August 2024: Enchanted Forests of Washington State
Exploring the Hoh Rainforest with My Family
A Land of Giants and Rain
Washington State is a treasure trove of natural wonders—rugged coastlines, serene bays, snowcapped peaks, and formidable volcanoes. But for me, it’s the temperate rainforests that hold the deepest allure, especially the ancient groves of Olympic National Park.
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These forests contain some of the largest remaining old-growth temperate trees in the lower 48 states.
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Positioned near the Pacific Ocean and flanked by both the Cascade and Olympic Mountain ranges, this region receives some of the heaviest rainfall on Earth.
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That abundant moisture fuels the growth of towering pines cloaked in moss, ferns, and lichen—an ecosystem that feels almost prehistoric.
The Remote Wilderness of the Olympic Peninsula
The Olympic Peninsula is more than a beautiful backdrop—it’s a truly rugged wilderness. It was one of the last regions in the western U.S. to be fully explored. Even now, roads only reach the outer edges of the park. The mountainous interior remains largely untouched, preserving a sense of wildness that’s increasingly rare.
Washington, and especially Olympic, is simply breathtaking.
From First Encounter to Family Tradition
My First Trip: 2020
I first ventured into Washington’s temperate rainforests in the summer of 2020, exploring the woodlands around Bellingham with my friend Evan. The experience left a lasting impression—lush, misty forests teeming with life. I knew I would return.
Our Return: 2024
Four years later, I came back with my wife and our infant daughter for a weekend of camping in the Hoh Rainforest, a part of Olympic National Park that is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This return trip was not just a personal pilgrimage—it was a chance to share the wonder of this place with my family.
The Hoh Rainforest: A Living Fantasy
Walking through the Hoh Rainforest is like stepping into a storybook realm. The ancient pines are draped in layers of green, and the forest floor is alive with:
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Soft mosses and vibrant ferns
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Lichen-covered branches that seem to whisper with age
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A magical ambiance where it’s easy to imagine elves or gnomes hiding just out of sight
But instead of fantasy creatures, we encountered Roosevelt Elk grazing in the shadows—and, less enchantingly, clouds of relentless mosquitoes.
Location of Hoh Rainforest in Olympic National Park
First trip to Washington’s Rainforests in the Bellingham Area
Sunset View of the bay from one of the State Parks near Belligham
My friend Evan on a lake hike
Abandoned wooden cabin being reclaimed by the temperate rainforest
During my first trip to Washington, it rained a lot and this drove many of the slugs out to feed
A swamp full of resonating bull frogs camoflaughed
My Daughter’s First Camping Trip in Hoh Rainforest
A Long-Awaited Dream: Camping in the Hoh Rainforest
A Journey into One of the Wettest and Most Beautiful Forests on Earth
A Place I’ve Always Wanted to Experience
For years, I dreamed of visiting the Hoh temperate rainforest, a UNESCO World Heritage site located within Olympic National Park. It’s renowned as one of the wettest places in North America, and, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful. Towering ancient trees, mist-draped canopies, and vibrant green undergrowth make it feel like a land suspended in time.
Why Camping Matters More Than Comfort
We camped there for two unforgettable nights. While many travelers might prefer the comfort of a hotel, I’ve always believed that immersing yourself in nature creates more lasting and meaningful experiences. There’s something deeply grounding about sleeping beneath the trees and waking to the sounds of the forest.
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I see camping as a way to connect more intimately with the land.
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I hope to pass this love of wild places on to my daughter, Indie, showing her the beauty and resilience of the natural world from an early age.
The Insect Gauntlet: Challenges of Summer Camping
Camping in the Hoh rainforest during the summer isn’t without its difficulties. The constant moisture and dense vegetation make it a haven not only for moss and ferns—but for insects.
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We faced swarms of mosquitoes and aggressive horseflies, especially during the day.
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As a parent, my biggest concern was keeping Indie safe from bites.
Despite the buzzing torment, Indie held up impressively. With only a few bites and no complaints, she still managed to find joy in the experience. Watching her adapt and thrive in the rainforest gave me hope that she might one day cherish the wilderness as much as I do.
Indie’s hand on the window-Flight from San Diego to Seattle
Getting There: Into the Heart of Olympic National Park
Flying with Gear and Driving Deep into the Wilderness
A Cross-State Journey to the Rainforest
We packed all of our camping gear into checked luggage and flew into Seattle, ready for an immersive family adventure. From there, we rented a car and embarked on the five-hour drive to the Hoh Rainforest campground, located deep within Olympic National Park.
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I had reserved our campsite a month in advance, knowing how quickly they fill up—especially in summer.
Camp Without Fire: Adapting to Park Restrictions
Making Do in a Forest Without Flames
Though the Hoh is one of the wettest places on Earth, most of its rain falls in winter—not summer. When we arrived, the region was under a strict fire ban due to dry conditions, and campfires were not allowed.
It was a letdown, especially since the ambiance of a fire is such a central part of the camping experience. But we adapted:
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We hung small lights around our tent to create a soft, warm glow.
