Bizarre Turkmenistan and Camping Next to the So-Called Doorway to Hell-Darvaza Gas Crater

Turkmenistan: A Journey into One of the World’s Most Isolated Countries

In September 2010, I set out to visit one of the most unusual and secretive nations on Earth—Turkmenistan. Often called the North Korea of Central Asia, Turkmenistan remains politically and geographically isolated, ruled by leaders who have built near-divine cults of personality, including the infamous Turkmenbashi.

Given its closed nature, getting a visa was no easy task. For most travelers, entry is only possible through a pre-arranged tour with a government-approved travel agency, which can be expensive. To offset costs, I organized a small group of co-travelers—two from Sweden and one from England—via the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree forum.

Flying into Ashgabat

We met in Istanbul, Turkey, and from there, flew into Ashgabat, Turkmenistan’s surreal capital, to begin our weeklong adventure. What followed was an unforgettable journey through one of the strangest and most enigmatic countries I have ever visited.

Location of Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan: A Land of Dictators, Desert, and Silk Road History

Turkmenistan is a desert nation of ethnic Turkmen people, positioned in a tough geopolitical neighborhood, bordered by Afghanistan, Iran, and Uzbekistan. Since gaining independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, it has been ruled by power-hungry dictators, ensuring that Turkmenistan remains one of the most isolated and authoritarian countries in the world.

A Nation Controlled by an Iron Grip

• The country’s first leader, Saparmurat Niyazov, famously declared himself Turkmenbashi (Father of all Turkmen) and ruled with an iron fist until his death in 2006.
• His successor, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov, continued totalitarian rule, ensuring government control over all aspects of life.
• Turkmenistan’s vast natural gas reserves, among the largest in the world, allow the government to subsidize daily necessities, keeping the population economically dependent and less likely to resist.
• The Ministry of National Security (KNB) closely monitors its citizens, ensuring political dissent is crushed before it can spread.

A Silk Road Crossroads & Land of Warrior Nomads

Despite its modern isolation, Turkmenistan was once a key stop along the Silk Road, home to great ancient cities like Merv, the former capital of the Great Seljuk Empire.

• Merv and other Silk Road cities provided safe havens for passing caravans, shielding them from hostile desert bandits.
• The Turkmen nomads had a ferocious reputation as warriors, feared by traders and travelers who ventured through the unforgiving Karakum Desert.

In many ways, Turkmenistan’s history—from its fearsome nomadic past to its modern-day authoritarian rule—reflects a nation accustomed to secrecy, survival, and self-reliance.

The Legacy of Turkmenbashi: A Dictator’s Cult of Personality

From the early 1990s until his death in 2006, Saparmurat Niyazov, known as Turkmenbashi (Leader of the Turkmen), ruled Turkmenistan with absolute power, creating a cult of personality that rivaled the Kim Dynasty of North Korea.

Under his rule, freedom of speech, press, and personal expression were nonexistent. His bizarre and often impulsive decrees reshaped daily life, culture, and even the calendar to reflect his own ego and personal whims.

Turkmenbashi’s Most Absurd Policies & Decrees

• Renamed the months of the year and days of the week after his family members and childhood events.
• Wrote a book called the Ruhnama, which he declared “more important than the Quran.” Every student, government official, and job applicant was required to study it.
• Erected gold-plated statues of himself, including a massive rotating statue that always faced the sun.
• Rebuilt Ashgabat almost entirely in white marble, turning it into a surreal, ghostly capital.
• Banned lip-syncing, dogs in the capital, and car radios.
• Renamed bread after his mother.
• Closed all hospitals outside of Ashgabat, forcing rural citizens to travel to the capital for medical care.
• Banned smoking after quitting himself following heart surgery.
• Outlawed opera and other activities he deemed “un-Turkmen.”
• Prohibited men from growing beards or long hair.
• Mandated that only clean cars were allowed in Ashgabat.

