February 2024: Starting my final countries tour with an adventure in Saint Lucia’s Holy Grail Canyon was unforgettable. With my nephew Dylan and friends Jimmie and Wes, we geared up for a canyoneering experience unlike any other. Edmond, our guide, had developed this intense adventure from his own background in rock climbing, which he honed while working on a cruise ship. Edmond’s business is one of the few canyoneering services in the West Indies, so I knew we were in for something special.

We chose his most challenging route—a six-hour journey descending through the canyon’s rugged terrain. We navigated narrow passages, climbed through caves, and waded across rapids, each section becoming more intense as we pressed on. The rappelling was incredible, especially the 50-foot waterfall descent that demanded all our focus and strength. Walking, swimming, and climbing through the rainforest was like entering a different world, with every twist and turn revealing new challenges and beauty.

The adrenaline and camaraderie made this one of the most action-packed days I’ve ever had in the Caribbean—or anywhere, for that matter. It set the bar high for the rest of the trip and reminded me how thrilling and rewarding these kinds of wild adventures can be.

 

 

About Saint Lucia

Saint Lucia’s history is rich and complex, shaped by centuries of colonization, conflict, and eventual independence. Originally home to the Arawak and later the Carib Indians, the island’s indigenous populations were tragically decimated following European arrival. Ownership of the island changed between the French and British multiple times during the colonial era, until it finally became a British territory. In 1979, Saint Lucia achieved independence, and it has since become a sought-after destination in the Caribbean, cherished for its natural beauty and cultural charm.

The island’s appeal is beautifully diverse. The south is famed for pristine beaches, while the north captivates with lush rainforests, rugged mountains, and the iconic Pitons—two dramatic volcanic spires that are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hiking and canyoneering around these stunning landscapes makes Saint Lucia a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts, offering not only beauty but a sense of history that lingers in every peak and bay.

 

 

Saint Lucia

Getting to Saint Lucia was an adventure in itself! We flew in on an InterCaribbean Airlines twin-prop plane from Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, landing at the Castries Airport in the south. This airport has to be one of the best-designed I’ve ever seen, with a bar and restaurant conveniently located just across from the check-in counters, right by a beautiful beach. It made for a perfect spot to unwind right after landing.

Instead of renting a car this time, I let Edmond, our canyoneering guide from ERA Adventures, handle the driving. He picked us up and took us across the island to his property, where we planned to camp for the night. The next morning, we’d start our canyoneering trip in the canyon right below his property, ready for an epic adventure in Saint Lucia’s rainforests.

 

The beach at the airport

Canyoneering at the Holy Grail Canyon

Edmond went above and beyond as our guide. Before heading to his property, he took us around to some beaches and helped us stock up on groceries, making sure we were set for the night. His property was a true slice of jungle paradise, perched above the canyon we’d be exploring the next day. He had started planting crops and was working on building rustic huts to host future tourists, but since these weren’t yet finished, he generously let us pitch our tents on his land for free.

The next morning, we dove straight into our canyoneering adventure. The six-hour trek through Holy Grail Canyon was intense—rappelling down waterfalls, leaping off cliffs, swimming through deep pools, and scrambling over slippery, rugged rocks. There were plenty of adrenaline-fueled moments, and somehow we made it through with nothing worse than a few scrapes. It was one of the best single-day adventures I’ve ever had—challenging, exhilarating, and surrounded by stunning tropical scenery.

 

 

One of the pitons as seen from Edmon’s property where we camped 

Having the canyon to ourselves made the experience even more special. Surrounded by towering cliffs draped in lush rainforest, ferns, and waterfalls cascading down rock faces, it felt like we’d stepped into another world. Once we entered, there was no turning back—the only way out was to keep following the river until we emerged from the canyon’s steep walls. That sense of commitment and isolation weighed on my mind, especially with the risk of injury always present.

The trek was demanding, especially on our feet, but every tough step was worth it. The scenery was breathtaking, and the constant thrill kept our energy up. It was exhausting, but we all agreed it was one of the most rewarding experiences we’d had.

 

 

Entering the river

Swimming through caves

Jumping into a rapid that rushed through a small cave

Sketchy moment descending a canyon 

Edmond carrying all of the rope 

Navigating the canyon

Swimming through a narrow part of the canyon

The adventure was full of daring moments. Sometimes, we’d simply leap off cliffs into deep pools below, letting the rush of adrenaline push us forward. Other times, Edmond would set up a rappel for us to descend. One time, I nearly made it to the bottom when the rope got stuck, leaving me dangling about a foot from the pool. Edmond had to skillfully climb down to help free me, then ascend again to assist the others. He was calm and experienced, making it look effortless, but I was relieved to touch solid ground!

The waterfall rappels were another story. During one descent, all of us lost our footing on the slippery rocks, resulting in some awkward tumbles down. Poor Jimmie got the worst of it—he swung sideways, headfirst into the full force of the waterfall, which practically waterboarded him. It was a chaotic moment, but we couldn’t help laughing once he emerged, soaked and sputtering. It was a tough day, but these mishaps made the adventure even more memorable.

Rapelling down a cliff 

Jimmie being waterboarded by a waterfall

After our intense canyon adventure, Edmond treated us to a well-deserved meal at a local village home. We sat down to a spread of freshly prepared fish, cassava, beans, and rice, all cooked by a few of his neighbors. The women who prepared the meal were so welcoming, and it was clear they took pride in their cooking, using ingredients straight from the island. They served us lemonade that was refreshing and perfectly sweet after a day in the canyon. Sharing this meal with them, in such a genuine setting, added a layer of warmth to the day—capping off one of our most unforgettable adventures in Saint Lucia.

 

Homemade meal 

After our meal, Edmond drove us south to a cozy, local house where we stayed for the night. The family there had a few vacant rooms, and they welcomed us warmly. The accommodations were simple but comfortable, and the owner went out of their way to ensure we had everything we needed. Staying with a local family added a sense of connection to our time in Saint Lucia, and we enjoyed hearing their stories and getting a feel for everyday life on the island.

The following afternoon, we packed up and caught our flight to Trinidad on Caribbean Airlines, ready for the next part of our adventure.

 

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