African Kingdom of Oyotunji and Other Highlights of a Weekend Trip to South Carolina and Georgia

October 2021: A Southern Getaway

From Beaufort-Savannah-Atlanta – A Journey Through History

With a three-day weekend around Halloween and in celebration of Maricienne’s birthday (my wife’s mom), we set off to explore the historic charm of the American South. Our goal was to visit Savannah, Georgia, but we began our trip in Charleston, South Carolina, where we rented a car and hit the road.

Our first stop was Beaufort, South Carolina, a smaller town but no less rich in history.

Beaufort – Spanish Moss, Swamps, and Southern Charm

Situated near Parris Island, the East Coast’s counterpart to Camp Pendleton and a major Marine training center, Beaufort surprised us with its serene beauty and deeply historic character. Surrounded by cypress swamps, pre-Revolutionary War homes, and oak-lined streets draped in Spanish moss, the town felt like a living time capsule.

We spent one night here, taking in the slow pace, coastal air, and charm of Lowcountry life. It was the perfect contrast to our next destination.

Savannah – Stately Squares and Southern Grandeur

From Beaufort, we continued south to Savannah, where we spent our second night. This larger, more bustling city offered a different kind of Southern experience—historic squares, cobblestone streets, antebellum architecture, and the kind of hospitality Savannah is famous for. It felt alive with history, especially with Halloween just around the corner, giving the city an even more atmospheric, almost Gothic charm.

One Last Stop: Stone Mountain

Before heading home, we made a final detour to Stone Mountain, just outside of Atlanta. This massive granite dome is the site of the largest Confederate monument in the country, a controversial and towering bas-relief carved into the mountain’s face.

Regardless of one’s views on the monument’s legacy, standing atop Stone Mountain offered sweeping views of Georgia’s forests and skyline and marked a surreal and thought-provoking end to our trip.

Map of Beaufort and Savannah, where we based most of our weekend trip. 

Day 1 – Beaufort, South Carolina

Staying in a 19th-Century Mansion

We arrived in Beaufort and checked into a charming guesthouse inside a historic mansion dating back to the 1800s. With its creaky floors, tall ceilings, and antique furnishings, it felt like stepping into another era—a perfect setting to begin our journey through the Old South.

After dropping off our bags, we didn’t waste any time. We set out to explore the town and experience the local cuisine.

Southern Flavor at the Old Bull Inn

For dinner, we headed to one of Beaufort’s most popular eateries—The Old Bull Inn. This dimly lit, atmospheric bar lived up to its reputation, offering a warm, moody setting and some of the best Southern food we had on the trip. The blend of ambiance, history, and flavor made it a perfect introduction to Lowcountry culture.

Sleepy town of Beaufort, South Carolina

Old Town of Beaufort with quiet streets lined with Oak trees dripping with Spanish moss

A Haunted Detour After Dark

Exploring the Chapel of Ease on St. Helena Island

After dinner, I decided that nighttime was the perfect moment to visit one of the Lowcountry’s most haunted sites: the ruins of St. Helena Chapel of Ease, built circa 1740. To get there, we crossed the bridge to St. Helena Island, then drove down a narrow road that wound through shadowy cypress forests, a setting that already felt lifted from a Southern gothic novel.

A Place of Worship Turned School, Then Ruin

The chapel originally served the planters of St. Helena Island, offering a place of worship from the mid-18th century until the Civil War. After the war, the abandoned church was converted into a school for formerly enslaved people—until it was ultimately destroyed by fire in 1886.

Today, all that remains is the stone frame of the chapel, hidden in a grove of moss-draped oak trees, standing in eerie silence more than a century later. Visiting at night was undeniably creepy, but I’ve often found that if you really want to feel the history of a place, there’s no better time than after dark.

Legends, Graves, and the Fripp Family Crypt

The chapel is said to be haunted, and the road beside it has a history of traffic accidents—attributed to drivers swerving to avoid apparitions in the middle of the night.

Near the chapel sits a weathered vault—the Fripp family crypt, partially open to this day. According to legend, Mr. and Mrs. Fripp, who had dedicated their lives to the church’s upkeep, were buried here. But after Union soldiers vandalized the crypt during the Civil War, strange occurrences began.

Each time locals tried to seal the crypt with bricks, they returned the next morning to find the bricks neatly stacked outside, as if someone—or something—had gently but deliberately removed them. After this happened several times, the townspeople gave up. The crypt has remained open ever since.

