October 2022: Exploring Malta

A Tiny Country with a Big History

Malta may be small, but it is absolutely packed with history. Sitting in the middle of the Mediterranean—just off the shores of Sicily, Italy, and Tunisia—the island has held enormous strategic importance for centuries. Nearly every major empire in the region has recognized its value and left its mark on this rocky outpost.

My Final Mediterranean Country

For some reason, Malta ended up being the very last Mediterranean country I visited. Despite only having two days on the island, I was determined to make the most of every moment. My plan was simple: explore as much as possible, absorb the atmosphere, and uncover the layers of history that make Malta so unique.

Malta’s Layers of History

The Shipwreck of St. Paul

Nearly 2,000 years ago, a Roman ship carrying the Apostle Paul wrecked off Malta’s rugged northwestern coast. The stranded crew assumed the barren island to be uninhabited, but they were mistaken. Malta had already been settled for thousands of years.

An Ancient and Mysterious Past

Long before Romans or Christians arrived, an ancient culture thrived here—one that left behind temples, burial mounds, and stone monuments that still puzzle archaeologists today. These prehistoric builders gave Malta one of the world’s oldest known architectural legacies.

A Crossroads of Civilizations

Over the centuries, Malta became a revolving door of empires. The Phoenicians established trade here, followed by the Romans. Muslim Arabs introduced new traditions before the Normans wrestled control away. Eventually, the island fell under British rule, cementing its importance as a strategic stronghold.

Malta in Wartime

Malta’s role in global conflicts is undeniable. During the Crimean War it served as a focal point of naval power. Later, in World War II, the island was relentlessly bombed by Nazi forces. Its resilience during these years became legendary, earning Malta the George Cross for bravery.

From Warzone to Tourist Haven

Today, Malta is no longer a battleground but a magnet for tourists. In summer, the number of visitors often exceeds the population of its citizens. To avoid the peak-season crowds, I chose to come in October—during the shoulder season when the weather is still warm, but the island feels more relaxed and authentic.

Map of Malta

Arrival in Malta

Late-Night Landing

My wife, mother-in-law, and I arrived in Malta late at night on a short flight from Sicily. Tired but excited, we quickly picked up our rental car—a compact stick-shift—and I once again had to adjust to driving on the left side of the road. Add to that the island’s endless multi-lane roundabouts, and the first few minutes behind the wheel were anything but boring.

St. Paul’s Bay Stay

From the airport, we drove for about an hour across the island to the seaside village of St. Paul’s Bay. Our guesthouse was tucked inside a small 1930s-era apartment building, modest but full of character.

At first, it seemed like a nice and well-situated place to base ourselves. But the stay took a sour turn. Even though my booking already included my credit card information, the owner insisted on cash payment. Unfortunately, he chose to bring this up at midnight on our second night by pounding violently on our door. At first, I thought someone was trying to break in and yelled at them to go away—only to realize it was the owner himself.

The confrontation was heated. I explained that he could have mentioned this during the day, not in the middle of the night. Since I didn’t have enough euros on hand, I convinced him to wait until the morning so I could withdraw cash from an ATM a few blocks away. Although we resolved the situation, the whole ordeal left me with a poor impression of what could have otherwise been a charming, family-run guesthouse.

A Full Day Ahead

Shaking off the stress of the night, we woke early the next morning determined to make the most of our short visit. Our plan was ambitious: see as much of Malta as possible in a single day.

Abandoned Building

Exploring Malta’s Hidden Corners

Morning Walk in St. Paul’s Bay

I woke up before everyone else and decided to take a quiet walk through the neighborhood. The streets were lined with early 1900s buildings, many showing their age—some beautifully preserved, others in serious decay. Even in silence, Malta’s past seemed to whisper through its walls.

Breakfast on Xemxija Bay

We began our day with breakfast overlooking Xemxija Bay. It was here I realized that in Malta, you never have to go far to stumble upon history. On this small island, even homeowners have uncovered medieval tunnel networks while digging in their backyards.

As I sipped my coffee, I noticed dark openings in the cliffs beside the café. Curiosity got the better of me, and I followed a narrow trail into the brush, where I discovered a series of man-made caves carved into the rock. Some were sealed, while others stood open with doors rotting away. Inside, a few interconnected rooms had been hollowed from the stone. Scattered debris hinted at use, but their exact purpose remained unclear—were these ancient tombs, medieval shelters, or perhaps World War II hideouts? The mystery added to their allure.

