Swimming with Moby Dick
Dominica: The Caribbean’s Untouched Eco-Paradise
I categorize Caribbean countries into two types: large, bustling nations and smaller, quieter islands. I tend to prefer the latter, and Dominica fits this description perfectly—a relaxed, idyllic eco-tourism haven untouched by mass tourism.
Unlike its neighboring islands, Dominica lacks white sand beaches, which means it has escaped the grip of mega-resorts and cruise ship crowds. But what it lacks in beaches, it more than makes up for in natural beauty:
✔ The most pristine rainforest in the Caribbean
✔ Bubbling geothermal lakes & volcanic activity
✔ Dramatic waterfalls hidden in lush jungle landscapes
But the main reason I came to Dominica was not for the rainforest or volcanoes—it was for the Sperm Whales.
A Once-in-a-Lifetime Encounter with Sperm Whales
Dominica is one of the best places in the world to see Sperm Whales, thanks to its resident population that lives off the coast year-round. Unlike other whale-watching destinations, here you can see them not just from a boat—but also while swimming alongside them in the open ocean.
That was my ultimate goal—to come face to face with the world’s largest toothed predator beneath the waves.
So, as part of our multi-country Caribbean adventure, my wife, Paula, and I set off to Dominica, eager to experience the wild heart of the Caribbean.
Map of Dominica
The Sperm Whale Whisperer of Dominica
I first learned about Dominica’s Sperm Whales ten years ago through a National Geographic article. The story that captivated me was about a local man who formed a bond with an orphaned baby Sperm Whale—an extraordinary relationship that earned him the nickname “The Sperm Whale Whisperer.”
After losing its mother, the young whale developed a deep trust with this man, allowing him to swim alongside it and capture stunning underwater photos. His story gained international attention, leading him to start a business guiding professional photographers on snorkeling trips with Sperm Whales.
Chasing the Dream: A Once-Seemingly Impossible Experience
For years, I tried to organize my own Sperm Whale snorkeling trip, reaching out to dive operators and government contacts. But I quickly learned that:
✔ Permits to swim with the whales were extremely limited
✔ The cost was shockingly high
I eventually gave up on the idea, believing it was beyond reach—until I finally decided to plan a trip to Dominica.
Tracking Down the Whale Whisperer
Determined to make it happen, I did some online sleuthing and discovered the real name and contact information of the Sperm Whale Whisperer himself. Taking a chance, I reached out directly, and to my surprise, he agreed to take Paula and me out on his Boston Whaler to search for whales.
But he was quick to remind me—there was no guarantee we would find any whales. We would try our best and hope for a once-in-a-lifetime encounter.
About Sperm Whales in Dominica
Why Dominica is a Sperm Whale Haven
Dominica is the only country in the world with a resident population of Sperm Whales. This is due to a deep underwater canyon just off the island’s coast, which plunges to depths of 8,000 feet—the perfect hunting ground for their primary food source, the giant squid.
Masters of the Deep
Even though the ocean depths are pitch black, Sperm Whales are perfectly adapted for hunting in total darkness. They:
✔ Hold their breath for over 20 minutes, diving to the bottom of the canyon
✔ Use echolocation to track prey in the abyss
✔ Kill giant squid by ramming them with their massive heads before swallowing them whole
A Battle of Giants: Sperm Whales vs. Giant Squid
The giant squid is a formidable adversary, growing up to 60–70 feet long and weighing over a ton. These elusive creatures have sharp claws on their tentacles and a powerful beak, capable of inflicting deep wounds.
Many of the Sperm Whales in Dominica bear battle scars—evidence of intense underwater battles between predator and prey.
The World’s Largest Toothed Predator
Sperm Whales hold the title as the largest toothed predator on Earth:
🐋 Up to 60 feet long
🐋 Weighing 50 tons
🐋 Once hunted to the brink of extinction for the oil in their heads
Gentle Giants of the Ocean
Despite their immense size and fearsome abilities, Sperm Whales are surprisingly gentle.