Spirits or Just Mosquitoes?

The churchyard is also known for sightings of ghostly figures in 1800s-era dress. While we definitely felt the eerie vibes, the only spirits I encountered were giant mosquitoes, relentlessly chomping on me as I tried to take long-exposure photos of the ruins in the dark.

Even without a ghost sighting, standing among the ruins at night, surrounded by ancient trees and forgotten graves, was a highlight of the trip—and a perfect Halloween-season experience.

St. Helena Chapel of Ease

Paula in front of the St. Helena Chapel of Ease

Day 2 – A Patriotic Start and a Return to the Ruins

Morning in Beaufort

We woke up early to begin a full day of sightseeing. Our first stop was a local breakfast café in town, the kind of no-frills Southern spot where locals gather for coffee, eggs, and conversation.

At exactly 8:00 a.m., the café manager stood up and announced it was time to pledge allegiance to the U.S. flag. Without hesitation, everyone in the café—including us—stood and joined in. It was a strikingly patriotic moment, unexpected but sincere, and gave us a glimpse into the tight-knit, tradition-minded spirit of the community.

Revisiting the Chapel of Ease

After breakfast, we decided to return to the Chapel of Ease to experience it in daylight, following our eerie nighttime visit the evening before.

In the morning light, the ruins took on a different mood—less haunted, more hauntingly beautiful. The details of the coral and tabby walls, the open Fripp crypt, and the surrounding moss-covered oaks were easier to see and even more atmospheric with sunlight filtering through the trees. It was well worth the return visit.

An old fence that surrounded a graveyard near the Crypt of the Fripps- St. Helena Chapel of Ease

A Forgotten Fort from a Forgotten War

Coastal Defenses from Another Era

Our next stop was a historic coastal fort built during the Spanish-American War. Its purpose was to defend the deepwater harbor of Parris Island from a potential Spanish naval assault—a real concern at the time, though the threat never materialized.

After the war, the fort was abandoned for decades, left to weather under the coastal sun and moss-covered trees. Eventually, it was purchased by the county, preserving it as a quiet relic of a lesser-known chapter in American military history.

Walking through the crumbling remains, it was easy to imagine soldiers once stationed here, scanning the horizon for warships that never came. The fort, now quiet and partially overtaken by nature, offered a peaceful and reflective pause in our day of exploration.

Fort Fremont

Fort Fremont

Into the Swamp

From St. Helena Island, we returned to Beaufort to explore a nearby cypress swamp. There, we spotted wild alligators sunning along the banks and turtles warming themselves on logs. The still waters, moss-draped trees, and quiet wildlife created a classic, serene Lowcountry scene.

One of many small alligators we saw in the Cyprus swamp in town

Stories from the Past

A Local Museum and Peculiar Rules

Near the cypress swamp, we visited a small town museum, where the local caretaker warmly welcomed us and shared the history of Beaufort and Port Royal. One of the most memorable exhibits was a list of strict, almost comical rules for male schoolteachers from the 1870s—a clear reminder of how much society has evolved.

Sheldon Church – Burned, Rebuilt, Burned Again

From Port Royal, we drove to Sheldon, a town with roots dating back before the Revolutionary War. We stopped at the ruins of Sheldon Church, a hauntingly beautiful site surrounded by ancient graves. The church had survived being burned by the British, was rebuilt, and then burned again by Sherman’s Union Army during the Civil War. What remains is a solemn, moss-covered shell—a powerful testament to the region’s turbulent past.

Rules for a male teacher in late 1800’s

Old Sheldon Church

Old Grave at Sheldon Church

Oyotunji Village – A Slice of West Africa in the American South

Voodoo Shrines, Royalty, and Cultural Revival

Near Sheldon, we stumbled upon what was arguably the most culturally unique stop of our entire trip. For a few surreal hours in the backwoods of South Carolina, I felt like I had been transported to West Africa.

Tucked along the border of South Carolina and Georgia, Oyotunji African Village is a self-proclaimed independent kingdom of around 20 African Americans who have returned to the ancestral traditions of West Africa. Founded in the 1950s by a Black nationalist group, the village has at times numbered in the hundreds.