Seeking Malta’s Wilder Side

From Xemxija Bay we set off for the island’s far western edge. Despite Malta being one of the most densely populated countries in Europe, I was pleasantly surprised by how much open space and wilderness still remain. Remote stretches of countryside unfolded before us, with barely another soul in sight. These wild corners were exactly the kinds of places I wanted to explore.

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St. Pauls Bay

Man Made Cave Entrances on the Side of the Cliff

Western Malta Adventures

Chapel of the Immaculate Conception

Our first stop was the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception, perched dramatically above the sea cliffs. The chapel is dedicated to a saint believed to have miraculously saved a fisherman’s life after his boat capsized in the treacherous waters below. Standing there, with the wind whipping against the cliffs and waves crashing below, it wasn’t hard to imagine how perilous the sea could be.

The Coral Lagoon

From the chapel, we continued on foot to the Coral Lagoon, a natural sea cave carved into the limestone. The lagoon opens directly to the Mediterranean, and under calm conditions, it would have been the perfect place for a swim. On this day, however, the wind howled, and the normally serene turquoise water was churning violently. Even without swimming, the sight of the foaming sea framed by the circular lagoon was unforgettable.

Coral Lagoon

Cliffs on Far West of Malta Island/Rough Windy Seas

Fort Campbell on the Selmun Peninsula

Next, we drove out to the remote Selmun Peninsula, where the ruins of Fort Campbell still stand. Built by the British during World War II, the fort once guarded Malta’s northern coastline but has long since been abandoned. Its crumbling walls and empty corridors echoed with history, a reminder of the island’s strategic importance during the war.

Beyond the fort itself, the peninsula was a joy to explore. Scattered ruins, old stone buildings, rugged sea cliffs, and stretches of untamed nature gave the area an atmosphere both wild and historic. It felt far removed from Malta’s crowded tourist hubs—exactly the kind of hidden corner I love to discover.

Fort Campbell/British World War II Era Fort

Exploring the Abandoned Fort

We had Fort Campbell entirely to ourselves. Unlike Malta’s more polished historical sites, this was no tourist stop. The fort is completely abandoned, its grounds littered with crumbling military buildings and half-collapsed tunnels. Walking through it felt like stepping back in time.

Ghosts of World War II

Inside the tunnels, I noticed rusted munition boxes—silent relics of the fort’s wartime purpose. It’s not hard to imagine that, buried deeper, other World War II-era artifacts still lie hidden beneath the rubble. During the war, Malta was of immense strategic value to the British, and Fort Campbell would have been a critical defensive outpost as the island endured relentless Nazi bombings.

Reinforced Against Attack

Built from reinforced concrete, the fort was engineered to withstand heavy bombardment. Underground bunkers and passageways once offered protection and storage, though many of these tunnels have now collapsed. The few I entered didn’t extend very far before dead-ending in piles of rock. Still, wandering through what remained offered a raw, unfiltered glimpse into Malta’s wartime struggles.

Guard Tower

Paula inside one of the underground military buildings

Thoughts of Camping at Fort Campbell

Standing among the ruins, I couldn’t help but think how Fort Campbell would make a fascinating place to camp. The isolation, the crumbling walls, and the wild cliffs around it give it an adventurous atmosphere. Evidence of past campfires and makeshift shelters suggested that others had already had the same idea. For such a small island, Malta surprised me with how many untamed corners remain open for wild camping.

The Statue of St. Paul

From the fort, we had a clear view of the statue of the Apostle Paul, rising on a small island just offshore. Built in the early 1800s, the statue marks the traditional site where St. Paul is believed to have shipwrecked while being transported to Rome as a prisoner.

Malta’s Enduring Faith

According to tradition, Paul survived the wreck and went on to convert most of the island’s inhabitants to Christianity. Nearly two thousand years later, the influence of his mission is still deeply felt—Malta remains one of the most devoutly Christian nations in Europe, with Catholicism firmly woven into its culture and identity.

Island of St Paul/Island Believed to be Where the Apostle Paul Shipwrecked

Selmun Palace and Its Forgotten Past

I’ve always had a fascination with abandoned buildings, and Malta does not disappoint. One of the most striking examples is Selmun Palace, built in the 1600s. Today it sits quietly abandoned, standing beside the ruins of an old hotel, its walls still hinting at former grandeur.

A Retreat for the Knights of St. John

Selmun Palace wasn’t just another aristocratic residence. It once served as a retreat for the Knights of St. John, where the crusading order could rest and recover between battles with the Muslim Ottomans. Imagining these warrior monks, who left such a profound mark on Maltese history, walking the palace halls added weight to the crumbling stonework before me.

