September 2017: Paula and I planned a trip to Samoa, also known as Independent Western Samoa. Although it lies just 500 miles from American Samoa, a U.S. territory, Independent Samoa is its own sovereign nation. The country is known for preserving its traditional Samoan culture, maintaining its authentic architecture, and resisting large-scale resort development. Our goal was to explore as much of the islands as possible in four days with our rental car, seeking out off-the-beaten-path experiences.
Day 1: After a long flight from Los Angeles via Fiji Airways, with a stopover in Nadi, Fiji, we finally arrived in Samoa at 10 a.m. on a Sunday. Sundays in Samoa are typically quiet, with most businesses closed, but unlike its neighbor Tonga, Samoa’s airport and rental car agencies remained open, allowing us to start our adventure immediately.
Immigration was quick and hassle-free, and upon arrival, we were met by a representative from the rental car agency, who escorted us to our vehicle. The rental cost, including insurance, was approximately $70 USD per day for an economy car with automatic transmission. The price also covered the $20 USD fee for a Samoan driver’s license, which is required for visitors.
Map of the two islands of Western Samoa. On this trip we drove across both islands
Sua Ocean Trench
Samoa was the only country on our trip that did not recognize an international or U.S. driver’s license. Instead, all foreign drivers are required to obtain a Samoan driver’s license. The process was simple—I paid a $20 USD fee and provided a copy of my U.S. driver’s license. Since we were now closer to Australia than the U.S., driving in Samoa followed left-side traffic rules, which took some adjusting.
The airport is about an hour away from Apia, the capital and largest town in Samoa. To avoid traffic and take in the idyllic back roads, we decided to take the longer, scenic route to our first destination: the Sua Ocean Trench—a breathtaking, turquoise-green natural swimming pool hidden at the bottom of a sinkhole.
Our rental car was handed over with only half a tank of fuel, so we made sure to fill up at the first gas station we encountered—about thirty minutes into our drive. It turned out to be a wise decision, as we wouldn’t see another gas station for the next two days.
Traffic was light, though the roads were filled with Samoans dressed in formal attire, walking to church. On Sundays, Samoa slows down significantly—aside from the people attending church, the villages were quiet, and nearly all businesses remained closed for the day.
When we finally arrived at the Sua Ocean Trench, it was clear why it is one of Samoa’s must-see landmarks. Like many tourist sites in Samoa, it sits on ancestral land, which means an entrance fee is required to gain access. In this case, the fee was $15 USD per person, the highest of any attraction we visited in Samoa—but after seeing the breathtaking beauty of the trench, we quickly realized it was worth every penny.
Sua Ocean Trench
Paula at Sua Ocean Trench
The ladder leading down into the Sua Ocean Trench likely serves as a natural filter, discouraging some tourists from taking the plunge. It’s taller than it looks, and while it can be slippery at times, it felt safe enough if navigated carefully. We ended up spending half the day enjoying the place, which we practically had to ourselves, aside from a few friendly locals.
Afterwards, we set off to find a hotel since we hadn’t booked anything for the night. We had a tent with us as a backup option, but after a long flight and knowing that we’d likely be staying in a hut the following night, we decided to treat ourselves to something a bit more comfortable.
There weren’t many options on this side of the island. The first hotel we checked was fully booked, but luckily, the second one had availability.
We ended up staying in a beach bungalow at Saletoga Sands Beach Resort, just a few miles from Sua Ocean Trench—a perfect place to relax and indulge for the night. Our bungalow sat right by the water and, to our delight, had air conditioning—a much-appreciated luxury. The highlight, however, was the outdoor shower, enclosed by tall, thatched walls, offering a secluded, open-air experience while keeping any curious onlookers at bay.
The resort also had a swim-up pool bar, something I had never experienced before but greatly appreciated after a long day of travel and exploration.
Staying with a Samoan Family in the Remote Northeast Coast
Day 2: After indulging in a hearty breakfast buffet, which was conveniently included in our stay, we set off in our rental car toward Fagaloa Bay, located on the opposite side of the island.
Along the way, we made stops at several waterfalls, including Sopoaga Falls and Fuipisia Falls. While both were impressive, Fuipisia Falls stood out as the most breathtaking—a stunning cascade plunging into the dense Samoan jungle, creating an unforgettable scene.