The community practices Yoruba customs and voodoo, and the village is led by a self-declared king. Scattered throughout Oyotunji are shrines, altars, and burial tombs of former members. There are regular festivals with drumming, dancing, and, in keeping with traditional voodoo practices, animal sacrifices—including chickens, goats, and dogs.

It was a place that challenged expectations and transported us deep into a living, breathing revival of African heritage—something I never imagined finding in rural South Carolina.

 Oyotunji African Village

Voodoo Shrine with altar below it where live animal sacrifices are carried out

Entering Oyotunji – Off the Grid and Into Another World

No Answer, So We Just Showed Up

I first discovered Oyotunji Village while researching unusual destinations in South Carolina. I found a phone number listed online and tried calling to schedule a visit—but no one ever answered. So, we decided to just show up.

After turning off the highway, we drove down a dirt road through dense forest until we reached the gates of the village. Spread over a few acres, Oyotunji felt immediately authentic—West African–style buildings, bold artwork, and voodoo shrines and statues gave the impression we had entered a different continent.

A Guided Tour Through Living Tradition

At the entrance, we were met by a few women dressed in white voodoo gowns who offered to give us a guided tour for $20 each—cash only. From the start, it was clear that this wasn’t a tourist gimmick. Oyotunji was a living, spiritual community, not a performance.

Our guide spoke a few words of Yoruba, the Nigerian language that many villagers learn. As we walked through the compound, we passed a dozen voodoo shrines, and she greeted each one in Yoruba—sometimes even singing to them softly.

We came across coffins placed beside the shrines, topped with offerings like butter and food. These weren’t museum pieces; they were active religious spaces, deeply tied to belief and tradition. The entire experience felt intimate, respectful, and completely unlike anything else in the American South.

Voodoo Shrine

Coffin of one of the villagers

From Voodoo to Waffles

A Southern Rite of Regret

After leaving Oyotunji Village, we made a necessary (if slightly regrettable) cultural stop: Waffle House. No trip to the South feels complete without at least one greasy, carb-heavy visit, even if it’s the kind of decision you immediately start to question halfway through the meal.

Driving into the Old South

Confederate Symbols and a City of History

From Sheldon, we continued south toward Savannah, Georgia, passing a few Confederate flags proudly displayed along the roadside—likely on private land. It was a striking reminder of the complicated layers of Southern identity and history that still linger visibly across the region.

Checking into the Past

The Marshall House, Savannah

Once in Savannah, we checked into our hotel—The Marshall House, a property that dates back to before the Civil War. Its historic charm, creaky floorboards, and gas lamps instantly set the tone for exploring one of the most atmospheric and haunted cities in the U.S.

The Marshall Hotel Built in 1800s

Savannah – Southern Grandeur with a Haunting Past

A Favorite Among America’s Historic Cities

Savannah easily ranks among my favorite historic cities in the U.S., right alongside New Orleans. Like anything old and storied, it’s rich with both triumph and tragedy. Designed by the British in the 1700s, Savannah became one of the South’s most beautiful cities, known for its stately architecture, graceful squares, and oak trees draped in Spanish moss.

The city was so admired, even General Sherman—who famously burned everything in his path during the Civil War—chose to spare Savannah. He reportedly considered it too beautiful to destroy.

The Marshall House – History Beneath the Floorboards

War, Disease, and Spirits That Never Left

Our hotel, The Marshall House, is a historical landmark in its own right. During the Civil War, Sherman’s Union troops commandeered it as a hospital, where hundreds of wounded soldiers were treated—many having limbs amputated right inside the building.

During a modern restoration, workers discovered human bones beneath the floorboards—remnants of those amputations. After the war, the hotel later served as an infirmary during a Yellow Fever outbreak, where many children died within its walls.

With such a heavy history, it’s no surprise that The Marshall House has earned a reputation as one of the most haunted hotels in America. Whether or not you believe in ghosts, it’s impossible not to feel the weight of the past within its creaking walls and candlelit halls.

The balcony of the Marshall Hotel Built in 1800s. Our room 205, the Mary Marshall room had a window that we had to crawl through to reach our balcony

Walking Through Time

Squares, Mansions, and a Cemetery from the 1700s

Since our hotel, The Marshall House, sits right in the heart of historic Savannah, we explored the city entirely on foot—the best way to experience its timeless charm. We wandered through dozens of oak-lined squares, each with its own fountain, statue, or garden, and admired the stunning antebellum homes that line the cobblestone streets.

