Journey to Tanna, Vanuatu: A Real-Life Joe vs. the Volcano

A Movie That Inspired My Imagination

I often connect my travels to films, and for my trip to Vanuatu, one of my all-time favorites immediately came to mind: Joe vs. the Volcano. In this quirky, fairytale-like movie, Tom Hanks plays a young man stuck in a passionless life who suddenly believes he’s dying. A wealthy businessman offers him one last chance at adventure: travel to a remote South Pacific island and sacrifice himself by jumping into a volcano, the “Big Wu,” to appease the angry volcano Gods and save the tribe in exchange for the tribe relinquishing its valuable mineral rights to the wealthy businessman. 

The tribe on the island has no volunteers for this ritual, so Joe steps up—living fully for the first time as he prepares for his final act. The story blends whimsy, exoticism, and myth in a way that feels larger than life.

Discovering My Own “Big Wu”

For me, the island of Tanna in Vanuatu embodied that same blend of magic and mystery. Tanna is a remote island dominated by an active volcano, its slopes blanketed in dense rainforest. Scattered around the island are traditional villages, where people still live by ancestral customs. Many believe that maintaining these old ways—rituals, dress, and spiritual practices—keeps them close to the spirits of their ancestors.

Stepping foot on Tanna, I felt as though I had found the real-life island from Joe vs. the Volcano. It was wild, otherworldly, and alive with energy.

A Multi-Country South Pacific Adventure

My visit to Tanna was part of a larger journey that also took me through the Solomon Islands and Fiji. Yet Tanna stood apart. With its fiery heart—the volcano—surrounded by lush jungle and villages steeped in tradition, it felt like stepping into a myth.

For years, I had wanted to find a place like this, a place that matched the dreamlike exoticism of the film. On Tanna, I finally did.

Location of Tanna, Vanuatu in South Pacific

Arriving in Vanuatu: A Remote South Pacific Archipelago

An Island Nation with Many Influences

Vanuatu is a remote island chain in the South Pacific, home to Melanesian people whose cultures and traditions remain vibrant today. Over the centuries, the islands were colonized at different times by Spain, France, and England. Each left behind traces of influence, though it was the British who ultimately had the greatest impact, especially during World War II when both they and the Americans established a strong presence in the region.

Getting There

Reaching Vanuatu was a journey in itself. I flew from Los Angeles to Fiji on Fijian Airways, then onward to the Solomon Islands before finally arriving in Vanuatu’s capital, Port Vila.

Port Vila: The Gateway to Vanuatu

Port Vila is the country’s main hub, a modernized and westernized city with resorts catering primarily to Australian and New Zealand tourists. While it’s lively and convenient, I found myself less drawn to it—the real appeal of Vanuatu lay beyond, on the outer islands.

Flying to Tanna

I planned four nights in Vanuatu: two in Port Vila and two on the island of Tanna. To reach Tanna, I boarded a small prop plane with only six other passengers. The flight itself felt like an adventure. As I discovered upon arrival, ours was the first flight in weeks, since Tanna had recently been pounded by a typhoon. The storm had left its scars on the island, but it hadn’t diminished its spirit.

The Magical Island of Tanna

A World Apart from Port Vila

When I arrived in Tanna, it immediately felt like stepping into another world compared to Port Vila. The island is remote, undeveloped, and sparsely populated. Villages are built from thatch, blending seamlessly into the lush landscape, and the few roads that exist are rough tracks only navigable by rugged 4WD trucks.

Nima Guesthouse with a Volcano View

I had arranged to stay at a local guesthouse called Nima, perched in the middle of the island with a view of the mighty Yasur Volcano. The accommodation was simple but authentic, offering the perfect vantage point for one of the most dramatic natural spectacles in the South Pacific.

Meeting Oesso

At the airport, I was greeted by Oesso, one of the guesthouse managers and a local from Tanna. With a wide smile and easygoing demeanor, he immediately made me feel welcome. Together, we climbed into the back of a shared pick-up truck, the island’s version of a taxi.

The Marketplace Stop

On the way to the guesthouse, we stopped at a lively marketplace. Women in colorful island dresses sat on the ground selling kava roots, bundles of vegetables, tropical fruits, and even pigs. The scene was vibrant and chaotic, yet deeply traditional—a glimpse into daily life that has changed little over generations.