Traces of Turkmenbashi’s Rule in Ashgabat

Despite his death in 2006, remnants of Turkmenbashi’s rule still dominate Ashgabat today. As I explored the capital, I witnessed:

• His grandiose white marble city, eerily empty yet opulent beyond belief.
• Giant gold statues of himself, standing like monuments to a forgotten empire.
• The Ruhnama still present in some public spaces, a relic of forced ideological indoctrination.

Turkmenistan remains one of the most isolated and secretive nations on Earth, but the ghost of Turkmenbashi continues to loom over its capital and its people—a testament to how absolute power can reshape an entire country in the image of one man’s delusions.

20′ tall gold plated statue of the Turkmenibashi

Giant Replica of the Turkmenibashi’s Book, thee Ruhnama.  

The Ruhnama: Turkmenbashi’s Book of Propaganda

One of the most bizarre remnants of Turkmenbashi’s rule is the giant replica of the Ruhnama, his self-written book of propaganda that dictated Turkmen history, etiquette, and culture—according to him.

I managed to bring home a copy, and it now sits proudly on my bookshelf, a surreal memento from one of the most eccentric dictatorships in history.

A Book Sent to Space & Forced into Daily Life

• The Ruhnama was translated into hundreds of languages and even sent into outer space, symbolizing Turkmenbashi’s delusional self-importance.
• It was mandatory reading for all students, government workers, and military personnel.
• Citizens were forced to answer questions about it to obtain a driver’s license.
• The book was worshipped like a holy text, with government officials reciting passages from it in ceremonies.

Walking through Ashgabat, I saw massive monuments dedicated to this book, a physical representation of Turkmenbashi’s total control over Turkmen life. Though he’s long gone, the Ruhnama remains a relic of an era where one man’s ego dictated an entire nation’s reality.

Base of the giant 50′ rotating gold statue of the Turkmenibashi that rotates with the sun. The new leader, Berdimuhamedow has dismantled it and according to rumor is building a statue of himself in its place.

Statue of Turkmenisbashi as a baby on top of the Earth that is on top of a Huge Bull

The Rise of President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow: A New Cult of Personality

After Turkmenbashi’s death in 2006, his immediate successor was mysteriously arrested, paving the way for President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow to take control. Initially, he promised reform, repealing some of Turkmenbashi’s strangest decrees and removing many of his statues. However, by the time of my visit—three years into his rule—it was clear that democracy was not on the horizon. Instead, Berdimuhamedow had begun building his own cult of personality, following eerily in Turkmenbashi’s footsteps.

A New Dictator, Same Old Tactics

• Mandatory murals and statues of Berdimuhamedow were erected all over the country by law.
• He styled himself after the Kim Dynasty of North Korea, staging ridiculous public events where he always emerged victorious.
• He was declared a champion in horse racing, race car driving, cycling, and other displays of masculinity, despite clearly staged victories.

Some of the Most Absurd Tributes to Berdimuhamedow I Witnessed:

1. Golden statues of himself on horseback, reminiscent of Turkmenbashi’s infamous rotating sun statue.
2. Massive murals of him “heroically” leading the Turkmen people, placed on government buildings and public squares.
3. Videos playing on public screens showing his “triumphant” victories in races and competitions.
4. His image on national TV, newspapers, and even school materials, portraying him as a near-divine figure.

Despite the promises of reform, it was obvious that Berdimuhamedow was simply replacing one dictatorship with another, proving that Turkmenistan’s cycle of authoritarianism was far from over.

Giant Mural of President Gurbanguly Outside of a Mosque

Portrait of president Gurbanguly on Wall in Economy Class of my Turkmen Domestic Flight to Mary  

A Museum dedicated to the history of Turkmenistan with a floor dedicated to Presdient Gurbanguly. Comical portraits that look superimposed of the president engaged in numerous sports, and  flattering poses were porudly on display. 

