A Luxurious Stopover: Hong Kong & Macau Before the Wild
July 2014: On my way to Vietnam and Cambodia, I had a three-day layover in Hong Kong and Macau, a brief but fascinating detour before an adventure that would take me deep into the jungle—trekking with anti-poaching rangers and exploring the world’s largest cave.
I flew to Hong Kong in Business Class on Delta Airlines, thanks to a pilot friend’s company passes—and it turned out to be one of my favorite flights of all time. The comfort, service, and sheer luxury set the perfect tone before diving into the wild landscapes that awaited me.
With just three days, I soaked up the vibrant energy of Hong Kong, explored Macau’s fusion of Portuguese and Chinese influences, and prepared myself for the rugged expeditions ahead. It was a perfect mix of urban exploration before heading into one of the most extreme adventures of my life.
Hong Kong
China 1995: Witnessing the Countdown to Hong Kong’s Handover
During my first visit to China in 1995, I saw a giant clock in Beijing counting down to Hong Kong’s handover—a moment that would end 156 years of British rule at midnight on July 1, 1997.
China had pledged to uphold Hong Kong’s democratic system, but even then, doubts loomed. Many feared that once the countdown hit zero, Beijing’s influence would gradually tighten. The handover was a historic turning point, marking the return of one of the world’s most vibrant cities—but also the beginning of an uncertain future.
Giant clock in Tianimen Square counting down minutes to the handover of Hong Kong to China
Business class seat
Hong Kong and Macau on the doorstep of China
Hong Kong: A City of Cinematic Dreams
Hong Kong had always been one of those exotic, electrifying cities I grew up seeing in movies—kung fu battles, James Bond chases, and the shadowy world of the Chinese triads. It felt larger than life, a place I had long dreamed of experiencing for myself.
So when a pilot friend offered me a standby ticket, giving me the chance to fly there for free, I didn’t hesitate. This was my opportunity to see the city beyond the screen—to walk its neon-lit streets, soak in its energy, and witness firsthand the pulse of one of the world’s most legendary metropolises.
Kowloon: The Gritty, Real Hong Kong
Rather than staying in the polished high-rises of Hong Kong Island, I chose Kowloon—the grittier, more budget-friendly side of the city. It was cheaper, denser, and far grimier, but that was exactly what I wanted—the real Hong Kong.
My hotel room was barely larger than a single bed, with a tiny, closet-sized bathroom, crammed into a labyrinthine Kowloon building complex. The entire structure felt like a city within a city, with endless tunnels, stairwells, and hidden floors, packed with travelers, merchants, and long-term residents. It was chaotic, cramped, and alive—the raw, unfiltered heartbeat of Hong Kong.
My cramped hotel room
Kowloon Nights: Street Food and the Maze of the Night Market
One of my favorite things to do in Kowloon was simply walking the streets at night, getting lost in the neon glow, and trying food from random street vendors. The city had an energy after dark—a pulsing, chaotic rhythm that made every turn feel like an adventure.
But there was one place my friend insisted I visit: the night market. With Google Maps in hand, I set off, weaving through Kowloon’s maze-like alleys, navigating past street hawkers, flashing signs, and the endless hum of the city, eager to see if the market lived up to its reputation.
Kowloon
Street Market
Kowloon’s Night Market: A Surprising Discovery
Expecting a bustling market of trinkets and street food, I was caught off guard when I arrived to find an entire street lined with stalls selling sex toys. The real shock, however, was that most of the vendors were middle-aged to elderly Chinese women—a surreal contrast to the merchandise they were peddling.
One woman, without hesitation, waved a floppy rubber penis at me, motioning for me to take a closer look. The stalls were filled with rubber vaginas, risqué DVDs, and all kinds of adult novelties—a scene that felt completely at odds with what I had imagined Hong Kong’s night markets to be.
I instinctively reached for my camera, but the vendors were extremely sensitive to photography, quickly waving me off. It felt like the kind of underground eccentricity that could soon disappear as China tightened its grip on Hong Kong—a relic of the city’s wilder, more unregulated past.
Night market-sex toys for sale on the street
A Ride on the Star Ferry: Hong Kong’s Spectacular Skyline
For just a few dollars, I took the historic Star Ferry across Victoria Harbour, traveling from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island. As the boat glided over the dark waters, I was met with a breathtaking view—Hong Kong’s iconic skyline illuminated against a mountainous backdrop, its towers shimmering in the night.
The scene was already one of the most stunning cityscapes in the world, but the experience became even more surreal when lightning erupted through the thunderclouds, briefly silhouetting the skyline in dramatic flashes. It was a perfect farewell to Hong Kong—a city of chaos, beauty, and unforgettable energy.
Star ferry
Skyline Hong Kong
Victoria Peak: A Hike Above the Skyline
Taking the historic Peak Tram to Victoria Peak was a must in Hong Kong, but I didn’t stop at the viewing platform—I hiked through the jungle trails for a quieter, more stunning perspective.
From the lookout, Hong Kong’s skyline spread out below, skyscrapers rising against the harbor, framed by lush greenery. It was the perfect blend of urban energy and natural beauty, a rare moment of serenity above the bustling city.
Victoria Peak train
View from Victoria Peak
View from Victoria Peak
View from Victoria Peak
A Day in Macau: Colonial Charm Over Casinos
A one-hour fast ferry brought me to Macau, a former Portuguese colony until 1999 and now one of the wealthiest gambling hubs in the world. But with no interest in casinos—and dressed in backpacker clothes that likely would have gotten me barred from entry anyway—I opted for a different experience.
I spent the day wandering Macau’s old streets, admiring the unique blend of Portuguese and Chinese architecture, where European-style plazas, tiled sidewalks, and pastel-colored buildings stood alongside Chinese temples and markets. It was a fascinating mix of East and West, a reminder of the city’s colonial past amid its flashy, modern reinvention.
Macau streets
Macau streets
Old Portuguese fort with cannon aimed at a billion dollar casino
Portuguese statue
Crumbling facade of an old Portuguese church
From Hong Kong to Hanoi: The Journey to the World’s Largest Cave
Leaving Hong Kong, I flew to Hanoi, the next stop on my journey toward one of the world’s greatest natural wonders—Hang Son Doong, the largest cave on Earth. From the bustling streets of Hanoi, my adventure was about to take me deep into the heart of Vietnam’s untouched jungle, where an otherworldly underground world awaited.