Selmund Palace

Manoel Fort Entrance

Exploring Manoel Island

Overlooking Valletta

Manoel Island sits across the bay from the old city of Valletta, and from the moment I set foot on it, I knew this was exactly the kind of place I had come to Malta to see. Like everywhere else on the island, Manoel carries layer upon layer of history—a story written in stone, tunnels, and ruins.

A Fortress of the Knights of St. John

At the tip of the island stands Fort Manoel, originally built in the 1600s by the Knights of St. John. To bolster their defenses, the knights carved an extensive network of tunnels beneath the fort, which were said to stretch all the way to the island’s hospital. Later, the British took over the fort, using it in the Crimean War and again during World War II, when Malta endured relentless Nazi bombings.

The Quarantine Hospital

Among the island’s other ruins is the Lazzaretto Hospital, a place of grim history. For centuries, it served as a quarantine facility, isolating thousands of plague victims. Walking its empty halls—or in my case, swimming into its water-access tunnel—was haunting. As I explored, I couldn’t help but imagine the desperation and fear that once filled its walls. Locals say the place is haunted, and legends tell of a “dark knight” apparition still watching from the shadows.

A Fort in Ruin

Today, the fort and its surrounding military buildings remain abandoned. Fences block off unstable sections, and the massive moat surrounding the fort kept me from venturing inside. My main goal was to find the legendary underground tunnels, flashlight in hand. I located several possible entrances, but sadly, they were all sealed with stone or barred with metal.

A Place to Rest and Reflect

Even without access to the tunnels, Manoel Island was a joy to explore. The highlight of my visit was cooling off in a small rock pool at the island’s edge, with sweeping views of Valletta rising across the bay. Later, I swam along the shoreline, slipping into the old hospital’s tunnel entrance. For a brief moment, I stood inside, water dripping around me, imagining the hospital in its plague years—a chilling but unforgettable experience.

A Changing Future

For now, Manoel Island still feels wild and mysterious. But that magic won’t last forever. A private company that owns the land plans to transform it with modern apartments and a parking ramp. While the fort and hospital are set to be preserved, the character of the island will inevitably change. I am grateful I was able to experience it in its current raw and eerie state, before the development reshapes it permanently.

Manoel Fort

British World War II Houses

British World War II Houses

Swimming in the man made pool on the bay overlooking Valletta Old Town

Paula Looking at Valletta Old Town

Rabat: Malta’s Ancient Heart

A City of Layers

On our last day in Malta, we woke early and drove to Rabat, one of the island’s oldest cities. Perched on a hilltop and encircled by fortress walls, Rabat has been continuously inhabited since Roman times. Centuries later, it also served the Knights of St. John, leaving behind a rich blend of history in its streets and architecture.

The Catacombs of the Early Christians

What fascinated me most, however, lay beneath the city. Rabat is home to a network of underground catacombs used by early Christians nearly two thousand years ago. These labyrinthine burial chambers, carved into the rock, offered both a sacred resting place for the dead and a glimpse into the resilience of Malta’s earliest Christian community.

Walking the alleys of the old city

Walking the alleys of old cities 

Catacombs

The Cave of St. Paul

Not far from the catacombs, we visited a cave that today lies beneath a church. Tradition holds that this was the very place where the Apostle Paul sheltered during the winter after his shipwreck on Malta.

The Legend of the Snake Bite

According to the story, Paul was bitten by a venomous snake while in the presence of Roman soldiers. When he showed no ill effects, the onlookers believed it to be a miracle. His reputation grew instantly, and he soon healed the father of the Roman governor, further cementing his status as a holy man.

A Lasting Legacy

Standing inside the cave, it was easy to sense why the site has remained sacred for centuries. The episode marked the beginning of Malta’s deep and enduring Christian identity—a faith that continues to define the island to this day.

St. John’s Grotto

The Cliffs of Dingli

Our final stop in Malta was the cliffs of Dingli, the island’s highest point. Rising dramatically above the Mediterranean, the cliffs offered sweeping views of the sea and the rugged coastline below. It was a perfect farewell to Malta—raw, natural, and strikingly beautiful.

Departure to Switzerland

From Dingli, we drove back across the island to the airport and caught our afternoon flight bound for Zurich, Switzerland. As the plane lifted off, I looked down at the tiny island, reflecting on how much history, mystery, and beauty it had managed to pack into just two days of exploration.

Dingli Cliffs