President Gurbanguly, the Yachtsman

President Gurbanguly, the race car driver

Ashgabat: The White Marble Showcase City

Both Turkmenbashi and President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow have dedicated themselves to making Ashgabat a showcase capital, transforming it into a surreal, gleaming metropolis of white marble. Originally rebuilt after a devastating earthquake, Ashgabat today holds the Guinness World Record for the highest density of marble-clad buildings in the world.

A City of Two Realities: The Old & The New

• The old city is where most Turkmen people actually live—a place of markets, homes, and normal city life.
• The new city is a near-empty artificial ghost town, eerily immaculate and devoid of real life, resembling the hollow, staged cities of North Korea.

A Sterile, Ultra-Controlled Capital

• Wide boulevards with few cars, making it feel abandoned yet meticulously maintained.
• Perfectly trimmed green parks with massive, elaborate fountains that seem more for display than for people.
• Massive, glittering white marble buildings, making the city look like an eerie, lifeless architectural model.

Entering Ashgabat: Even Your Car Must Be Spotless

Upon arriving, we had to pass through a police checkpoint—but not just for security. Officials inspected vehicles for cleanliness, ensuring only spotless cars were allowed into the pristine city. A conveniently placed car wash stood right next to the checkpoint, in case a traveler’s car wasn’t clean enough to enter.

Ashgabat was a city built for appearances, a propaganda project designed to impress foreign visitors while masking the reality of daily life in Turkmenistan—a place that looked grand on the surface, yet felt utterly lifeless beneath its marble sheen.

New City of Ashgabat

Turkmenistan: A Nation Cut Off from the World

With one of the lowest human rights ratings in the world, Turkmenistan is both politically and economically isolated. Unlike most countries, where globalization has brought Western brands to even the most remote corners, Turkmenistan remains a world apart—a place where Western corporate influence is nearly nonexistent.

No Global Brands, No Western Chains

During my visit, I didn’t see a single Western restaurant, retail chain, or recognizable brand. Even Coca-Cola, which has managed to penetrate almost every country on Earth, was nowhere to be found. Instead, Turkmenistan has its own state-approved version of Coke—”Turkmen Cola”.

Turkmen Cola

A Soviet-Era Hotel in the Surveillance State

We stayed in a Soviet-era hotel in Ashgabat, one of the few hotels where foreigners were allowed. Despite its aging infrastructure, the hotel was not cheap—a reflection of Turkmenistan’s high costs for foreigners, where everything except fuel comes at a premium.

There were persistent rumors that foreign guests’ rooms were bugged. Travel writer Paul Theroux, during his own visit, was interrogated by intelligence officers and claimed that his room was under surveillance. Given the country’s authoritarian grip, I made sure to speak cautiously, even in the supposed privacy of my hotel room—one can never be too sure in a place like Turkmenistan.

Exploring the City: A Carefully Staged Celebration

From our hotel, we ventured into Ashgabat, where a large public celebration was taking place. Performers in traditional Turkmen attire marched through the streets, singing and dancing in choreographed routines.

The government’s push to eradicate Western influence was evident in how cultural traditions were heavily promoted, ensuring that Turkmen identity remained distinct and state-controlled. While the celebration was visually captivating, it felt more like a carefully staged event for propaganda purposes rather than an organic display of national pride.

Turkmenistan’s commitment to cultural preservation is admirable, but in a country where freedom of expression is nonexistent, even something as simple as a parade feels orchestrated for the eyes of the regime.

Statue of Prominent Historical Turkmen Figure in a Ashgabat Park with Multi-Colored Fountains

Random Parade in Ashagabat

Exploring Ashgabat: A Rare Glimpse into Everyday Life

In Ashgabat, my friends and I mostly explored the city on our own, often without a guide. Despite Turkmenistan’s strict surveillance culture, we never encountered any issues—though we were always aware that watchful eyes could be anywhere.