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We brought an ashless flame source as a substitute for firelight.
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Meals were cooked in our compact camp oven, which proved to be a reliable companion.
Despite the restrictions, we embraced the quiet and the cool evening air, doing our best to capture the spirit of camping in one of the most iconic forests in the country.
Location of our campsite in Hoh Rainforest in Olympic National Park
Location of our campsite in Hoh Rainforest in Olympic National Park
Tent cuddles
Indie not happy and teary eyed in the tent
Happy family in the tent
Camping by the River
A Peaceful Base in the Heart of the Forest
A Spacious Campground with Wild Neighbors
The Hoh campground felt surprisingly spacious and uncrowded, even in the height of summer. Our site was set just a short walk from the Hoh River, where we were treated to views of giant Roosevelt elk grazing nearby—an unforgettable sight that added a sense of wilderness to the experience.
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Surrounded by the lush greenery of the rainforest, it felt like we were camping in a natural cathedral of moss-draped giants.
Off-Grid Comforts: Making Do Without Showers
One of the few drawbacks of the campground was the lack of shower facilities. To stay clean, we came prepared:
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We brought a pop-up shower tent, which gave us a bit of privacy.
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Using buckets, we collected cold river water for bathing—refreshing and bracing, to say the least.
While it wasn’t luxurious, it felt authentic—and added to the sense of adventure.
Small little magical fairytale forest nook near our campsite
Indie in her camping chair having dinner
Indie in her camping chair having dinner
Indie in her camping chair having dinner
Roosevelt Elk: Guardians of the Rainforest
A Rare Encounter with an Endangered Icon
A Living Legacy of Conservation
The Hoh Rainforest is one of the last strongholds of the endangered Roosevelt elk, the largest of the four North American elk subspecies. These majestic animals were named after President Theodore Roosevelt, who championed their protection and played a key role in establishing the park itself.
Up-Close Wildlife Moments
We were lucky to witness a herd of Roosevelt elk grazing peacefully—some across the river from our campsite, others strolling near the roadside just minutes from where we camped.
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Their presence added an almost primeval feeling to the forest, reminding us how rare it is to be in a place where such large, wild animals still roam freely.
It was one of those quiet but powerful moments that stays with you long after the trip is over.
Grazing Roosvelt Elk
Wandering Among Giants
Hiking Through the Heart of the Hoh
A Forest That Feels Like Magic
The absolute highlight of our time in the Hoh Rainforest was hiking through its ancient groves. There’s truly no way to overstate how magical and awe-inspiring this place felt. The towering trees, draped in moss, and the lush green undergrowth created an atmosphere that felt straight out of a fairytale.
Peaceful Trails and Early Starts
Though the Hoh is a popular destination, the trails were surprisingly peaceful, especially in the early morning. We made a point to start our hikes before the crowds arrived, allowing us to enjoy the quiet beauty of the forest almost entirely to ourselves.
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We hiked with Indie in a backpack carrier, taking frequent breaks to snap photos and soak in the surroundings.
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At times, we walked in complete silence—just the sound of our boots on the trail and the occasional call of birds echoing through the trees.
A Reminder of the Wild
Scattered along the trail were warning signs about mountain lions, a sobering reminder that this is still very much a wild place. We kept Indie close and stayed alert, appreciating the forest’s beauty while respecting its untamed nature.
Paula and Indie
Paula in the Hoh Rainforest in Olympic National Park
Me carrying Indie
Location of Hoh Rainforest in Olympic National Park
Paula and Indie in Hoh Rainforest in Olympic National Park
Paula carrying Indie
Me and Indie
A photo of Indie right before her mom had to jump in and grab a rock from her mouth that she tried to swallow
Indiein the Hoh Rainforest in Olympic National Park
A Brief Detour to the Coast
Driftwood Giants and Crowded Shores
A Different Side of Olympic
In addition to exploring the rainforest, we made a stop at the Pacific coastline of Olympic National Park. While the scenery was impressive, I found the experience less enjoyable due to the higher number of tourists in this area. After the peaceful solitude of the Hoh, the crowds felt a bit jarring.
Where the Forest Meets the Sea
What did stand out, though, were the massive piles of driftwood scattered along the shore. These weren’t your average beach logs—they were enormous tree trunks, washed down from the rainforest and bleached by sun and sea.
Coastline
Paula on the Pacific
The Road Home: A Northern Route Through Pines
A Final Taste of Olympic’s Diversity
A Change in Scenery
On our drive back to Seattle, we took the northern route through Olympic National Park, allowing us to experience a different side of its landscape. The pine forests in the park’s northern reaches were distinct from the mossy rainforests of the Hoh.
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These forests were drier and more open, with sunlight filtering through tall, straight trunks.
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While different in atmosphere, they were equally beautiful, offering one last reminder of the park’s stunning ecological diversity.
River near Sol Duc Falls
Near Sol Duc Falls
Near Sol Duc Falls
Indie touching a massive ancient pine forest tree that could easily be 1,000 years old