October/November 2024: Halloween is one of my favorite times of year—a celebration of mischief and the macabre, filled with ghouls, vampires, witches, and all those creepy figures that have somehow transformed into charming characters for costumes and decorations. But Halloween also reminds us of life’s mysteries and the occult, of the unknowns that linger in the shadows. Legends of hauntings and monsters across cultures can be genuinely unsettling, and my fascination with these eerie stories only grows each Halloween. I’m drawn to places where the unexplained hangs in the air and to cultures that acknowledge—and even embrace—the imminence of death.
Because of this, I wanted to experience Día de los Muertos in Central Mexico, where the traditions remain vibrant. My goal was to witness this unique celebration with my wife and infant daughter. We traveled to Cholula, the oldest continuously inhabited city in North America—a place with a rich history shaped by the Toltec, Aztec, and Maya civilizations for over 2,500 years. From there, we ventured into smaller Indigenous villages to experience their distinct Día de los Muertos customs firsthand.
Our four-day trip to Central Mexico became one of the most memorable Halloweens I’ve ever experienced. Blending Halloween with Día de los Muertos felt like the perfect combination, and in Central Mexico, where the holiday spans multiple days, it felt like Halloween was four days long instead of just one.
Location of Cholula in Puebla State,Central Mexico
About Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muertos)
Paula and I had visited Cholula a couple of years ago, and we loved the area, so deciding to return was easy. What really convinced us, though, was a tip from some well-traveled friends in our travel community, who told us about a village on the slopes of a nearby volcano. This village, untouched by commercialism and tourism, still maintains strong Day of the Dead traditions. Their vivid descriptions and photos of the place cemented our decision to return to Central Mexico. In an effort to help preserve its traditions, I won’t reveal the name of the village here.
The Day of the Dead in Central Mexico is a beautiful blend of Aztec and Spanish Catholic beliefs tied to All Saints’ Day. It’s a time of reverence for the dead, especially for ancestors and family members who have passed. Although the holiday is celebrated in Catholic countries around the world, nowhere are the traditions as strong and deeply rooted as in Central Mexico. Here are some of the most significant traditions associated with Día de los Muertos:
- Ofrendas (Altars): Families create elaborate altars to honor their loved ones, decorating them with marigolds, candles, photos, and personal items that the deceased enjoyed in life.
- Calaveras (Sugar Skulls): Decorated skulls, often made of sugar, represent the beauty and sweetness of life and are placed on altars or given as gifts.
- Pan de Muerto (Bread of the Dead): This special sweet bread, often decorated with bone-like shapes, is made to celebrate the occasion and is shared with family and friends, symbolizing the circle of life and death.
- Visits to Cemeteries: Families gather at cemeteries to clean and decorate the graves of their loved ones with flowers, candles, and food, creating a warm, inviting space for the spirits.
- La Catrina: The elegant skeletal figure of La Catrina has become an iconic symbol of Día de los Muertos, reminding people that death is part of life, and encouraging them to embrace it with respect and humor.
These traditions keep the memory of loved ones alive, allowing families to honor their ancestors in a colorful, joyful, and sacred way. It was a powerful experience to witness such an intimate celebration of life and death in a place that has preserved its authenticity.
Celebrations in Cholula
Frank holding Indie up to a Day of the Dead skeleton figure, one of many goulish figures found throughout the central plaza in Cholula
Along with our friends Frank, Paula, Indie, and I, we flew directly to Puebla from Tijuana. A quick taxi ride took us to our charming boutique hotel, which dates back to the 1800s. It didn’t take long for us to be swept away by the excitement of the festivities. Fireworks exploded all around us, and people adorned in elaborate La Catrina costumes filled the streets. The decorations were plentiful, and instead of going door to door, children trick-or-treated from person to person, asking for candy. We picked up a few bags full of sweets from the candy store across from our hotel. Shortly after checking in, we learned that a Day of the Dead parade would be passing right in front of our hotel, and we could watch it from our entranceway conveniently located on the street. Sure enough, the police began removing parked vehicles, and one after another, groups of children dressed in various costumes danced by, accompanied by a lively marching band. The parade seemed never-ending, a true celebration of community and the different schools in the area. It was a stark contrast to what I experienced back in Anoka, the so-called Halloween capital of the world, where a large Halloween parade is heavily laden with commercial advertising. Here in Cholula, the focus was on community spirit, although a few funeral homes did advertise as decorated hearses passed by, showcasing coffins in the back. As the night deepened, the vibrant colors of the decorations glowed under the moonlight. We watched the parade while eating sweet pan de muerto and drinking beer. We were fascinated by the effort that went into the never ending parade and I could tell that Indie loved it too.
Young girl in La Catrina custome, who was the daughter of a street vender selling snacks. After taking her photo I had to find some candy to give her.