Shared Taxi in Tanna Island-typical mode oftransport for locals on the back of the truck

Into the Heart of Tanna

The Road to Nima Guesthouse

From the market, we set off up a rutted, muddy 4WD track into the jungle-clad hinterlands. The road was horrendous, but Oesso laughed and promised me it was “a good road” compared to the one we would later take to Yasur Volcano. The recent typhoon had only worsened its condition, turning an already rough track into a muddy challenge.

At last, we reached Nima Guesthouse, perched on a hilltop with a cool breeze and sweeping views of Yasur Volcano and the Pacific Ocean. It was tucked in a quiet rural village, far removed from the modern world. Maybe it was the off-season, but I felt like I had the entire island to myself—exactly what I had been hoping for.

Exploring from a Village Base

The guesthouse served as my base for exploring Tanna. With a local guide from the village, I hiked along ancestral footpaths that had been used for generations. These trails wound through deep, jungle-clad ravines, across streams, and into remote villages where life carried on much as it always had.

The villages were striking in their simplicity: thatched houses with no electricity, pigs wandering freely, and a blend of Christianity and traditional beliefs. Though most people wore Western clothes, the culture felt deeply rooted in the old ways.

Black-Sand Beaches and Waterfalls

One hike led me to a deserted volcanic beach of black sand—wild, windswept, and completely isolated. From there, I continued on to a waterfall tucked into the jungle near the coast. I swam in the cool pool at its base, surrounded by nothing but the sounds of water and birdsong.

A Night at the Kava Bar

One of the most fascinating experiences on Tanna was visiting a local kava bar. These were simple wooden sheds, lit by candlelight, where villagers gathered at night. Inside, an attendant mixed kava root with water in a plastic bucket, serving the cloudy, soapy-tasting drink in small coconut cups.

Before drinking, a short ritual was performed, and then the kava was sipped slowly. Almost immediately, I felt a tingly numbness on my tongue, followed by a wave of relaxation. Sitting in the glow of candles, surrounded by locals, I felt connected to an ancient tradition that has been part of island life for centuries.

Hiking through the jungle in between villages

Typical village

Volcanic sand beach

Village girl I met on the beach

Drinking kava at the kava bar at night

The Fire Heart of Tanna

Journey to Yasur Volcano

The star attraction of Tanna Island is without question Yasur Volcano. For centuries, it has dominated both the landscape and the lives of the people who call the island home. Even Captain Cook, when he sailed past Vanuatu in the 1700s, recorded the fiery red glow of Yasur’s eruptions illuminating the night sky.

A Volcano That Never Sleeps

Yasur is considered one of the most reliable volcanoes in the world for observing activity. It is almost always alive—belching ash, roaring with energy, and hurling lava bombs into the air. Visitors can usually approach its rim safely, provided the volcano isn’t having one of its “bad days.”

The Rough Road to Fire

Getting there is part of the adventure. The typhoon that had recently battered the island left the road in ruins. The muddy track wound through thick jungle and small villages, testing the limits of our 4WD. More than once, we found ourselves stuck axle-deep in mud, forcing us to push and claw our way forward.

When Yasur finally came into view, glowing in the distance, the struggle of the journey only magnified its power. It felt as though we were approaching the very heartbeat of the island itself.

Stuck on the way to Yasur Volcano

Yasur Volcano in the distance

The Ascent to Yasur

The Road of Ash and Mud

After a simple but hearty lunch at my guesthouse, Oesso—my host and guide—loaded me into his 4WD pickup. We were bound for the afternoon lava show at Yasur Volcano. From miles away I could already see ash plumes rising into the sky and hear the distant booms of explosions. The volcano was alive, and I knew it wouldn’t disappoint.

The road, however, lived up to Oesso’s warning. It was terrible—muddy, cratered, and nearly impassable in places. More than once we had to dig ourselves out of the muck, and I cracked my head on the roof of the truck during bone-jarring bumps. After a few grueling hours, we finally reached the base: a barren dirt lot serving as the volcano’s parking area.

The Empty Approach

To my surprise, we were the only visitors. A single local man sat at the edge of the lot, quietly collecting entrance fees. After a brief greeting and a quick nod of approval, I set off with Oesso on the steep 30-minute hike up to the rim.

When we reached the top, the volcano loomed before us. I could see the crater a few hundred feet away, but the activity seemed subdued at first. I held back at a safe distance, waiting to gauge the danger.

When the Mountain Woke

For twenty minutes, nothing happened. Then, just as I turned on my video camera, the earth beneath me convulsed. A deafening roar filled the air as lava bombs exploded skyward, hissing and glowing as they arced high above me.

