November 2018: Sometimes I visit a region simply because I’m in the area, and it would feel like a shame not to at least pop over for a visit—just in case I never have the chance to return. That was exactly the case with Western Sahara.
I was in Mauritania to ride the iron ore train with my friend Richard-Hitchhiking on Top of a Mile Long Iron Ore Train Across the Sahara | Venture The Planet, and since we were so close, I couldn’t bear the thought of skipping Western Sahara entirely. Fortunately, continuing onward via Western Sahara was not only more convenient but also cheaper. Flights out of Mauritania are limited and expensive, whereas from Dahkla, it’s easy to connect to Casablanca—a major travel hub in Morocco—and then continue to other destinations. In fact, flying to Mogadishu, Somalia, from Dahkla was significantly more affordable than departing from Nouadhibou, Mauritania.
With that in mind, we decided to cross from Nouadhibou—the terminus of the iron ore train—to Dahkla, giving us two days and one night in Western Sahara. It wasn’t much time, but at least we would get a taste of the region rather than miss it entirely.
About Western Sahara
Western Sahara is a vast, arid expanse that lives up to its name, lying in the far west of the Sahara Desert. On the surface, it appears to be an empty wasteland, but beneath the sands lie untapped reserves of phosphates, offshore oil and gas, and rich marine fisheries.
Once a Spanish colony, Western Sahara became the center of a power struggle when Spain withdrew in 1975. Morocco to the north and the indigenous Sahrawi people, represented by the Polisario Front, both sought control, leading to a conflict that has continued ever since, claiming thousands of lives. Today, Morocco controls about 80% of the disputed territory and has constructed a fortified wall to separate Polisario-controlled areas. The vast desert between these opposing forces, as well as the borders of Western Sahara, has become one of the most heavily mined regions in the world.
Polisario-controlled areas are concentrated near the southeastern border, while Morocco controls the western sections, including Dahkla. To enter Western Sahara from Mauritania, we had to cross a lawless, desolate no-man’s-land—one of the most unique and surreal border crossings I’ve ever experienced.
Route I took across Western Sahara
A strip of land along the border of Mauritania and Western Sahara, brokered by the United Nations, was established as a buffer zone—a neutral, demilitarized area between the warring forces to allow for cross-border movement. However, sporadic clashes have still occurred within this so-called DMZ. Just months before our trip, the Polisario Front set up new checkpoints within the zone, demanding payments from travelers to pass through. This escalated into skirmishes with Moroccan forces, and the situation has remained tense ever since.
We entered the DMZ just 30 minutes before Mauritanian immigration closed for the day. Now in no man’s land, we were at the mercy of the taxi drivers waiting on the other side to shuttle travelers the short but treacherous distance to Moroccan immigration. The DMZ has no paved roads, only a rough, narrow crossing area that is said to have been cleared of landmines. Still, active mines remain scattered throughout the region, making straying from the established path a deadly mistake.
Our ride was a battered, rusted sedan that looked like it had survived decades of hard use. The driver navigated the rough terrain like a seasoned pro, weaving through a labyrinth of deep ruts, sand pits, and twisted, wrecked vehicles—many of which had clearly been stripped for parts. This lawless stretch of land is known to be a haven for smuggling, with stolen cars, weapons, and other illicit goods freely traded in the absence of any real authority.
As we passed makeshift houses and groups of people wandering through the DMZ, I later learned that many of them were migrants attempting to reach Europe or Sahrawi refugees caught in the limbo of this disputed territory. It was a surreal and unsettling place—one of the most bizarre and lawless border crossings I’ve ever experienced.
No mans land-abandoned cars
No mans land
Our driver suddenly stopped the car, leaving me momentarily on edge. In a lawless border zone like this, the possibility of being set up for a robbery was a valid concern. But in Spanish, the man casually explained that he just needed to take a piss. Relieved, I took the opportunity to step out and do the same, taking in the surreal surroundings—an eerie landscape straight out of a Mad Max post-apocalyptic movie. I didn’t dare wander far, wary of the landmines still lurking beyond the so-called demined path.
After another 20 minutes of rough driving, we finally reached Moroccan immigration and officially crossed into Western Sahara, which Morocco occupies and administers. We negotiated a price with a taxi driver for the four-hour journey to Dahkla. Almost immediately, towering murals of the Moroccan king lined the highway—an unmistakable reminder of who controls the region.
Giant billboard of King of Morocco
The road to Dahkla was desolate—vast stretches of nothingness with few towns and absolutely no defining land features. Breaking down out here would be a nightmare, so I made a conscious effort to stay on the good side of our driver, who was giving off some unsettling vibes. He only spoke Spanish and made it clear that he was a proud Sahrawi with no love for Morocco. As he drove, he frequently rolled down his window to smoke cigarettes, seemingly lost in his thoughts.
My friend in the back seat politely asked him to stop smoking, but the driver ignored him. When my friend insisted, tensions boiled over into a shouting match. The two exchanged aggressive pejoratives, and I grew increasingly anxious about the possibility of being dumped on the side of the road in the middle of the desert. I did my best to diffuse the situation, hoping we could at least make it to Dahkla without further incident.
After what felt like an eternity, we finally arrived in Dahkla in the dark. The moment the taxi came to a stop—luckily not far from our hotel—our driver and my friend could no longer contain their frustration. Sensing the situation was about to escalate, we quickly jumped out of the car. I had the money ready and paid the driver on the spot before we walked off, leaving the argument behind.
We made our way to our hotel, where we finally sat down for a much-needed late dinner, soaking in the unmistakably Moroccan ambiance of coastal Dahkla.
Endless road to Dahkla
I woke up early in the morning to explore Dahkla, eager to catch the sunrise and watch the full moon set over the Atlantic Ocean. My destination was a Spanish colonial-era lighthouse on the outskirts of town, perched atop a desolate stretch of sandstone cliffs. The site had a dark history—it was once used as a prison for Sahrawi dissidents during colonial rule.
As I approached, I noticed the lighthouse was guarded by a vicious pit bull, pacing aggressively near the entrance. The rugged coastline below was battered by waves, adding to the eerie solitude of the place. Standing there, watching the moon fade as the first light of day stretched across the horizon, I couldn’t help but reflect on the layers of history embedded in this remote and contested land.
Moonset over Dahkla
Seacliffs by lighthouse
Spanish colonial era lighthouse
Spanish colonial era lighthouse
In the afternoon, we boarded a domestic flight from Dahkla to Casablanca. Since Morocco considers Western Sahara to be part of its territory, there was no need to go through immigration. From Casablanca, we continued our journey onward to Somalia-A Visit to One of the Most Dangerous Cities in the World-Mogadishu, Somalia | Venture The Planet.
As for Western Sahara, if I ever return, I’d love to visit the other side of the wall—the Sahrawi-controlled territory. However, accessing it safely would require traveling through Algeria and coordinating with local contacts. It remains one of the least-visited and most politically sensitive regions in the world, making it all the more intriguing for a future adventure.