Lake Malawi Interlude on a Multi-Country African Journey

March 2022: As part of a longer, multi-country journey through Africa, my wife, a friend, and I carved out three nights and four days to visit Malawi. Our time was brief by design, but intentional—this was a focused detour rather than a broad exploration of the country.

Arrival in Malawi
A Short but Purposeful Detour

The stop in Malawi was never meant to be rushed or superficial. Even with limited time, we wanted to experience something defining and deeply tied to the country’s natural identity.

Why Malawi
Drawn to the Lake

For me, the overwhelming pull of Malawi was Lake Malawi itself. Stretching like an inland sea along the country’s eastern edge, the lake is famed for its remarkable clarity and for holding the greatest diversity of tropical freshwater fish found anywhere on Earth. That distinction alone made it impossible to ignore.

A Lake-Centered Itinerary
Planning Around Water and Wildlife

With only a few days available, I built our visit entirely around the lake. Instead of hopping between cities or landmarks, we slowed our pace and let Lake Malawi define the experience—a place to swim, observe, and appreciate one of Africa’s most extraordinary freshwater ecosystems.

Malawi’s Background
A Gentle, English-Speaking Corner of Africa

Malawi is a former British colony, and because of this, English is widely spoken across the country. From arranging transport to interacting with locals, communication was straightforward and familiar.

Life in a Rural Nation
Poverty and Perspective

Much of Malawi remains rural, and it is often considered one of the poorest countries in the world. Despite this, the reality on the ground felt far richer in spirit. The people we met were kind, friendly, and remarkably laid-back, carrying themselves with a warmth that seemed woven into everyday life.

The People of Malawi
Warmth as a Way of Life

Malawians are often described as some of the friendliest people in Africa, a reputation that quickly proved true. Smiles were easy, interactions felt genuine, and the relaxed nature of the culture shaped the pace of our entire visit.

A Growing Expat Presence
Drawn by Climate and Cost

In recent years, Malawi has attracted a budding expatriate community. Low costs of living, a tropical climate, and the country’s gentle social atmosphere have combined to create a quiet but noticeable influx of foreigners seeking a simpler, more affordable lifestyle.

Map of Malawi Location

Getting a Visa
An Unexpected Bureaucratic Hurdle

To enter Malawi, an electronic visa had to be arranged in advance. What should have been a straightforward online process turned into weeks of frustration when every one of my credit cards was repeatedly declined during payment. It soon became clear this wasn’t an isolated issue—many other foreign travelers had run into the same problem.

I reached out to Malawian immigration officials and even contacted locals working at a hotel in Malawi, hoping someone might know a workaround. No one did. Then, almost by accident, I tried my mother-in-law’s credit union debit card, fully expecting it to fail as well. To my surprise, it went through instantly. That single stroke of luck spared us the very real risk of being denied entry upon arrival.

Traveling to Malawi
Via Addis Ababa

We reached Malawi on Ethiopian Airlines from Burundi, with an overnight stop in Addis Ababa. The airline provided a transit hotel, making the layover easy and surprisingly smooth before continuing on to our final destination the next morning.

Arrival in Lilongwe
A Sleepy, Rural Capital

We flew into Lilongwe, a quiet capital city with a noticeably rural layout. Rather than a dense urban core, the city felt spread out and subdued, more like a large village than a national capital.

Staying on the Edge of Town
Isolation as a First Impression

Our guesthouse sat on the outskirts of the city, physically and practically removed from almost everything. The isolation became immediately apparent when we tried to order a taxi—there were simply no cars nearby. It took nearly 45 minutes for a driver to reach us, a small but telling introduction to the pace and infrastructure of life in Malawi.

Day 1
Connecting Before Arrival

Before traveling to any country, I make it a habit to join a local expat Facebook group. These communities are invaluable for current, on-the-ground information, and they often lead to unexpected connections with interesting people long before I arrive.