In that split second, panic surged through me. My instinct was to run. But before I could, Oesso sprinted up, grabbed my arm, and calmly ordered me to stop.

“Don’t run. Watch where they fall. Then move.”

We stood our ground, eyes darting skyward, tracking the fiery projectiles. Lava bombs slammed into the earth all around us—behind, in front, to the side. One the size of a truck landed just 30 feet from where I had been standing moments earlier, still glowing red and smoking as it embedded itself in the slope.

Too Dangerous to Stay

Oesso shook his head. “Level 4,” he said. “Too dangerous now.”

We made our way back down carefully, hearts pounding. Even the parking lot wasn’t safe. We retreated farther downhill until we reached a vantage point where the fury of the volcano could be watched from a safer distance.

From there, we sat in disbelief as Yasur rained destruction on the very ridge we had just occupied. Oesso told me grimly of past tragedies—how his own relative and a tourist had once been killed instantly by a rogue lava bomb, the impact so violent it decapitated them both. It was a sobering reminder: this volcano gives no warnings, and it takes lives without hesitation.

Yasur Volcanic Explosion that sent lava bombs raining down upon me

Giant lava bomb the size of a truck that landed near where I was just standing

Visiting a Kastom Village on Tanna

Holding On to Ancient Ways

Most villages on Tanna live a hybrid lifestyle—traditional in many ways, but blended with Christianity, English language, and Western clothing. Yet a few communities have taken a very different path. Known as kastom villages, these communities deliberately reject most outside influence. Here, men still wear penis sheaths, women grass skirts, children grow up without formal schooling, and the people speak only their local language.

They believe that Western influence severs their connection to the spirits of their ancestors and that true happiness lies in preserving their customs, rituals, and beliefs. Still, kastom villages understand the practical value of foreign visitors: entry is allowed with the permission of the chief, usually in exchange for a small donation.

Entering Yakel Village

I visited Yakel Village, a kastom village famous for preserving its ancient way of life. At first, I wasn’t sure if a visit would be possible—the chief had recently died, and the village had been closed to outsiders for nearly a year. The new chief was hesitant to allow foreigners in. Thankfully, my driver Oesso was able to secure permission.

When I arrived, I found most of the men gathered beneath a giant banyan tree, sacred to the community and traditionally used as a meeting place. To welcome me, the villagers stopped what they were doing and performed a dance and song just for me.

A World Apart

The scene was surreal. Women in grass skirts and topless, men and boys wearing penis sheaths, and children who reacted to me in wildly different ways—some screamed in fear at the sight of a foreigner, while others smiled, curious and playful. Few villagers spoke English, and those who did knew only a handful of words.

One of the elders showed me around the village, pointing out stone idols that represented ancestral spirits. The air was thick with tradition, and it felt like stepping back centuries into a way of life almost untouched by modernity.

The Prince Philip Connection

When I asked about the new chief, I was told something surprising: he was in England. Evidently, a British reality show had flown him there to meet Prince Philip.

To my astonishment, I learned that Yakel and other kastom villages believe Prince Philip to be a reincarnated chief from Tanna. According to their prophecy, this ancestral figure would be reborn with white skin, cross the seas, marry a powerful woman, and someday return to Tanna. Prince Philip’s 1950s visit, when he brought gifts and supplies to the island, was seen as proof of this prophecy.

To the villagers, Prince Philip became a near-divine figure—a spiritual leader akin to Jesus. They proudly showed me photographs of him, a reminder of how deeply this unusual belief has taken root in their culture.

Yaken Village

kastom Villagers, Yakel

Me at Yakel Village

Yakel Village Idols

Kid who just finished crying when first seeing me

Yakel Village girl

Into Tanna’s Interior

Villages Beyond the Road

Tanna is a large island with very little infrastructure, and while Yakel and other kastom villages along the roadside are fascinating, they are also the most accessible—and therefore the most visited. The real intrigue lies deeper in the island’s rugged interior, where some villages can only be reached on foot.

When I asked the people of Yakel if there were other kastom villages farther inland, they nodded and told me yes, there were—hidden communities that could be reached with a guide after a day’s trek through jungle and mountains.

A Journey Left for Next Time

The thought of walking into Tanna’s interior to discover these remote villages was incredibly appealing. These are places few outsiders ever see, where traditions remain even stronger and the pace of life even slower. Unfortunately, my time was short.

The next morning, I boarded a small plane, leaving Tanna behind as I flew to Port Vila and onward to Fiji. Yet the idea of returning one day, to trek into the untouched heart of the island, stayed with me.