A Camera-Shy Culture

One of the strangest observations was how people at the markets were highly suspicious of cameras. Unlike other parts of the city, where people were flattered to be photographed, market vendors and shoppers were exceptionally wary—perhaps a consequence of state paranoia or fear of being caught in unauthorized activities.

Meeting the Turkmen People

Outside the markets, everyone we met was kind and curious. Since tourists are so rare, most locals seemed surprised to see foreigners wandering around.

One of the most striking cultural observations was the traditional school uniforms worn by female students—a red Turkmen dress paired with a colorful embroidered hat. Whenever I asked for a photo, the girls would giggle and happily agree, amused by the attention.

No Facebook, No Global Connectivity

A small group of Turkmen students we met spoke English and were eager to chat, intrigued by why we had chosen to visit their secretive country. Out of curiosity, I asked if they had Facebook—only to be met with blank stares. They had never even heard of it.

Instead, we exchanged emails, a rare and humbling reminder of Turkmenistan’s extreme isolation from the outside world. In a country where the internet is heavily restricted and Western social media is completely banned, most Turkmen have little to no exposure to the global digital landscape.

Turkmen Female Students in their uniforms 

Turkmen Female Student

Turkmen Student

Getting Around Ashgabat at Night: The City of Silent Streets

In Ashgabat, my friends and I quickly discovered that any car could be a taxi. Instead of waiting for an official cab, we would simply wave down any passing vehicle, tell the driver where we wanted to go, and negotiate a price. This informal taxi system seemed to be widely accepted, and we never had trouble finding a ride—a surprisingly efficient way to navigate the city.

A City Without a Nightlife

Despite Ashgabat’s glitzy white marble buildings and extravagant fountains, nightlife was practically nonexistent. We searched for bars or nightclubs, but found nothing. The streets were eerily empty, with little sign of social activity after dark—a stark contrast to most other capital cities around the world.

Kebabs & Questionable Live Music

With no bars or clubs, we usually ended our nights at a kebab shop, which seemed to be one of the only late-night options. In one instance, we stumbled upon a place with live music, which we hoped would add some excitement to the evening.

Unfortunately, the music was anything but entertaining—more of an awkward background noise than an actual performance. Still, in a country where entertainment options are limited and the government keeps tight control over social activities, it was one of the few glimpses of nightlife we could find.

Ashgabat by night was a ghost town, a city that looked grand and futuristic on the surface, but felt empty and controlled beneath the marble exterior.

Ashgabat Nightlife

The Horse Racing Stadium: Ashgabat’s Most Lively Scene

Among the many surreal experiences in Turkmenistan, the horse racing stadium in Ashgabat stood out as the most energetic and uninhibited. In a country known for its meticulously controlled environment and empty, grandiose avenues, this was one of the few places where genuine excitement and passion broke through the surface.

A National Obsession

Horse racing is deeply ingrained in Turkmenistan’s national identity, with the prized Akhal-Teke horses regarded as a source of immense pride. The stadium, funded entirely by the government, served two main purposes: to celebrate Turkmen horse culture and to provide young men with an outlet for gambling and entertainment. Unlike most events in the country, admission was completely free, ensuring that thousands of men and boys could pack the stands, cheering wildly for their chosen horses.

A Race Fit for a Dictator

Even here, Turkmenistan’s authoritarian grip was undeniable. The stadium wasn’t just a place for horse racing—it was also a stage for the country’s leader, President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, to showcase his supposed equestrian prowess. Whenever he raced, he would, without fail, be declared the champion. A massive mural of the president loomed over the stadium, reinforcing his dominance over every facet of Turkmen life—even the outcome of horse races.

Chaos in the Stands

As the horses lined up at the starting gate, the anticipation in the stadium was palpable. The moment the race began, pandemonium erupted—men and boys screamed, jumped, and gestured wildly, their emotions boiling over as they rooted for their picks. The sheer intensity of the crowd was something I hadn’t seen anywhere else in Turkmenistan.

