November 2008: As part of a two-week backpacking trip across the Balkans, my friend Dan and I spent three days in Serbia. Our main goal was to explore Belgrade and observe how the country has rebounded from the NATO bombing campaign of 1999, which contributed to the overthrow and capture of then-Serbian President Slobodan Milošević. He was widely regarded as the mastermind behind the ethnic cleansing of Muslim Albanians in Kosovo.

Belgrade

Belgrade

Dan and I flew into Belgrade from Sarajevo, Bosnia, and stayed in a hotel in Serbia’s capital, where much of the NATO bombing took place. Belgrade was a pleasant city, easy to navigate, and felt surprisingly Westernized—at times, it even reminded me of a Midwestern U.S. city like Chicago.

We didn’t have a strict itinerary, so for the most part, we simply wandered and explored. However, I did mark a few sites on the map that still bore visible reminders of the war. One of the most striking was the partially destroyed military intelligence building, left in ruins after being hit by stealth bombers. We also visited the Military Museum, which had a fascinating display featuring wreckage from a U.S. stealth bomber that was shot down during the war.

Downtown Belgrade

Serbian Military Museum

The Military Museum was located inside an old fort overlooking the Danube River. Its main attraction was the wreckage of the only known stealth bomber ever shot down. The American pilot managed to eject and was eventually rescued, but parts of his uniform and the aircraft were seized by Serbian forces. It is believed that Serbia later shared the wreckage with China, potentially aiding in the development of their own stealth bomber technology.

Visiting this exhibit as an American tourist was a surreal experience. It provided a unique opportunity to see the war from the Serbian perspective, including displays featuring photos of civilians who were killed during the NATO bombing campaign. It was a sobering reminder that history is often told differently depending on which side you’re standing on.

Fort over the Danube River

Danube River

Parts of the US stealth bomber, weapons and pilot uniform seized by Serbian forces

Parts of the US stealth bomber, weapons and pilot uniform seized by Serbian forces

Parts of the US stealth bomber, weapons and pilot uniform seized by Serbian forces

Photos of Serbian civilians killed by the NATO bombing

Rave Across the Street from the Bombed Out Military HQ

As Dan and I explored Belgrade, we unexpectedly came across a massive rave inside an industrial building, located directly across the street from the bombed-out Serbian military intelligence building. It was surreal—half of the military building remained in ruins from the NATO airstrikes, while the other half, still in use, had its office lights glowing as we walked past.

Curious, we followed some partygoers into the industrial building and casually entered the rave. The scene was wild—electronic music blasted as a crowd of Serbian teenagers and twenty-somethings danced, drank, and partied across multiple floors. Few people spoke English, so we mostly wandered from floor to floor, drinking beer and soaking in the chaotic energy. The party had everything you’d expect—alcohol, drugs, even couples disappearing into stairwells.

When some of the partygoers realized we were American, their reactions were unexpected. They wanted to apologize for Serbia’s past, emphasizing that the country had changed. They expressed shame for the old Serbia and insisted that they only wanted peace. It was striking to hear that perspective firsthand, especially in a setting so symbolic of the country’s resilience—partying in the shadow of a bombed-out reminder of war.

Bombed military HQ

Bombed military HQ

Bombed military HQ-a banner on the street below it depicted a map of Kosovo which I figured was pro-nationalist propaganda to return Kosovo to Serbia. 

Train to Romania

After spending three days in Belgrade, Dan and I boarded an old communist-era train for the journey to Bucharest. The train had a vintage, worn-down feel, a relic of another time. We booked our own sleeper room, making the overnight ride more comfortable, and ordered a few beers to pass the time on what was supposed to be an eight-hour trip.

The train made several stops along the way, and at multiple points, stern, stoic police officers boarded to check passports. Each time, they woke us up, carefully inspected our documents, and then silently moved on. The whole process felt mechanical and a little intimidating, but after a while, we got used to it. Despite the occasional interruptions, the rhythmic clatter of the train rolling through the Balkans made for an unforgettable journey.

 

 

Communist era train to Romania

Communist era train to Romania

Dan in the Communist era train to Romania

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