As we swam in the open ocean, these majestic creatures swam incredibly close, giving us a curious glance before gracefully diving back into the abyss.
Even though they could easily crush us like a gnat in the water, their intelligence and gentle nature made the experience all the more humbling and awe-inspiring.
View of Roseau
Our Boat
How I Organized the Trip
The Challenges of Organizing the Trip
Setting up our Sperm Whale snorkeling adventure was far from easy.
🔹 My contact was not very responsive, making communication frustrating.
🔹 Details about the boat and meeting location were unclear until the day before the trip.
🔹 Finding him in the bustling streets of Roseau was a challenge, and it took some effort to track down the obscure dock where his friend’s boat was moored.
The Permit Dilemma
One of my biggest concerns was obtaining a permit, as I had read from multiple sources that:
✔ Permits are extremely limited and expensive (costing thousands of dollars).
✔ They can be difficult to obtain without inside connections.
When my contact casually assured me he had a permit, I was skeptical. I wasn’t sure if we were actually authorized to be in the water with the whales, but at that point, I decided to trust the process and go for it.
I figured that if we were stopped by authorities, at the very least, I had a text message from him claiming we had permission—which, while not exactly official, was better than nothing!
Paula ready for snorkeling
A Private Ocean Adventure
Paula and I had the boat entirely to ourselves, making the experience feel even more exclusive and personal.
Aside from our guide, the only others onboard were the captain and his 10-year-old son—a simple but skilled crew ready to take us out into the deep waters of Dominica’s coast.
Supplies for the Journey
For food and drink, we had:
🥤 A cooler stocked with water (essential for the long day ahead).
🍹 Plenty of Rum Punch (because, well, it’s the Caribbean).
🥪 A few sandwiches (simple but enough to keep us fueled for the adventure).
With clear skies above and endless blue waters ahead, we set off—hoping that somewhere in the depths, the Sperm Whales were waiting for us.
Captain’s son
Swimming with Giants
The Search for Sperm Whales
We traveled nearly 30 miles from the coast along Dominica’s western waters, scanning the ocean for any signs of life. For the first few hours, there was nothing—no water spouts, no flukes, just the vast open sea stretching endlessly before us.
Our captain, positioned high up on the boat, kept watch, while our guide used a hydrophone—a specialized underwater microphone—to listen for whale clicks, the distinct sounds they use for communication and navigation.
After some time, he picked up faint clicks and estimated the whales were a few miles west. A part of me was skeptical—was he just telling us what we wanted to hear?
But before I could finish that thought, the captain suddenly shouted—“Whales ahead! Get ready!”
A Heart-Pounding First Encounter
Paula and I frantically threw on our snorkels and fins as I grabbed the GoPro. Paula had a wetsuit, while I had only a rash guard—I didn’t care; I just wanted to be in the water immediately.
Before I could even spot the whale, we jumped in.
The moment I dipped my head underwater, I was hit with an overwhelming sight—a massive, shadowy figure emerging from the deep, coming directly toward us like a submarine.
At that moment, I wasn’t sure if I should be excited or terrified.
Face to Face with a Giant
I instinctively kept Paula behind me, as if I could somehow protect her in open water—but the truth was, if the whale decided to charge, there was nothing we could do.
From just 30 feet away, the giant Sperm Whale moved toward us with impossible grace, then, with an effortless flick of its enormous tail, it dove down beneath us, disappearing into the dark abyss below.
It was a humbling moment—one that sent shivers down my spine.
We were floating in 8,000 feet of open ocean, in the same realm as giant squid and countless other deep-sea creatures—the very reason these majestic whales call this place home.
The sheer depth and mystery of what lay below us was sobering—and for the first time, I truly understood just how small we are in the vastness of the ocean.
Mother with baby Sperm Whale
An Unbelievable Streak of Encounters
After our first incredible encounter, we climbed back onto the boat, still in awe of what we had just experienced. The captain turned to us, shaking his head, and said, “You’re lucky. I just did a multi-day trip and saw nothing.”