Meeting Kalyn
Reptile Rescue in Lilongwe

Through the Malawi expat group, I connected with an American woman named Kalyn, who lives in Malawi with her Malawian husband. Together, they run a charitable organization in the Lilongwe area focused on rescuing and relocating reptiles—particularly snakes.

Conservation Through Relocation
Changing Local Responses

Their goal is simple but meaningful: encouraging people to call for help when reptiles are found, rather than killing them out of fear. By safely relocating these animals, they promote conservation, protect local wildlife, and gently shift attitudes toward coexistence with creatures that are often misunderstood.

Snake Kalyn found

Supporting Conservation Efforts
Inspired by Past Experiences

I had taken part in a similar reptile rescue and conservation operation years earlier in Bali, Indonesia, where I’d seen king cobras and other native snakes up close. Because of that experience, I’m always eager to support conservation work when the opportunity arises.

Searching for Reptiles Near Lilongwe

Wanting to get involved locally, I coordinated with Kalyn, to meet up and search for reptiles in a wild area near Lilongwe. She identified a lodge surrounded by well-preserved natural habitat, and we agreed it would be a good place to look.

A Late Start
Small Discoveries, Limited Time

Unfortunately, getting there took far longer than expected. Heavy, frustrating traffic left us arriving late, tired, and with little remaining energy to seriously comb the surrounding bush. Even so, the outing wasn’t a total loss—Kalyn managed to find a small, non-venomous snake, offering a modest but satisfying glimpse of the local wildlife.

Hit by a Drunk Driver

Kalyn and her husband generously offered to drive us back to our hotel since taxis were nonexistent in the remote area where we had met, and they were concerned for our safety. What began as an uneventful drive quickly turned into a nightmare. A vehicle ahead of us suddenly swerved into the car in front of it, collided almost head-on, then veered into our lane. We struck it broadside.

The impact was abrupt and frightening, but thankfully not severe. We were traveling at only about 20 mph, and no one in our vehicle was injured. The other driver, however, immediately fled the scene—abandoning his car in the middle of the road with its engine smoking. The reason became obvious at a glance: empty beer bottles littered the interior of his vehicle.

Stranded at Midnight
Waiting for Police That Might Never Come

It was now midnight. We were exhausted, far from our hotel, and still without any taxis available. Kalyn and her husband had no choice but to remain at the scene so the police could document the accident; without an official report, there would be no chance of reimbursement for the damage caused by the drunk driver.

Before long, the driver’s friends began arriving. One insisted the police would never come because “they’re drinking—it’s Saturday night,” and urged that the vehicle, and the evidence, be removed. “We are Malawians. We must look out for one another,” he said—a statement that did little to reassure us.

Standing on the side of a dark road, our small group was beginning to attract unwanted attention. Aware of our fatigue and the growing tension, Kalyn and her husband started calling around to find someone trustworthy to take us back to the hotel, but no one was available. Flagging down random drivers wasn’t an option either; many motorists were likely intoxicated on a Saturday night, and the risk of robbery felt very real.

A Way Out
Help From an Unexpected Bystander

Eventually, one of the bystanders stepped forward and offered to drive us for a small fee. Under the circumstances, we were more than happy to pay. It wasn’t how we imagined ending our first day in Malawi, but the relief of finally heading back to the hotel outweighed everything else.

Drunk drivers car

Day 2
From Lilongwe to Lake Malawi

Early the next morning, I arranged a taxi to take us from Lilongwe to the Senga region of Lake Malawi. Before we could leave the city, however, we had one unavoidable stop to make.

COVID Testing
A Mandatory (and Costly) Detour

To exit Malawi, a PCR COVID test was required. We stopped at a hospital in Lilongwe, where the test cost us nearly 100 USD—a steep price, but not optional if we wanted to continue our travels.

The Drive to the Lake
Two Hours to a Different World

From there, we set off toward Lake Malawi. The drive took roughly two hours, steadily leaving the city behind as the landscape grew greener and more rural.