For the lucky few who placed their bets on the winning horse, the rewards were both monetary and cultural. The champion horse was adorned with an exquisite handmade Turkmen carpet, a tradition that symbolized both the prestige of victory and the deep, historical bond between the Turkmen people and their horses.

A Rare Glimpse of Raw Emotion

In a country where public displays of enthusiasm are rare, the horse racing stadium was a bizarre but fascinating contrast. It was one of the few places in Ashgabat where people were allowed to fully express themselves, if only for the duration of a race. Watching the unrestrained chaos of the crowd against the backdrop of an otherwise sterile and highly controlled city was a surreal yet unforgettable experience.

Turkmen Horse Racing

Crazed Fans Placing Wagers on Their Winning Horse

President Gurbanguly mural on his champion horse proudly displayed in the center of the horse track

The winning horse adorned with the championship Turkmen carpet

Photography in Turkmenistan: A Game of Caution and Paranoia

In Turkmenistan, a country ruled by a highly paranoid government, photography is not just a casual activity—it’s a risk. The state constantly surveils its citizens, and foreigners with cameras are viewed with suspicion.

What NOT to Photograph

It was clear that taking photos near checkpoints or government buildings was strictly off-limits—a surefire way to get detained or questioned. However, I quickly learned that other, less obvious locations were also forbidden:

• Gas stations – A gas station attendant warned me not to take photos, though I was never given a proper explanation as to why. Perhaps fuel supply points are considered strategic assets?
• Some marketplaces – While many people were friendly, in certain markets, I faced strong opposition from bystanders just for holding a camera. It was as if marketplaces were considered sensitive areas, though the reasoning remained unclear.

A Mix of Reactions

Outside of these “restricted” areas, most ordinary Turkmen people were surprisingly open to photography. Many were excited and even flattered to have their portraits taken, especially in more casual settings.

Despite the restrictions, I managed to sneak a few marketplace photos, and some locals even posed willingly. It was a strange contradiction—in some areas, cameras were met with hostility, while in others, people welcomed the chance to be photographed.

In a country where secrecy and surveillance rule daily life, even the simple act of taking a photo becomes an exercise in careful navigation—a delicate balance between capturing moments and avoiding unnecessary trouble.

Man working inside a store where we stopped to by snacks 

Smiling woman selling wares in a market

Friendly woman I met in a a market

Turkmenistan’s Most Fascinating Market: Camels & Carpets

Outside Ashgabat, we visited a chaotic camel market where belligerent camels were traded, loudly protesting as they were hoisted onto trucks by cranes. Traders haggled aggressively, creating a scene of shouting, braying, and general mayhem.

Nearby, the carpet market showcased stunning handwoven Turkmen carpets, famous for their deep red hues and intricate geometric patterns. However, factory-made Chinese imitations were also sold alongside the genuine pieces.

The market offered a striking contrast—the wild nomadic past seen in the camel trade versus Turkmenistan’s rich artistic heritage reflected in its carpets.

Camel Market

Carpet Market

Beyond Ashgabat: Visiting Nokhur Village

Leaving Ashgabat, we passed multiple police checkpoints, where our passports and visas were thoroughly checked. Most tourists visit on a transit visa, which is easier to obtain but highly restrictive, limiting travel outside the capital. Since I wanted to explore more of the country, including the Darvaza Gas Crater, I secured a notoriously difficult-to-obtain tourist visa—made possible through a well-connected Turkmen travel agency.

A Journey into Rural Turkmenistan

We drove for several hours on dirt roads to reach Nokhur, a remote mountain village where I had arranged a homestay to experience authentic countryside life.

Along the way, we passed unique graveyards, where tombstones were adorned with wild mountain goat horns. Locals believe the spirit of the goat helps guide the deceased to heaven.