Paula at Fuipisia Falls
Our goal for the day was to venture into one of the least-visited areas of Upolu, Samoa’s main island, and find a local family to stay with in one of the traditional villages of Fagaloa Bay.
Fagaloa Bay is renowned for its rainforest-cloaked mountains, cascading waterfalls, and deeply traditional villages. The rainforest here is part of the largest remaining rainforest in Polynesia, a wild and untouched landscape that adds to the area’s remote charm. Life in these villages remains rooted in the Matai system, where a chief oversees the protection of customary land, ensuring that traditions are preserved.
Reaching the villages is an adventure in itself. They are tucked away at the base of towering jungle-covered mountains, accessible only by a single narrow, pothole-ridden road that hugs the coastline before abruptly ending at one of the last villages. Until recently, the road was unpaved, and with no resorts or major tourist infrastructure, this part of Samoa receives far fewer visitors compared to the more popular areas.
The irony, in my opinion, is that this is the most beautiful part of Samoa—a place where nature remains pristine, and the warmth of the local people makes it an absolute highlight of any journey through the islands.
Paula at Fagaloa Bay
Many of the houses in these villages were built in the traditional style of the Fale—a thatched hut with open walls, designed to provide natural ventilation and keep the interior cool in Samoa’s tropical climate. While most modern Fales are now constructed with corrugated metal roofs and concrete floors, some villages in Fagaloa Bay still preserve the authentic thatched-roof structures, maintaining a connection to Samoa’s architectural heritage.
Modern Fale House in Lone Village with jungle cascades in back
I also noticed that traditional tattoos were far more common in Samoa than in many other Pacific Islands I had visited. Tattoos are an integral part of Polynesian culture, and in fact, the word “tattoo” itself originates from the Polynesian language.
Unfortunately, over the centuries, missionary influence has led many Polynesians to believe that tattoos are un-Christian, causing the tradition to fade in some areas. However, in Samoa, the art of tattooing has remained strong, serving as a symbol of cultural identity, strength, and heritage—a testament to the resilience of Samoan traditions despite outside pressures.
Samoan man with Tradtional Tatoos
In Lone Village, we spotted a few thatched Fales along the beach, completely unoccupied. Intrigued, I approached a group of villagers and asked if it was possible to stay in one for the night. The men, who spoke mostly Samoan with only a limited understanding of English, sent a young boy to guide Paula and me to the owner of the Fales.
We carefully navigated through the village, dodging the ever-present pigs that freely roamed the roads. Eventually, we found the owners, Elei and her husband, who seemed genuinely delighted when I asked if we could stay. The price was $20 USD each, but at first, I wasn’t sure whether meals were included, as communication was limited. In the end, it turned out that not only were meals provided, but we also had an unlimited supply of coconuts.
Seeing that we were hungry, Elei and her husband disappeared into the village, returning moments later with a live chicken. Without hesitation, her husband butchered it right in front of us, along with a freshly caught fish. Then, Elei asked if we were thirsty. When I inquired about coconuts, they smiled and nodded. Moments later, I heard the unmistakable sound of her husband chopping down a coconut tree. True to their word, for the rest of our stay, Paula and I drank more coconuts than we could count—so many that I don’t think I’ve ever had to urinate more frequently in my life.
The area surrounding the Fales was breathtakingly beautiful, and we had big plans to explore the villages, waterfalls, and beaches. However, inclement weather kept us inside our Fale for most of the day. Every so often, the rain would ease, granting us a brief window to explore before the downpour returned.
Fagaloa Bay
Main Road
On the way to Uafato Village, we passed through some of the most breathtaking scenery of our journey. This part of the island is incredibly remote, with long stretches of untouched jungle between each scattered village.
Accompanied by our host, we drove to the end of the road leading to Uafato Village, following a paved road riddled with potholes that wound up and down through rainforest-covered hills. At times, the road became so steep that I questioned whether our little 4-cylinder rental car had enough power to make the climb.
We arrived in Uafato just as dusk settled over the village. As the last village at the end of the dirt road, before the jungle swallowed the land beyond, it had a remote, almost mystical “edge-of-the-world” feel. According to local folklore, the dense jungle beyond is said to be home to evil spirits and marauding Tongans, adding to the village’s air of mystery.
