September 2018: Hiking China’s Wild Great Wall
The Great Wall of China—a staggering ancient structure built by emperors and warriors, stretching thousands of miles across deserts, mountains, and valleys until finally reaching the sea—is unquestionably one of the planet’s most extraordinary sights. Constructed between the 7th century BC and the 1600s, it was meant to protect the Chinese Empire from northern invasions, but today it stands as a powerful reminder of history and human ambition.
Yet, despite its fame, most visitors only see small, carefully restored sections crowded with tourists, souvenir stalls, and selfie sticks. Few realize that the vast majority of the Great Wall remains wild, unrestored, and untouched, hidden deep in remote and rugged terrain.
On a brief two-day layover in Beijing with friends, en route to Kamchatka, Russia, I decided to skip the touristy spots. Having already visited two restored sections previously, this time I wanted the raw, authentic experience. Short on time but determined, I arranged a driver and guide to take us hiking along a spectacular yet completely unrestored portion of the Wall—far away from the crowds and camera flashes.
As we trekked the wild, crumbling ramparts, climbing overgrown watchtowers and stones reclaimed by centuries of nature, the true spirit of the Great Wall came alive. Here, history wasn’t polished or sanitized—it was rugged, weathered, and honest. We could feel its age in every step we took along pathways few travelers ever get to see.
Had I more time, I would have spent weeks exploring these untouched stretches. But even with just one day, hiking the wild Great Wall was an unforgettable adventure.
Location of the wild section of the Great Wall
My First Encounter with the Great Wall – Badaling, 1995
My very first glimpse of the Great Wall of China was back in 1995 at the famous—and quite touristy—Badaling section. At 18 years old, standing atop the towering ramparts of this ancient wonder was nothing short of a dream come true.
Though crowded with tourists and vendors, I still vividly remember the thrill of walking those steep, restored stone pathways for the first time. As I stood there, gazing at the wall stretching endlessly across the mountain ridges, I felt an incredible sense of awe—realizing I was finally experiencing something I had only imagined for so long.
Touristy Section of Wall-Badaling in 1995
My friend Bob and I –Touristy Section of Wall-Badaling in 1995
2005: Having the Great Wall of China to Ourselves at Simatai
Ten years after my first visit, I returned to the Great Wall of China on another quick layover in Beijing—this time, en route to North Korea. Along with a few friends, we hired a taxi and made our way to Simatai, another restored but stunningly scenic section.
We arrived late in the day, just as the guards were closing up and tourists were filtering out. Thanks to our perfect timing (or maybe sheer luck), we found ourselves alone atop the ancient wall as the sun began setting. The silence was surreal—the bustling crowds were gone, and we had the entire stretch of the Great Wall practically to ourselves.
Standing on the Wall at twilight, with the mountains bathed in a golden glow and the wall winding dramatically into the distance, was truly a magical moment—one of those rare experiences that stays with you forever.
This brief yet memorable encounter was part of a much bigger adventure: becoming one of the first American tourists allowed into North Korea since the Korean War. (You can read about that experience in my other post: Visiting North Korea As One Of The First American Tourists Since The Korean War | Venture The Planet.)
Simatai
Jiankou Unrestored Section of Wall
Off the Grid: Hiking the Forbidden Great Wall
To arrange our adventure on the wild, unrestored section of the Great Wall, I found a local fixer who organized a vehicle, driver, and guide to take us deep into the mountains to the tiny village of Xizhazi—the gateway to our hike.
At the trailhead, a large, official-looking sign warned that this section of the wall was closed and entry was unlawful. Yet our fixer reassured us this rule wasn’t strictly enforced—as long as a small fee was paid to the villagers. With a nod and some yuan exchanged, we began our trek.
Our guide casually slung a backpack over his shoulder—not loaded with water as expected, but instead full of bottles of Tsingtao beer for the hike. I raised an eyebrow at this unusual choice of hydration, but we followed along nonetheless.
The trail quickly proved to be steep, rocky, and relentlessly uphill. Our group, exhausted from a grueling overnight flight from Tijuana, struggled with every step. Jet-lagged and dehydrated, the difficulty of the climb hit us immediately.
Yet, with every hard-earned step upward, we knew we were on the brink of something special—a hidden section of the Great Wall, waiting just beyond the ridge.
Jiankou Unrestored Section of Wall
Jiankou Unrestored Section of Wall
Me at Jiankou Unrestored Section of Wall
Wes climbing into a tower
Jiankou Unrestored Section of Wall
Me posing with a Chinese lady as the request of her boyfriend for a photo with her
From Beijing to Kamchatka: Bears, Orcas, and Volcano-Hopping in Russia’s Wild East
After our whirlwind hike along the wild sections of the Great Wall, we departed Beijing and flew directly to one of the most remote, untouched wildernesses on Earth—Kamchatka, Russia.
For the next week, we rafted down rivers teeming with grizzly bears, chased pods of killer whales along the rugged coastline, and hopped between active volcanoes aboard a vintage Soviet-era military helicopter. It was a journey of pure adventure in Russia’s breathtaking Far East.
Eventually, our wild week came to an end, and we found ourselves back in Beijing once again, squeezing in another short layover before heading home to the United States.
You can read more about our Kamchatka adventure here: Kamchatka River Rafting Among Grizzly Bears, Chasing Killer Whales, and Volcano Hopping in a Soviet-Era Military Helicopter | Venture The Planet