Life in Nokhur: A Glimpse into Rural Simplicity

• Modest village life – Homes had no plumbing, relied on outhouses, and villagers grew their own food.
• Excess gas flared off – With natural gas free in Turkmenistan, we saw uncapped gas pipes in homes, casually burning off excess gas.
• Warm hospitality – Our host family was incredibly kind. The mother cooked traditional meals, which we ate sitting on the floor on carpets, sharing tea.
• Sleeping arrangements – At night, we slept on the floor in our sleeping bags, fully immersing ourselves in traditional village living.

The simplicity and hospitality of Nokhur offered a stark contrast to Ashgabat’s marble-clad artificiality, giving us a rare and authentic look into rural Turkmen life.

Driving to Nokhur Mountain Village

Village graves with wild ram horns on tombstones-spirits of rams are believed to guide the dead to heaven

Local man witlh traditional wool hat

Friendly village kid

The family we stayed with-milking the family cow

Eating dinner at our homestay

Family portraits hanging in the living room of our homestay

Kow Ata Cave: A Surreal Underground Hot Spring

One of the most surreal places we visited was Kow Ata Cave, home to an underground sulfur lake that also serves as a natural hot spring.

To reach the lake, we descended hundreds of steps into the dark, cavernous depths. The air was thick with the smell of sulfur, and the atmosphere felt both eerie and mystical.

A Mysterious, Unmapped Depth

Locals told us that the full extent of the lake remains unknown, as it has never been fully mapped. Swimming in the steaming, mineral-rich waters, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of unease, especially as I ventured further into the darkness.

I was reluctant to swim too far, my imagination running wild with the thought of some unknown creature lurking in the abyss. The combination of the unknown depths, the dark cave walls, and the silence broken only by dripping water made the experience both exhilarating and unsettling—a true hidden wonder in Turkmenistan’s surreal landscape.

Kow Ata Cave

Entering the Sulphur Hot Springs for a swim

Exploring Merv & Mary: Ancient Ruins and Unexpected Nightlife

From Ashgabat, we took a one-hour flight to Mary, a Soviet-era city in northeastern Turkmenistan, to visit the ancient Silk Road city of Merv—once the capital of the powerful Seljuk Empire before being ransacked by the Mongols.

We stayed two nights in Mary, making a day trip to Merv, where we wandered through desert ruins of old mosques and fortresses, remnants of a once-thriving metropolis.

A Surprising Night Out in Mary

Despite Turkmenistan’s strict, controlled society, we searched for nightlife in Mary and found two vastly different nightclubs:

1. The First Club: A surreal scene where men danced exclusively with each other, waist to waist, in a traditional style reminiscent of Borat—an unexpected and bizarre experience.
2. The Second Club: More like a Western-style nightclub, with boys and girls dancing to electronic music. Here, we met friendly locals, shared beers, and enjoyed a surprisingly lively atmosphere.

The contrast between Merv’s silent ruins and Mary’s unexpected nightlife made this leg of the journey a fascinating mix of history and modern Turkmen life.

Old Mosque in Merv

The building where dozens of virgin girls lived and  jumped to there death during the invasion of the Monghols. The girls fearing they would be raped chose death as a preferred option 

The building where dozens of virgin girls lived and  jumped to there death during the invasion of the Monghols. The girls fearing they would be raped chose death as a preferred option 

Inside an old mosque in Merv

Our van parked under a Soviet Mig Jet

Through the Karakum Desert: A Journey to the Darvaza Gas Crater

Turkmenistan is dominated by the Karakum Desert, an endless expanse of sand and arid plains stretching across most of the country. Our journey to the Darvaza Gas Crater, often called the “Door to Hell,” took us through this vast, featureless terrain, giving us a rare glimpse into desert life in Turkmenistan’s remote villages.