I would have been thrilled with just one sighting, but it turned out our luck was just getting started.
For the next few hours, we came across whale after whale.
🐋 Every time we spotted one, we jumped in again and again—so much so that we were becoming physically exhausted.
🐋 Our guide snorkeled alongside us, keeping an eye on Paula, who wasn’t completely comfortable in open water.
🐋 He also read the whales’ behavior, making sure we stayed safe and respected their space.
A Fearless First-Timer
One of the most incredible moments was watching the captain’s 10-year-old son experience this for the first time.
Despite being his first time swimming with whales, he was just as excited as we were—if not more. But what truly shocked me was his fearlessness.
At one point, we encountered a large mother whale with her calf. While Paula and I watched from a respectful distance, the boy swam right up to the mother and touched her.
For a split second, I held my breath, unsure of what would happen next.
But instead of reacting aggressively, the mother whale remained completely calm, as if she understood he meant no harm.
It was a moment that perfectly captured the magic of the experience—the sheer awe of being in the presence of these giants, the childlike wonder, and the unexpected connection between humans and whales in the vast blue depths of the ocean.
Paula snorkeling in the deep ocean
The Thrill and Terror of the Open Ocean
Snorkeling in the deep blue abyss, with nothing but thousands of feet of water beneath us, was both exhilarating and unnerving. Knowing that we were floating over giant squid, Sperm Whales, and tiger sharks lurking somewhere below added an extra edge of vulnerability—especially being so far from shore.
Drifting Away from the Boat
To make things even more intense, each time we jumped into the water, our boat backed off to avoid disturbing the whales. This meant that at times, we were hundreds of yards away from our only lifeline—drifting in the vast, open ocean with nothing but endless blue in every direction.
We had ocean swimming fins, which helped us move with speed, but the distance between us and the boat was always in the back of my mind.
A Plan for Tiger Sharks… Just in Case
To ease my nerves, I kept my GoPro stick fully extended, telling myself that if we encountered a shark, I could use it as a weapon—a thin comfort, but better than nothing.
When I asked our guide about sharks, he didn’t try to downplay the risk.
🐋 “We do see tiger sharks from time to time while snorkeling with the whales,” he admitted.
That was all I needed to hear to keep my head on a constant swivel—aware that at any moment, we weren’t just swimming with whales… we were entering the hunting grounds of one of the ocean’s most formidable predators.
Me in the water with a Sperm Whale
The Ultimate Whale Encounter: Surrounded by Giants
We had many unforgettable encounters, but one moment stood above the rest—an experience so surreal that it felt like something out of a dream.
As we slipped into the water, we quickly realized we were not just near a whale—we were caught in between two sets of them.
🐋 On one side: Two adolescent male whales, playful and curious.
🐋 On the other: A mother and her calf, gliding gracefully through the deep.
A Humbled Presence in the Whale’s World
For a moment, we simply floated in awe, watching as these massive creatures passed within 20 feet of us on both sides.
It was humbling beyond words—a realization that, in this moment, we were completely at their mercy.
🐋 With a flick of their tails, they could send us flying.
🐋 With one miscalculated movement, they could crush us.
🐋 And yet, they moved with effortless grace, as if they barely noticed our presence.
Being so close to these gentle giants in their natural world was a once-in-a-lifetime moment—one that left me feeling small, vulnerable, and completely in awe of the power and intelligence of these incredible creatures.
Paula in the water with a Sperm Whale
Mother whale diving
The group in the water with whales
Exhausted but Overwhelmed with Awe
Over the course of eight hours at sea, we swam with so many whales that we were physically exhausted.
🐋 The whales would surface for about 20 minutes, allowing us to swim alongside them.
🐋 Then, with a deep breath and a flick of their tails, they would dive down for 30 minutes, vanishing into the abyss—only to resurface miles away.
🐋 There were multiple groups of whales in the area, and our guide seemed to know them all by name, recognizing them by their scars and markings.
A Rare and Untouched Experience
One of the most surreal aspects of the experience was how isolated we were.