Safari Beach Lodge
Base Camp on the Lake

Our destination was Safari Beach Lodge, where we stayed in a small bungalow overlooking the water. The lodge sat within a forest reserve right along the lake’s edge, and it immediately felt like the perfect base from which to explore Lake Malawi.

Wildlife at Our Doorstep
Life in the Forest Reserve

From our balcony, we looked directly out over the lake and the surrounding forest. Wildlife visits quickly became part of daily life—lumbering monitor lizards, curious monkeys, and rock hyraxes regularly wandered through the grounds, making the setting feel immersive and alive.

Rock hyrax strangely more genetically related to an elephant than a rodent

Naughty monkeys trying to break into our room

Fisherman

Catch of the Day

Towering Thunderstorms Over Lake

Fishing Boat

Snorkeling Lake Malawi
Boat Trip to Lizard Island

We hired a small fishing boat with a few local men and set off across the lake toward Lizard Island, an hour away by boat. The ride itself was calm and scenic, with the vast expanse of Lake Malawi stretching out in every direction.

Lizard Island
A Jungle-Covered Rock Outcrop

Lizard Island is a small, boulder-studded island thick with jungle and true to its name, home to large numbers of lizards. It is just one of many islands scattered across Lake Malawi, each rising out of the clear water like isolated green worlds. This was where we planned to snorkel and experience the lake’s famous underwater life.

Island Lore
The Story of “No Woman Island”

While on the water, our boat captain pointed toward a distant island and told us its name: No Woman Island. I was instantly intrigued and asked about visiting it, but he shook his head—it was simply too far away.

He went on to explain the origin of its name. According to local belief, women are not allowed on the island because it is inhabited by snakes that will only bite women—and that those bites are fatal. Whether myth or tradition, the story added another layer of mystery to the islands scattered across the lake and hinted at how deeply folklore is woven into life along Lake Malawi’s shores.

Shoreline

Lizard island

Exploring Lizard Island
Jungle Trails and Hidden Lagoons

Once on the island, we hiked through dense, spider-infested jungle to the summit, then continued down the far side to a secluded lagoon. Sheltered and stunning, it was the perfect place to swim.

Swimming Conditions
Rainy Season Realities

The water was clear, though not as crystal-clear as Lake Malawi is known for. It was still the rainy season, and sediment runoff from recent rains reduced visibility. Even so, we were able to spot some of the famous cichlids that make the lake so exceptional.

Lake Malawi’s Famous Fish
Cichlids in Their Natural Habitat

Lake Malawi is home to an astonishing 850 species of cichlids. During the dry season, when visibility improves dramatically, snorkeling or diving among them is said to be spectacular. Although conditions weren’t ideal during our visit, swimming in the refreshingly cool water among massive boulders was still a highlight.

Wildlife Encounters
Fish Eagles Overhead

Around Lizard Island, we caught fleeting glimpses of African fish eagles circling above us, their striking white plumage instantly recognizable. Unfortunately, they moved too quickly for me to get a photo.

An Unplanned Delay
Stranded—Briefly

We ended up spending far longer on the island than planned when our boat’s motor died. The captain borrowed one of our phones to call a friend who owned another boat and asked him to come to our aid. After a long wait, the second boat finally arrived and towed us safely back to our hotel—an unplanned but memorable end to the day on Lake Malawi.

Our swimming cove

Day 3
Tornadoes on the Lake

On my first morning waking up on Lake Malawi, I noticed what looked like a series of tornadoes twisting in the distance over the water. For a moment, I genuinely thought my eyes were playing tricks on me. Tornadoes weren’t something I associated with Africa at all, let alone over a lake.

A Local Explanation
Not Wind, but Insects

Curious and slightly unsettled, I asked one of the locals about what I was seeing. He confirmed that they were real—but not tornadoes in the meteorological sense. They were tornadoes made entirely of bugs.