I wished we had more time to explore—but with night falling and the jungle looming ahead, Uafato remained an untapped mystery, waiting for another adventure.
Uafato Village
Samoan Family Crossing River After a Storm
Later that evening, we sat near the beach with our host mother and some of her children. She had six children, though some were away at school in Apia. As we enjoyed the evening breeze, I opened a bottle of wine and offered her a glass. She hesitated, explaining that her husband wouldn’t be too happy if she drank.
Curious, I asked where he was, and she told me he was drinking kava with the other men in the village but would return soon. She mentioned that he loved wine, so I decided to wait for him to get back. When he finally arrived, we shared the bottle together, exchanging stories and laughter late into the evening.
Our hosts then told us something unexpected—they had never hosted foreigners before, and we were the first outsiders to stay in their home. They expressed how happy and honored they were to have us there, a sentiment that made the experience all the more special and memorable.
Somoan Family Stay on Beach
Our falet where we slept. Our host family slept in a separate falet adjacent to ours.
Savaii Island
Day 3: We set off early in the morning, embarking on the long drive to the ferry docks a few hours away. Our goal was to arrive early enough to secure a spot for our vehicle, knowing that space could be limited and delays were always a possibility.
Ferry to Savaii
Passengers sleeping on the ferry
As the ferry approached Savai’i, I had a strong feeling I was going to love this place. The island’s rugged interior rose above the clouds, dominated by a massive volcano, while its shores were lined with lush, untouched jungle—a scene straight out of a tropical paradise.
We disembarked in Salelologa, the largest village on the island, where life moved at a slow, unhurried pace. After dropping off a local Samoan man who had helped us purchase our return ferry tickets, we set off on our journey, eager to explore.
Our goal for the next two days was simple, yet ambitious—to circumnavigate Savai’i, taking in as much of its raw beauty and unspoiled landscapes as possible.
Saleaula Lava Field
We set off counterclockwise around the island, with our first stop at the Saleaula Lava Field—a stark reminder of Savai’i’s volcanic past.
In 1905, Mount Matavanu, now dormant, erupted violently, spewing lava that blanketed the island’s northeast in a vast, molten flow. Over time, the lava hardened, transforming the landscape into an otherworldly terrain—a stark contrast to the island’s otherwise lush surroundings.
One of the most intriguing sites within the lava field is the remains of an old church, nearly buried by the eruption. Though much of it was destroyed, the black lava rock that now fills its interior serves as a haunting testament to the raw power of nature.
Old Church that was decimated by a lava flow
Paia Dwarfs Cave
After another hour of driving, we veered off the main road into a small village, where we picked up a local guide to take us to the Paia Dwarfs Cave—a vast lava tube shrouded in legend.
According to local folklore, the cave is home to a mysterious race of dwarfs who have lived inside for generations. The cave is said to be so long and deep that no one—except the dwarfs—has ever explored its entirety.
The road to the cave was rough and unforgiving, cutting across jagged volcanic rock. With every bump and jolt, I couldn’t help but worry that our tires might not survive the journey.
Finally, we arrived. The entrance to the cave was nothing more than a hole in the ground, hidden deep within the jungle. As we descended, the world around us plunged into darkness—the only light came from our flashlights, their beams flickering against the cave’s rough, shadowy walls.
Paia Dwarfs cave
We hiked deep into the lava tubes, our footsteps echoing through the cavern as we followed the narrow, winding passage. For an hour, we navigated the rocky tunnels, their walls slick with moisture, the air cool and heavy with the scent of damp earth.
Then, we reached something incredible—a hidden waterfall, cascading down into a dark, secluded pool. The water glowed faintly in the beam of our flashlights, its surface still and inviting.
Carefully, we descended the rocky ledge, stepping down into the cool, clear pool, which was deep enough to swim in. In that moment, surrounded by absolute darkness except for the soft shimmer of water, it felt as if we had discovered a secret world buried beneath the island.
Swimming in Paia Dwarfs cave
Our guide offered to take us deeper into the cave, but we decided to settle for a swim and then make our way back to the entrance. The thought of venturing further into the unexplored darkness was tempting, but the cool, refreshing water was adventure enough for now.