✔ No other snorkeling boats—it felt like we had the entire ocean to ourselves.
✔ Almost no marine traffic this far from shore—just us and the whales in their vast, deep-sea world.
A Whale’s Final Goodbye… in the Strangest Way Possible
The whales were just as fascinating to watch above the surface as they were below.
On one occasion, we noticed a whale spewing a dark cloud into the water.
Our guide immediately identified it—whale excrement.
As the cloud dispersed, I spotted something unexpected floating in the water—small pieces of giant squid claws and beak.
It was a bizarre but incredible moment—a literal glimpse into the deep-sea battles between Sperm Whales and their elusive prey. Seeing physical evidence of a giant squid in the wild, even if it was just leftovers, was something I never imagined I’d witness firsthand.
Mother and baby
Me in the water with a Sperm Whale
An Unforgettable Encounter
As we headed back to shore, our guide marveled at our incredible luck—we were well outside the peak whale season (winter to early spring), yet we had encountered countless whales.
The one missing giant? A bull male—solitary behemoths that only appear in spring for mating season, rarely staying long before vanishing into the deep.
Though we didn’t see one, the thought of a 60-foot titan patrolling the abyss was humbling.
As Dominica’s coastline reappeared, I felt grateful beyond words—for the whales, the ocean, and the rare privilege of sharing a moment in their world.
Emerald Pool
A Visit to Emerald Pool: Not Quite the Solitude We Expected
After an unforgettable day swimming with whales, we decided to explore Dominica’s lush rainforest and visit Emerald Pool, one of the island’s most famous waterfalls.
Being July (off-peak season) and with no cruise ships in port, I assumed we’d have the waterfall all to ourselves.
Jungle Beauty & Unexpected Company
The interior mountains and jungle didn’t disappoint—lush, vibrant, and teeming with life.
🦎 We spotted colorful chameleons and unique tropical plants.
🌿 The dense rainforest felt wild and untouched.
But when we arrived at Emerald Pool, we quickly realized we weren’t alone.
Instead of cruise ship crowds, the waterfall was filled with locals, enjoying their Sunday barbecues and blasting music from a portable stereo while swimming in the falls.
Final Verdict: Skip It for Something More Remote
While Emerald Pool is beautiful, my recommendation?
💡 Skip it and visit one of Dominica’s lesser-known waterfalls—there are plenty of hidden gems where you’re far more likely to have the experience all to yourself.
Emerald Pool with Locals Swimming
Our Treehouse Accommodation in Toucari Town
A Hidden Paradise: Staying in Toucari
For our base in Dominica, I chose Toucari, a small, undeveloped town on a secluded bay in the northwest.
✔ No resorts—just locals and untouched nature
✔ Tucked away in jungle-clad mountains
✔ A true off-the-grid experience
Our Jungle Cabin
I booked a stilted cabin in the rainforest, giving it the feel of a treehouse. Finding it on rutty dirt tracks in a low-clearance rental car—at night—was an adventure in itself.
But once we arrived…
🌿 The views were incredible—overlooking the bay and dense rainforest
🌧️ We slept with open windows, falling asleep to the soothing chorus of rain and jungle sounds
🦟 The only downside? Mosquitoes. Without them, this place would have been absolute paradise.
View from our room
Our porch
Toucari: A Laid-Back Local Gem
Toucari is an authentic Caribbean town, mostly locals, no tourists.
✔ Small beach bars serving fresh seafood & rum
✔ Easy to hire a local fisherman for snorkeling trips
Snorkeling Among Champagne Bubbles
For half a day, we explored the waters from a small fishing boat, discovering:
🐠 Champagne bubbles—gas bubbles rising from the seafloor due to geothermal activity
🐚 Fountain corals—massive, vibrant reef formations
🚢 A shallow shipwreck from the 1700s, eerily preserved beneath the waves
🌊 The meeting of two oceans—where the rough Atlantic collides with the calm Caribbean
Toucari offered exactly what we were looking for—raw nature, authentic experiences, and a true escape from the crowds.