Lake Flies
A Rainy Season Phenomenon

Known locally as lake flies, these insects hatch by the millions during the rainy season. Once they emerge from their eggs, they rise en masse from the surface of the lake, forming towering, swirling columns as they search for mates. From a distance, the effect is uncanny—giant living funnels of insects spinning silently over the water.

Bug Tornado

Lake Flies as Food
Protein From the Swarm

When the lake fly swarms appear, local fishermen head out in their boats with wet towels, using them to collect the insects straight from the air. The flies are then mixed into a thick paste and cooked into what are essentially bug burgers.

Bug Burgers
More Protein Than Beef

These lake fly patties are said to contain more protein than beef burgers and are a well-known seasonal food around Lake Malawi. It’s a practical response to an abundant natural resource—equal parts ingenuity and tradition.

Would I Try One?
Probably

Despite how it sounds, I didn’t actually see one being prepared or sold, so I never got the chance to try one. That said, if I had come across one, I probably would have—if only to fully embrace one of Lake Malawi’s most unusual and memorable local customs.

Lake Malawi Sunrise

A Disturbing Discovery
Research After a Day in the Water

My wife, Paula, who works in the medical field, began researching Lake Malawi’s health risks the day after we had spent hours swimming in it—both the day before and again that morning. What she found was deeply unsettling.

An Imbalanced Ecosystem
Parasites on the Rise

Due to years of overfishing, Lake Malawi’s ecosystem has been significantly disrupted. The removal of fish and other natural predators has allowed parasites to thrive unchecked. As a result, schistosomiasis—a parasitic worm infection that was once rare in the lake—is now widespread.

Schistosomiasis
A Growing Public Health Problem

Schistosomiasis can be extremely dangerous over time, causing serious organ damage if left untreated. According to the research Paula uncovered, the majority of residents living along the lake now carry the parasite. Even more alarming, one study focusing on recent British vacationers found that roughly 35 percent of them had contracted schistosomiasis after visiting Lake Malawi.

Horror Stories
When Travel Turns Dangerous

Some of the accounts we read were truly horrifying. One tourist reportedly became paralyzed after a parasite entered his body while swimming. Reading story after story like this quickly drained any lingering sense of relaxation we had about our time in the water.

A Precaution Back Home
Testing for Peace of Mind

Given what we learned, we made the decision to get tested for parasites once we returned home. It was a sobering reminder that even the most beautiful places can carry hidden risks—and that sometimes, the aftermath of an adventure doesn’t fully reveal itself until long after you leave.

The Crocodile Farm

On the drive away from Lake Malawi, we stopped at a crocodile farm. Baby crocodiles were being bred specifically for the luxury leather trade, their skins destined for purses and boots sold in Italy. The process felt efficient and unsettling, a tightly run operation built around global demand.

Breeders, Not Targets
The Old Crocodiles

The largest and oldest crocodiles were spared. Instead of being slaughtered, they were kept for breeding, ensuring a steady supply of younger animals. Watching these massive reptiles lying motionless in their enclosures was a stark reminder of the uneasy line between wildlife management, conservation, and commerce.

Croc farm

Big crocs used for breeding purposes

Back to Lilongwe
Storms and a Different World

By afternoon, we continued on to Lilongwe. We spent the night at a hotel located within a Chinese community, an unexpected enclave that felt worlds apart from the lake. As a violent thunderstorm tore through the city, we sat inside eating Chinese food, watching sheets of rain and flashes of lightning close out our final hours in Malawi.

Day 4
Departing Malawi

On our final morning, we boarded a Malawi Airlines flight bound for South Africa. The journey felt quick and smooth, a gentle transition out of Malawi after several intense and memorable days.

A Familiar Face
Lunch in Transit

We had arranged to meet our friend Debjeet during our layover, and sharing lunch with him at the airport offered a welcome moment of familiarity in the midst of travel. It was a brief reunion, but a perfect way to bridge the end of our Malawi chapter with the next leg of our African journey.