August/September 2024:At the end of August, I was able to meet up with my brother Jesse, his fiancée Lexie, and my 17-year-old nephew, who had never been on a plane prior to this trip. We had a 5-day adventure in Montana that included backpacking in Glacier National Park for a few days and exploring other mountains in the area near Bozeman, where Jesse and Lexie live. I was exceptionally happy to finally visit Glacier National Park, well regarded as one of the most beautiful national parks in the USA, which had eluded me until now. Our plan in Glacier was to hike and camp along the Dawson-Pitamakan Loop Trail, an 18-mile trek that crosses two mountain passes, the Dawson and Pitamakan, both of which reach almost 8,000 feet. This trail is known for being one of the more challenging and less visited routes in Glacier National Park.
A trip to Glacier National Park and the surrounding wilderness is not just a visit to a stunning mountain range; it’s also a journey to one of the last safe havens for grizzly bears in the contiguous United States. Grizzlies survive in only a few areas, with the two major habitats being Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks. The presence of these formidable animals—capable of weighing up to 1,500 pounds, standing 8 feet tall, and equipped with 3-inch-long, dagger-sharp claws—adds a significant element of planning and risk to any backcountry trip. It’s crucial to respect these creatures; forgetting this can have deadly consequences, as grizzlies have been known to attack humans.
In Glacier National Park’s 105-year history, only ten people have been killed by bears, a statistic attributed to effective bear management and visitor education about safety precautions, particularly in the backcountry where we planned to spend some time. Maintaining a clean campsite, separating food from sleeping areas, and using secure bear containers can mean the difference between a peaceful night and a grizzly bear bursting into your tent in search of food.
When we obtained our backcountry permit at the ranger station, we were required to watch a safety video that emphasized bear awareness. One statement that stood out was: if a bear charges you, do not run. If it attacks, play dead, and if it begins to eat you, fight back. We brought bear spray canisters to keep handy at all times and stored our food in bear-proof containers away from our campsite. Given the abundance of huckleberries in bloom and the high number of bears spotted along our route to Dawson Pass, we expected to see a bear, but surprisingly, we never encountered one during our trip.
Into Glacier National Park’s Back Country
We began our trip by waking up very early to secure our permits. In Glacier National Park, 70% of wilderness campsite permits are reserved in advance, while only 30% are available for walk-in campers. This means you need to arrive at the ranger station early to beat the rush and ensure you get a spot. Fortunately, we were lucky enough to obtain permits for Old Man Lake.
At the ranger station, we received sage advice from an elderly ranger with a charming Southern drawl, who appeared to be in his 80s. He provided some sobering warnings about the risks of backcountry travel, mentioning that three people had already died in the park that summer.
After securing our permits, we spent the night camping at free National Forest campsites located in the mountains across from the southern section of Glacier National Park. A winter storm had recently passed through, dumping several feet of snow on Logan Pass and temporarily closing it off. Luckily for us, the weather was perfect for our trip, with temperatures in the high 70s and plenty of sunshine.
After a hearty breakfast at a local café, we set off to Medicine Lake to begin our trek into the backcountry. We loaded up our backpacks and started our long hike of 7 miles uphill to Old Man Lake, each carrying a hefty 60-pound pack. The trail was mostly empty, and we encountered few other hikers along the way. The alpine meadows were abundant with huckleberries, and we took the opportunity to stop and graze on them. Jesse and Lexi even collected a bag full of the sweet berries to bring home as a tasty souvenir from our adventure.
Our campsite was quite isolated, but it didn’t quite have the view of Old Man Lake that we had hoped for. Nevertheless, we were close enough, so we quickly dropped off our gear, set up our tents, and headed for a swim in the refreshing waters of the lake. As the sun began to set, we enjoyed our dinner by the lakeside, captivated by the sight of an otter catching fish nearby.
I didn’t sleep too well that night. I was still congested from COVID, and there were loud crashing sounds from an animal outside our tent that kept waking me up. It might have been a bear, but it was more likely a moose. In the morning, we decided to leave our packs behind and try camping for a second night at Old Man Lake, hoping that some campers would no-show. Instead of hiking the pass with our heavy packs, we opted for a day hike up the trail. However, we miscalculated the campsite availability and realized that, with it being Labor Day weekend, the campsites would likely be full. So, we ended up walking all the way back to Medicine Lake the same day and then drove across the Going-to-the-Sun Road to camp at Lake McDonald for the night.
The views from the pass were incredible, and the hike itself wasn’t too difficult. As we made our way up, we came across a herd of bighorn sheep that seemed to have little fear of us hikers. Their presence added to the wild beauty of the landscape, making the trek even more memorable.
The views of Glacier along the Road to the Sun, a narrow winding road carved through the mountains by Civilian Conservation Corps workers in the 1930s, were absolutely spectacular. The dramatic landscapes, towering peaks, and lush valleys made every twist and turn a breathtaking experience, showcasing the stunning natural beauty that Glacier National Park is renowned for.
We somehow managed to visit Glacier without seeing its iconic Rocky Mountain goats, so my brother promised us we would easily spot them in the National Forest near Bozeman on Sacajawea Mountain. On my last full day in Montana, we climbed the 10,000-foot peak but initially didn’t find them as expected. Fortunately, Jesse spotted a lone male along the steep slopes with his binoculars. We carefully tracked him until we were about 30 feet away, allowing me to capture a great photo without causing undue stress to the goat. We also encountered a mother goat and her baby on the trail. After the long, grueling hike, we rewarded ourselves with a refreshing dip in a cool mountain lake and some cold beers, artisan pizza from Bozeman, and huckleberry pie made from the wild ones we picked along the trail in Glacier.