After leaving the Paia Dwarfs Cave, we continued our drive for several hours, winding through long stretches of road flanked by dense jungle. Savai’i’s interior felt wild and untouched, and for miles, there was nothing but rainforest and silence.
The villages we did pass were rural and traditional, with many fale houses—open-sided, thatched-roof structures that served as homes, meeting places, and communal spaces. In the village fales, we often saw groups of men or women sitting together, talking, laughing, and enjoying the simplicity of daily life.
The roads themselves were eerily quiet, with almost no vehicle traffic. The few cars that did pass us moved at a crawl, which at first seemed strange—until I realized why. The island’s roads were a gauntlet of sudden obstacles.
Every few minutes, a pig, chicken, dog, or even a child would dart unexpectedly into the road, seemingly oblivious to the dangers of oncoming traffic. It wasn’t reckless driving that slowed people down—it was the constant, unpredictable attempts at road-crossing suicide by the local animals (and occasionally, the children).
Local women meeting in a Fale
Rainforests of Falealupo Peninsula
In the northwest corner of Savai’i, we visited the Falealupo Peninsula, a region shrouded in dense rainforest and known for its jungle canopy walk, an attraction built by local villagers.
The canopy walk was incredible, though it was not for the faint of heart. A rickety rope-and-wood bridge stretched between two massive rainforest trees, hundreds of feet above the ground. The bridge swayed with each step, adding an extra thrill to the experience.
To reach the canopy, we ascended a winding wooden walkway built into the trunk of a towering tree. Just before stepping onto the bridge, a weathered sign greeted visitors with a stark reminder:
“ENTER AT YOUR OWN RISK.”
It was the perfect introduction to what lay ahead.
Village Rainforest Canopy Walk
Village Rainforest Canopy Walk
Falealupo Peninsula
We hadn’t booked a place to stay in advance, so we checked into the first hotel we came across—the Vaimoana Seaside Beach Bungalows. It turned out to be a perfect choice.
Our beachfront bungalow had a spacious deck overlooking the ocean, offering a front-row seat to the island’s breathtaking scenery. The moment we settled in, I grabbed a cold beer, stepped onto the deck, and watched the sun sink into the horizon.
As the sky exploded in shades of orange and pink, the gentle crash of the waves below made for the perfect end to a long day of exploring.
Vaimoana Seaside beach bungalows
Afu Aau Waterfalls
Day 4: The next morning, we reluctantly left our beach bungalow, knowing we could have easily spent another day soaking in the ocean views. But our journey around Savai’i wasn’t over, so we packed up and hit the road once more.
Our first stop was Tafua Crater, a dormant volcanic crater hidden deep within the jungle. The hike took us through dense, overgrown vegetation, where the crater itself had been completely reclaimed by nature. Lush greenery blanketed the ancient rim, making it feel more like a forgotten jungle sanctuary than the remains of an eruption.
Afterwards, eager to cool off from the heat, we made our way to the stunning Afu Aau Waterfalls. Cascading into a clear, turquoise pool, the falls looked almost too perfect to be real—like something straight out of a postcard. We wasted no time jumping into the cool, refreshing water, letting the spray from the falls wash away the sweat and dust of the morning’s hike.
Afu Aau waterfalls
Village Girl
We caught the 4 PM car ferry back to Upolu Island, watching as the paradise of Savai’i faded into the distance. It was hard to leave, knowing we were saying goodbye to one of the most untouched and beautiful places we had ever visited.
With our flight to New Zealand departing at 10:30 PM, we had a few hours to kill on Upolu, but after days of driving, we decided we had done enough exploring—it was time to relax.
So, we snuck into one of Samoa’s oldest and most luxurious hotels—Aggie Grey’s Resort, conveniently located near the wharf, the airport, and our car rental return location.
We found a secluded hammock on a remote beach, ordered cocktails, and watched one final Samoan sunset. The sky turned gold and crimson, the waves lapped gently at the shore, and for a moment, it felt like time had slowed down.
It was incredibly hard to leave Samoa, but as the night fell, it was time to set off for our next adventure—New Zealand-Auckland and Exploring Wild Glow Worm Caves, New Zealand | Venture The Planet.
Aggie Grey’s Resort