Life in the Desert Villages

Scattered across the Karakum are small desert towns, where life has remained largely unchanged for centuries. Traditionally, the Turkmen people were nomads, living in yurts, which offered mobility and insulation against the extreme desert climate. Today, many have transitioned to concrete or mud-brick homes, yet the yurt remains an essential part of daily life.

We stopped for lunch in a few villages, where we were warmly welcomed by locals. Despite the harsh environment, there was a resilient hospitality among the desert dwellers. Many families kept a yurt beside their house, using it as a retreat during the sweltering midday heat, a reminder of their nomadic heritage.

The Road to the “Door to Hell”

As we continued our drive, the scorching Karakum stretched endlessly in all directions, interrupted only by occasional herds of camels and clusters of small desert homes. There were no landmarks—just an ocean of sand and dry scrubland.

This barren yet beautiful landscape was the gateway to one of the most surreal sights on Earth—the Darvaza Gas Crater, a fiery pit in the heart of the desert, where an accidental drilling collapse in the 1970s created a massive, burning sinkhole that has been ablaze for decades. The further we drove into the Karakum, the more it felt like we were approaching the edge of the world.

Camels in the desert

Lunch with locals in a desert village

Traditional Turkmen bread, which is huge and doughy and shared by everyone at the table

Old Soviet truck common vehicle in the villages

Pet camel tied up to someone’s house

Yurt outside of someone’s house

Desert squirell 

A firendly Turkmen in a traditional wool hat that we met on the road

Camping at the “Gateway to Hell” – The Darvaza Gas Crater

After a full day of driving across the Karakum Desert, we finally reached the Darvaza Gas Crater, a surreal and eerie sight in the middle of nowhere. Often called the “Gateway to Hell,” this massive, flaming sinkhole is 70 feet deep and 250 feet wide, with no barriers or safety measures—you can walk right up to the edge and feel the intense heat of the 20-foot-high flames roaring below.

A Fiery Soviet Mistake

The origins of the crater are debated, but the most common story traces back to Soviet geologists in the 1970s. While drilling for natural gas, they accidentally collapsed an underground cavern, causing a massive release of methane gas. To prevent a dangerous gas leak, they set it on fire, expecting it to burn out in a few weeks. Over 50 years later, it’s still burning—fed by one of the world’s largest natural gas reserves.

The Turkmen government has repeatedly vowed to extinguish the flames, fearing the site wastes valuable natural gas, but every effort to stop the fire has failed. For now, the crater remains one of the most bizarre and fascinating sights on the planet.

Camping Beside the Burning Pit

The crater lies a few miles off the main highway, accessible only by a rough desert track. As we approached, the fire suddenly appeared out of nowhere, an otherworldly glow in the middle of the barren Karakum.

We set up our tents a few hundred feet away, positioning them uphill to avoid inhaling the potentially toxic fumes. With no other tourists in sight, we had the entire crater to ourselves, free to explore its perimeter under the stars.

The best part of the experience was photographing the crater at night—the flames illuminating the desert, casting an eerie glow against the black sky. After a long evening mesmerized by the inferno, I ventured into the surrounding desert in search of snakes and other wildlife.

A Midnight Camel Invasion

In the middle of the night, we were startled awake by an unexpected herd of camels that invaded our camp, making deep, guttural groaning noises that sounded straight out of Star Wars. The phantom-like silhouettes of the camels against the fire-lit desert only added to the surrealism of the moment.

The Journey Back to Ashgabat

At sunrise, we visited the crater once more, soaking in the final views of the burning pit before packing up camp. Then began the long drive back to Ashgabat, retracing our path through the endless, empty sands of the Karakum Desert.

Darvaza was one of the most unique and unforgettable camping experiences I’ve ever had—a rare chance to witness a fiery anomaly of nature and human error in one of the world’s most remote and enigmatic countries.

Gas Crater by Day

Us at the Gas Crater by Day

Me in my tent

The 4 of us at the Darvaza Gas Crater

Two of my friends at the gas crater

Me at the craters edge