One of our favorite stops was Colonial Park Cemetery, dating back to the 1700s. The worn headstones, crumbling vaults, and Spanish moss overhead gave it a haunting elegance. Many Revolutionary War soldiers, early settlers, and victims of Yellow Fever are buried here, making it as much a place of quiet reflection as it is a historical landmark.

Colonial Park cemetery

Colonial Park cemetery

A City That Deserves More Time

America’s First Planned City with Endless Stories

Savannah holds the distinction of being the first structured (planned) city in the United States, and it’s also home to the oldest operating theater in the country. Its deliberate design—gridded streets, central squares, and elegant symmetry—makes it one of the most walkable and visually captivating cities in America.

We could have easily spent a week here, soaking in the history, charm, and atmosphere. Sadly, we only had one night, and leaving so soon felt like closing a book just as the story was getting good.

Savannah Square

A Haunted Celebration

Birthday Dinner and Ghosts After Dark

To celebrate Maricienne’s birthday, we had dinner at Collins Quarter, a stylish and cozy restaurant in the heart of Savannah. Afterward, we joined a late-night ghost tour—a perfect way to experience the city’s darker history.

As our guide explained, Savannah is often called “America’s most haunted city”—a necropolis, quite literally built upon its dead. Nearly every square, house, and hotel in the historic district sits atop centuries-old burial grounds, forgotten graves, and tragic stories.

The Final Stop: Our Haunted Hotel

The final stop on the tour? Our hotel—the Marshall House. Known as one of the most haunted places in Savannah, it felt both thrilling and slightly unnerving to return there after hearing so many chilling tales.

Our room had once been the original owner’s quarters, and the second floor, where we were staying, had reportedly served as the pediatric ward during the Yellow Fever outbreak. According to legend, guests often wake with itchy feet, only to find a ghostly child tickling their soles—a playful but spine-tingling encounter.

Ghosts and Footsteps in the Night

While we didn’t see any apparitions, things did get spooky. My wife later told me she’d covered my feet with a blanket after I fell asleep—just in case. Even stranger, in the middle of the night, she heard the distinct sound of clomping heels echoing across the floor. Thinking it was her mom, she called out across the room—only to be met with total silence. Everyone else was fast asleep.

We never figured out what she heard—but in Savannah, sometimes silence speaks loudest.

Day 3 – From Savannah to Stone Mountain

A Morning Drive and a Controversial Monument

We woke up early again on our final day, needing to drive three hours to Atlanta to catch our return flight home. But before leaving Georgia, we made one last stop—Stone Mountain, often referred to as the “Mount Rushmore of the South.”

This massive granite dome features carvings of three of the most prominent figures of the Confederate South: President Jefferson Davis, General Robert E. Lee, and General Stonewall Jackson. The site is deeply controversial, given its ties to the Confederacy and its complex place in American memory. But it remains one of the most striking monuments in the country.

A Ride to the Top

To reach the summit, we took the aerial tram, which covered 1,500 feet in just 14 seconds. The views during the ride were spectacular—expansive forests, distant city skylines, and the sweeping rise of the granite monolith below us.

Standing atop Stone Mountain, it was hard not to reflect on the weight of history, the grandeur of nature, and the contradictions the South continues to wrestle with.

Stone Mountain

Stone Mountain

Stone Mountain’s Controversial Legacy

A Monument Carved in Conflict

Given the recent removal of many Confederate statues, flags, and names across the United States due to their association with slavery and white supremacy, it’s no surprise that Stone Mountain—the largest Confederate monument in the country—has faced intense scrutiny over the years.

The enormous carving of President Jefferson Davis, General Robert E. Lee, and General Stonewall Jackson is not only a tribute to the Confederacy but was also inspired and promoted by members of the Ku Klux Klan, who once held rallies on the mountain itself. That history has cast a long and uncomfortable shadow over the site.

A Mountain Etched in Debate

There have been repeated calls to remove the carvings, but doing so would be both dangerous and enormously expensive—likely part of the reason no serious action has been taken so far. In response to criticism, the park has made small efforts to reframe the narrative, including the removal of smaller Confederate monuments and the proposed creation of a museum acknowledging the horrors of slavery.

Interestingly, there is no use of the word “memorial” in any park literature or signage. Instead, employees refer to the massive images simply as “the carvings”, an attempt perhaps to neutralize or soften the loaded symbolism they represent.