View of Toucari from our boat
Shipwreck from the 1700’s that we snorkeled. There wasn’t much left of it but you could definitely see the outline of the ship that is mostly overgrown by marine animals now
Sunsets Are Incredible in Dominica
Exploring Dominica in Our Rental Car
Exploring Dominica’s North: A Lesson in Island Travel
On our last full day, we set out to explore the northern part of the island. My original plan was to circle the entire island, but I quickly realized:
🛣️ The roads are small, rugged, and incredibly hilly
🐢 Driving is slow-going, making long-distance exploration unrealistic
The Joy of Getting Lost… and the Frustration of Getting Stuck
We decided to embrace the adventure, taking mountain tracks just to see where they led—often with no real plan.
✔ Purposely getting lost? Fun.
✖ Getting stuck? Not so fun.
Navigating Dominica’s wild, untamed terrain reminded me that this island is best explored in sections—pick one area and immerse yourself in it, rather than trying to rush through everything.
Mountain roads-many on really bad dirt tracks
Exploring Cabrits Fort: A Step Back in Time
One of the highlights of our northern Dominica exploration was Cabrits Fort, a historic British colonial-era stronghold surrounded by lush jungle and breathtaking ocean views.
🏰 Built in the 1700s, the fort witnessed intense battles between the French and British for control of the island.
Despite the heat, we hiked the full loop, exploring:
✔ Ruined British buildings—Officers’ Quarters, an old prison
✔ Dramatic sea cliffs with incredible panoramic views
✔ Dense rainforest trails leading back to the main fortress
A Must-Visit Attraction
Cabrits Fort is a hidden gem—a perfect mix of history, nature, and stunning scenery. If you visit Dominica, this is one attraction you shouldn’t miss!
Paula in front of the Old British officers’ Quarters
British Cannons Directed to the Approach path of an Enemy Navy
Paula in Front of the Abandoned British Prison Building
Syndicate Falls: A Hidden Gem in Dominica’s Rainforest
Despite its unusual name, Syndicate Falls turned out to be one of the most beautiful and secluded waterfalls we visited.
🌧️ It was raining when we arrived, and at this high elevation, the rain was cold—forcing us to take cover under a palm tree for a while.
The Journey: Half the Adventure
Reaching the falls was an adventure in itself:
🚙 A steep, narrow drive through the mountains and rainforest
📍 Some trial-and-error navigation (and help from locals) to find the right spot
🌿 A muddy, slippery mile-long hike down into a canyon
A Magical Encounter with Nature
Once we arrived:
💦 We soaked in the freezing water, taking in the raw beauty of the falls
🦜 Above us, endangered Dominican green parrots—found only on this island—flew overhead, squawking loudly
A True Hidden Paradise
Syndicate Falls offered everything we love about Dominica—off-the-beaten-path adventure, untouched rainforest, and a complete escape from crowds. Highly recommended for anyone looking for a true Caribbean wilderness experience!
Paula at Syndicate Falls
Paula at Syndicate Falls
Ghecko we met on the trail
What I Would Do Next Visit
A Future Return to Dominica: What’s Next?
If I’m lucky enough to return to Dominica, I’ll definitely:
✔ Do more hiking in the mountains
✔ Visit during the dry season (winter) for better conditions
Some must-see spots for next time:
🏔️ Boiling Lake
🔥 One of the largest geothermal lakes in the world
🥾 A full-day rainforest hike—one of the island’s toughest
🌧️ We planned to do it, but heavy rain made it too dangerous
🏡 Carib Indian Reserve
🗿 Home of the indigenous Carib people, whom the Caribbean is named after
🏡 A Carib homestay would offer deep cultural and historical insight
🐢 Sea Turtle Nesting & Southeast Waterfalls
🌊 Community-guarded beaches where thousands of sea turtles lay eggs
💦 Untouched waterfalls in Dominica’s remote southeast—guaranteed solitude
Too Many Places, Too Little Time!
Dominica has so much more to offer, and I know I’ve only scratched the surface. One trip isn’t enough!