May 2024: Chiapas has it all! It is one of Mexico’s most diverse states in terms of topography and culture, and it’s one of my favorite Mexican states. The state is massive, featuring a Pacific coastline, mountains, cloud forests, and the Lacandón, which is the largest rainforest in North America. There are 13 different indigenous tribes, including descendants of the Mayans, who have left evidence of their civilization scattered throughout Chiapas in the form of pyramids and other ruins, many still buried beneath jungles yet to be discovered.
This was my second trip to Chiapas. I returned because I am drawn to its Mayan mysteries and vast wilderness. Chiapas is home to two significant wilderness regions: the lowland rainforests of the Lacandón and the highland rainforests and canyons of the La Venta River’s Selva el Ocate. My first trip to Chiapas was in 2015 when I trekked across the Lacandón jungle and camped on an island in a lagoon with an unexcavated Mayan pyramid. This time, I aimed to visit the wild river canyon and the massive river cave, Arco del Tiempo (Arch of Time), along the La Venta River. Both the Lacandón and the La Venta River canyon regions are among the largest wilderness areas left in Mexico and are home to the last jaguars and other rare wildlife. The stewards of these lands are the indigenous people who have lived in these regions for hundreds of generations.
This is the story of my trip with my friends Sterling and Jimmie, which I booked last minute for my birthday weekend to the Arco del Tiempo.
Location of Arco del Tiempo
About Arco Del Tiempo
Arco del Tiempo is the world’s largest arch, although it is more accurately described as a river cave. The cave was first discovered by outsiders in 1989 and has recently begun to attract tourists, particularly trekkers and rafters. It spans a few hundred yards, covering the La Venta River as it flows through, before allowing the river to return to the open canyon.
Situated deep within one of Chiapas, Mexico’s largest rainforest wilderness reserves, known as Selva El Ocate, Arco del Tiempo is located in a mountainous region characterized by limestone mountains, cloud forests, and caves. This area is recognized as one of the last strongholds for jaguars in Mexico, adding to its allure for nature enthusiasts and adventurers.
Getting to the Trailhead
There are two ways to visit Arco del Tiempo. The most adventurous option is a weeklong rafting trip down the La Venta River. The easier and faster route involves driving to the small indigenous village of Lázaro Cárdenas, located on the edge of the rainforest surrounding the canyon of the La Venta River, and organizing a trek with local guides there. To reach Cárdenas, I flew to Tuxtla Gutiérrez via Tijuana. The village is approximately a three-hour drive from Tuxtla, accessible via a series of small paved and dirt mountain roads.
Rather than staying in the industrial, hot, and dusty city of Tuxtla, I opted for the cooler and more charming Spanish colonial city of San Cristóbal, founded in the early 1500s. San Cristóbal offers great eateries and vibrant indigenous markets, making it a more pleasant base for my trip.
From the village of Cárdenas, it is about a five-hour hike through steamy rainforests and down a steep, slippery canyon. The last 100 feet to the river bottom can only be navigated by rappelling with a rope. In theory, a village guide is required for the hike, and there is also a fee for the rappel. The best time to visit Arco del Tiempo is typically between January and June during the dry season; outside this period, the hike can become too muddy and dangerous, and the rappel may be impossible. Rising waters can also render the river too high for safe passage to the Arco or for camping at the bottom.
I arranged for a car, guide, and an overnight camping trip at Arco del Tiempo through my guesthouse in San Cristóbal. Our driver picked us up at our hotel early in the morning, and we set off through the mountains in darkness and thick fog. Driving this highway between San Cristóbal and Tuxtla is daunting in sunny conditions, but navigating it in fog with steep embankments, low visibility, and erratic drivers made the experience even more terrifying.
We arrived in the village of Cárdenas late in the morning to meet our guides at their family home. The guide’s wife prepared us a large traditional breakfast, and we sat in their modest home—a rural farming dwelling with no windows—while chickens and dogs roamed across the floor. We enjoyed freshly made eggs and tortillas cooked over an open-top stove. The guide’s extended family also lived in the home, and I visited with a newborn baby crawling over the adobe floor beside her mother. We also drank coffee made from the family’s own beans, grown in their fields. Like many rural indigenous families in this part of Mexico, they cultivated most of their own food. There was no cell phone reception in the remote village, but the family shared a Wi-Fi router with a few other families, providing them with internet access—a recent development, as cell phones were once entirely nonexistent in this region of Mexico.
Fresh tortillas made in the kitchen over an open fire stove
Sterling and Jimmie eating eggs with tortillas and frijoles
We began the trail walking through a mixed forest interspersed with agricultural land. As we entered the forest reserve, the trees grew taller and denser, enveloping us in a primary rainforest alive with the exotic sounds of parrots and other birds. Our guide informed us that monkeys are common in this area, although we didn’t spot any during our hike. He also mentioned that jaguars inhabit the forest and that he had seen them in the past.
This lush environment was once home to the Mayan civilization, and like many indigenous groups throughout Chiapas, the local people can trace their ancestry back to the Mayas. According to our guide, there are Mayan ruins scattered throughout the forest, many overgrown by jungle and yet to be fully explored. Along the hike, we frequently encountered mounds of limestone rock that we suspected might be remnants of Mayan structures, but we were too fatigued and focused on our trek to deviate and investigate them.