Day of the Dead parade in Cholula
Day of the Dead parade in Cholula
Paula and Indie watching the parade in front of the entrance to our hotel
Hearse in the Day of the Dead parade in Cholula
Altar of the Skulls
I learned that during the Days of the Dead, the Altar of the Skulls at the pyramid of Cholula is open to the public. Visitors can peer into the burial tomb of two noble Aztec figures, a man and a woman, who were buried with some of their prized possessions and even a dog. This tomb is only accessible during Día de los Muertos. Indie peered into it, but she wasn’t particularly interested.
Altar of the skulls
A Nahua Village where the Traditions of the Day of the Dead are Strong
The main purpose of this trip was to visit a small Nahua village on the slopes of a nearby volcano. According to a few of my travel friends, this village was a hidden gem where Día de los Muertos traditions remain exceptionally strong, and where you won’t find any tourists. What really sold me were the magical photos they shared—images of the cemetery at night, illuminated by thousands of candles, with hundreds of family members gathered around their departed loved ones’ graves to pay their respects with flowers and decorations. This is what we came to see, and we weren’t disappointed.
The cemetery is large, but I realized that even a small influx of tourists could negatively impact the way the locals celebrate their traditions, bringing disruption and inviting commercialism—something that has already happened in many other villages in the region where tourism is prevalent. For this reason, I chose to preserve the essence of this place by not publicizing its name.
To reach the village, I hired a car and driver, and we drove for about an hour from Cholula to the village, which was located up a winding, narrow road on the flanks of the volcano. Beyond this village, there didn’t appear to be another, and the road deteriorated into a dirt track.
Candy skulls
Our visit began in the village market, where Día de los Muertos products like candy skulls, bread, and marigold flowers were being sold. We had a local dish of chicken, rice, and mole, which was delicious. It was fascinating to explore the market and watch as families gathered their gifts and offerings to take to the cemetery, where they would be laid before the graves of their loved ones.
Indie playing with the candy skull we bought as a souvenir
Straw toys sold in the marketplace are placed on children’s graves. Sadly we did encounter quite a few graves of children with cute toys placed over their burial
We visited a church and a panteón (graveyard) near the marketplace, where many local Nahua came to worship. Some of the elderly Nahua spoke their native language to each other instead of Spanish. This panteón was the resting place for the bodies of unknown individuals, and for this reason, it is believed that many of them may still be trapped in purgatory. Villagers came to honor their graves, laying bouquets of marigold flowers on their tombstones and praying for them.
Paths of marigold flowers were arranged in the shape of a cross, starting in the street and leading into the church to an altar created to honor the dead. The altar displayed photos of deceased priests and worshippers, their favorite foods, more marigold flowers, candy skulls, and paper mache skeletons as decorations. I learned that the scent of the marigold flowers was believed to invite spirits, guiding them along the path to the altar inside the church, where they can visit friends and family.
Path of marigold flowers leading to the altars inside the church
Paula and Indie in front of the path of marigold flowers
Nahua woman paying respects to the grave of an unknown at the church pantheon.
The Cemetary (Pantheon)
The true highlight was visiting the panteón. Over the course of three days, relatives visit the graves of their loved ones with a religious fervor. Traffic jams of family and friends from the village form outside the gates of the graveyard. Food stalls line the perimeter, selling warm, crispy chips and corn on the cob. The graveyard is packed with people honoring their dead with flowers and offerings, and families meticulously groom the graves. The atmosphere was alive with color and energy, unlike the cold, dreary graveyards I have visited back home. It was a vivid explosion of life, a true celebration of the dead.
Family members grooming the graves of their loved ones
Paula and Indie in the Pantheon
Nahua woman paying respects to the graves of her family members
Indie and Daddy
Family members grooming the graves of their loved ones
Locals warned us not to take our baby into the panteón at night, as they believe wandering spirits can latch onto a baby and follow her home. I’m not superstitious, but at the same time, I don’t like to take chances with my only daughter. So, we heeded their advice, and the latest she was in the graveyard was at dusk, just as the candles were being lit.
Paula and Indie in the pantheon
Nightfall on the pantheon with candles lit on the graves
At night, the panteón transformed into a magical world illuminated by candlelight. The candles were so densely placed that I could walk through the graveyard without needing a flashlight. Family and friends continued to visit their loved ones’ graves well into the night, and I was told that some even stay by the graveside all night long.
Nightfall on the pantheon with candles lit on the graves
Nightfall on the pantheon with candles lit on the graves
Nightfall on the pantheon with candles lit on the graves
We also visited some of the altars in family homes dedicated to deceased family members. Once again, marigold flowers, arranged in the shape of a cross, led all the way to the altar where favorite foods, tequilas, and other offerings were placed. Family and friends visit these altars during Día de los Muertos to pay their respects, and the holiday is believed to be the only time when the dead are allowed to visit the living.
An altar to a deceased family member in an elderly lady home
Another altar to a deceased family member
From the village, we returned to Cholula, where we spent our last few days enjoying the Día de los Muertos celebrations before catching our Volaris flight home.