March 2007: My main reason for visiting El Salvador was to surf its amazing, uncrowded waves. However, I was also curious about the country itself—known for its history of gang violence, particularly MS-13, and a dark past of civil war that claimed thousands of lives, peaking in the 1980s.
During my time there, I ended up surfing some of the biggest waves of my life, with sets reaching double overhead at times. More than just a surfing trip, the experience became personal when I met a local Salvadoran family who took me in, offering me a place to stay at their beach house and later at their home in San Salvador. They welcomed me like family and even took the time to show me around their country, adding an unexpected but unforgettable layer to my journey.
My path
El Salvador 5-Day Surf Trip Itinerary
Day 1
- Arrive at El Salvador International Airport
- Take a taxi to La Libertad and El Zonte
- Surf Playa El Sunzal
- Stay at Hotel Sunzal
Day 2
- Surf El Zonte
- Stay at Hotel El Zonte
Day 3
- Surf El Zonte
- Stay with Salvadoran friends in San Salvador
Day 4
- Hike to Los Tercios Waterfall
- Surf El Zonte
- Stay at Hotel El Zonte
Day 5
- Depart El Salvador → Fly to Houston
El Zonte Beach
Surfing
My main reason for visiting El Salvador was to surf endless warm, tropical waves. Having lived in Ocean Beach, California, for over a decade, I had developed a deep love for surfing. While I wouldn’t classify myself as an expert, I enjoyed surfing—especially in foreign lands, where each break offered a new experience.
At the time, El Salvador was still off the beaten tourist path, with few backpackers or surfers venturing there. The surf scene was still up-and-coming, and I wanted to experience it before it became overcrowded, like Costa Rica.
Since I wasn’t familiar with El Salvador’s surf breaks—some of which were known to be dangerous, both due to strong currents and rocky seabeds as well as the threat of gang violence—I decided to book a surf guide for my first session in Sunzal. Traveling alone, I wanted to get a lay of the land before venturing off on my own with a better understanding of the waves and any potential risks.
A large swell rolled in during my visit, and at first, I was intimidated. Some waves loomed as high as double overhead, and I found myself dodging them, hesitating to commit. There were a few other surfers, a mix of Americans and locals, some riding dilapidated surfboards that had clearly seen better days. But as expected, the breaks were mostly empty—a rare and thrilling sight.
Eventually, I realized I couldn’t come all the way to El Salvador just to sit on the sidelines. I had to go for it, no matter the consequences. I paddled into a monster wave, knowing that if I missed the drop, I’d get thrown over the lip and pay the price. And I did—more than a few times. But when I finally caught a wave, it felt like harnessing the power of a mountain. It was incredible.
After a day of surfing Sunzal, I took a taxi north to El Zonte, where I stayed in a beach bungalow and surfed non-stop for the next few days. Between sessions, I ate pupusas and drank cold beers from beachside food stands, savoring the simple perfection of it all. It was heaven.
Some of the waves on one of the smaller days. Sadly since I surfed alone, I have no photos of myself surfing.
Staying with an El Salvadorian Family I Met on the Beach
One afternoon, after a surf session, I was playing ping pong at my beach bungalow when a young Salvadoran girl in her late teens and her mother approached me. They struck up a conversation, asking where I was from, and after some chatting, they invited me to their beach house. I happily accepted, and over time, I met the father and became friends with the entire family. They welcomed me into their home in San Salvador, hosted me at their beach house, and even drove me north to hike to the Los Tercios waterfalls. Moments like these remind me why I always embrace opportunities to connect with locals—experiences like these offer a deeper understanding of a country that ordinary tourism simply can’t provide.
Volcano
Village celebration on our drive across El Salvador
Village celebration
Hiking Trip to Los Tercios Waterfalls
My host family loved hiking, and when they discovered that I was an adventure traveler who shared their passion, they were eager to show me one of the highlights of their country—the Los Tercios waterfalls. Reaching the falls required some hiking and climbing, adding to the adventure. However, they warned me not to bring any valuables, as they had been robbed at machete-point by bandits on a previous visit. Despite this, they seemed unfazed—crime, they explained, was simply a part of life in El Salvador. Fortunately, our hike was free of any incidents, and instead of danger, we found adventure and shared a great time exploring together.
Los Tercios Wateralls Hike
Crazy insect we found
Los Tercios Wateralls Hike
Los Tercios Wateralls Hike
Los Tercios Wateralls Hike-climbing a rope to the top of the falls
Los Tercios Wateralls Hike-local kids swimming
Los Tercios Wateralls Hike
Los Tercios Wateralls Hike
Me swimming underwater with the mom of my host family
El Salvador was one of those trips where I arrived alone but left with a newfound family and a deep sense of belonging. What had been a completely foreign country just days before quickly became familiar, thanks to the warmth and hospitality of the people I met.