Despite the high elevation, the hike was hot and humid, and we found ourselves sweating profusely as we climbed and descended numerous hills. There was no water source along the trail, so we had to carry all the water we planned to consume from the start. To make the hike easier, we picked up a few hiking sticks at the beginning of the trail. These sticks proved invaluable, especially on the steep, slippery slopes we encountered.
Hike through the forest over old tangled roots and sharp limestone rock
Our guide brought along his two sons, ages 11 and 5, to assist him on the trip. In the U.S., kids this age would likely be coddled by their parents, spending their time at home playing video games. But here, they were already integral to the family business. The 11-year-old was more of a man than a boy, helping by walking the horse on the initial part of the trail while carrying our gear. Later, he took on the challenging task of portering our gear for the most difficult segment of the trek.
The 5-year-old was learning the ropes and impressively managed to rappel and climb on his own without assistance. He was a curious and eager little guy, and I was genuinely impressed with his fortitude for being so young. However, he did cry once on the way up the trail due to stomach aches. His dad quickly scolded him, telling him to quit faking and get back to walking. It was a striking contrast to how children are often treated in other cultures, showcasing the resilience and responsibility instilled in them from a young age.
Jimmie and our guides 5 year old son
The Rope Section
After an hour of descending on foot down the steep canyon, we arrived at a cliff overlooking Arco del Tiempo and the river below. The sight was breathtaking; the cliff stood about 100 feet tall, and our guide set up some ropes for us to rappel down. The rappel itself was straightforward and a lot of fun. However, the ascent was not as easy, and I deeply regretted forgetting my gloves, which left my hands pretty bloodied and battered. The experience was exhilarating, but I learned the hard way about the importance of being well-prepared for such adventures!
Video of Jimmie making the ascent up the cliff the next morning
Inside the Arco
While it’s possible to hike in and out of Arco del Tiempo in one day, I knew it would be exhausting, and I really wanted to experience the beauty of the area more fully. In my experience, there’s no better way to do that than to camp overnight. Luckily, we had the river and campsite all to ourselves for the night.
Although Arco del Tiempo was only discovered in 1989, it has rapidly gained popularity, especially in the last decade, thanks in part to social media like Instagram. This trend has brought in more visitors, primarily from Mexico. The night before our arrival, there was a large group of hikers who were too numerous to camp by the river and were making their way out of the canyon. Our guide explained that we were visiting during the last week of the season before the rains closed access to the area. He mentioned that we could technically hike down any time of the year, suggesting that, as is often the case in Mexico, there are official rules and then the realities of the situation.
View of the Arco from the bottom of the canyon
The canyon was so steep that I couldn’t see the top; the jungle closed in all around us. As soon as I descended from the rope, I jumped into the cool waters of the river and swam into the cave of the Arco. It felt like a true privilege to have such a beautiful and wild place all to ourselves, immersed in nature’s untouched beauty.
Entrance to the Arco
Sterling on top of a boulder insude the Arco
Sterling on top of a boulder insude the Arco
Relaxing in the Arco
La Venta River
From the campsite and the Arco, I walked along the river beside the jungle. The river opened into a wider section around a bend with rapids and boulders, which marked my turnaround point. Beyond this area, there are many more caves and stretches of wild river to explore, but I had to make the most of my time and savor the beauty that surrounded me.
La Venta River
La Venta River
Camping
We camped along the river on the sand, which had its drawbacks—sand fleas were an annoyance, biting my feet, but overall, the insect situation wasn’t too bad. We spent most of our time swimming in the refreshing river while our guides boiled water for cooking. One of the highlights was introducing them to macaroni and cheese, an American delicacy that was completely foreign to them. Ironically, I found myself in the unusual position of teaching someone else how to cook, which felt strange since I’m not particularly skilled in the kitchen. They tried the mac and cheese for the first time and loved it!
As night fell, I noticed that the tents provided by the guides lacked rain tarps. When I expressed concern, the guide simply responded in Spanish, “It isn’t going to rain, and if it does, we will camp inside the cave.”
We made the mistake of forgetting to bring alcohol; it would have been nice to enjoy a few sips of whiskey, but it just wasn’t meant to be. The real highlight of the evening came as the sun set, surrounding us with the sounds of the night creatures. Little colorful lights began to float around us as fireflies emerged, creating a magical atmosphere. Then, when the full moon rose over the ridge, it cast a focused beam of light onto the water and the sandy beach near our tents, resembling the spotlight of a giant helicopter. For a moment, I thought we might be on the verge of an alien abduction, convinced it was not just moonlight. But soon, the light dispersed as the moon climbed higher into the sky. The canyon was already magical by day, but at night, it transformed into a fairytale land.
Campsite
Eating Mac n Cheese
Camping
Camping
The hike out was grueling right from the start, especially with the rope ascension. My rope became entangled, and as I struggled, it scratched my legs against the cliff. My hands took a beating on the rough rope as well. After a lot of effort and sweat, I finally made it to the top, feeling a mix of relief and exhaustion.
Once we reached the top, we purified water from a small spring above the cliff, which we carried with us. Five hours later, we arrived back at the indigenous village where we had started our adventure the day before. There, we enjoyed another hearty lunch of eggs, frijoles in tortillas, and refreshing lemonade made from lemons grown in the village. After our meal, we headed back to San Cristobal for one final night before flying home the next day. The journey was challenging but unforgettable, a perfect way to celebrate my birthday surrounded by nature and good company.