermo District, enjoying its lively atmosphere and unique charm. The next day, I flew to Ecuador to meet my brother and friends, where we would embark on an exciting expedition into the mysterious Cueva de los Tayos cave.
Lighthouse from 1800’s I saw from my ferry as I departed back to Buenos Aries, Argentina
Feeling under the weather, I later discovered that my wife had contracted Covid, and I likely had it too. As a result, I didn’t do much during my brief stay in Buenos Aires. The highlight, or rather the most memorable part, was the terrifying taxi ride I took from the ferry port to my hotel.
The driver seemed to have no regard for safety or traffic laws. He sped through the busy streets, narrowly avoiding pedestrians and blowing through red lights at breakneck speeds. Each near-death experience was more shocking than the last, culminating in him nearly t-boning a car that suddenly cut in front of us. He slammed on the brakes, sending me lurching forward into the passenger seat, but he didn’t seem fazed. Without missing a beat, he continued speeding toward my hotel, only to drop me off right in the middle of a busy street. I didn’t care at that point—I was just relieved to be out of the car and safe.