Uganda 2003: My First True Taste of Africa
Even though it was my second time visiting Africa after a brief trip to Egypt, my journey to Uganda in November 2003 was when I truly fell in love with the continent. This was my first experience in Sub-Saharan Africa, and it completely changed the way I viewed travel.
Back then, Uganda was still far off the beaten path, with very few tourists. But what made this trip so memorable was not just the incredible landscapes and wildlife—it was the people.
Through a fellow American teacher in South Korea, I was introduced to a group of young Ugandan guys who became my friends and hosts for two weeks. Instead of being a tourist, I was a guest in their homes, sharing their daily lives.
During my stay, my Ugandan friends showed me their country—from the wild jungles of Bwindi, where I tracked mountain gorillas, to the savannas of Queen Elizabeth National Park, where I saw my first lion. I even climbed the Rwenzori Mountains, the legendary “Mountains of the Moon.”
This is the story of my unforgettable first journey into the heart of Africa.
About Uganda
My route across Uganda
Uganda: A Land of Natural Wonders and a Turbulent Past
Uganda, though small in size, is a country of remarkable contrasts. Nestled between Africa’s largest freshwater lakes, it boasts some of the most incredible wildlife and nature reserves on the continent. Despite having one of the highest population densities in Africa, Uganda remains home to vast untamed wilderness, including the Rwenzori Mountains and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, where mountain gorillas still roam free.
A Legacy of Kingdoms and Colonial Rule
Uganda has a rich African history, once forming part of the Buganda Kingdom, with Luganda still widely spoken today. Under British colonial rule, English also became an official language, much like in neighboring Kenya.
Idi Amin, Museveni, and the LRA Insurgency
Uganda is also infamous for its brutal political history. It was once ruled by one of Africa’s most notorious dictators, Idi Amin, who terrorized the nation from 1971 to 1979. After his downfall, General Yoweri Museveni took power in 1986 and has remained one of the world’s longest-ruling leaders ever since.
During my time in Uganda, the country was still grappling with conflict in the north, where Joseph Kony’s Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA) was waging a brutal insurgency. Reports of entire villages being massacred along the South Sudan border were frequent. One of my Ugandan friends even told me that his hometown had been razed by the LRA, a chilling reminder of the harsh realities people faced outside the more stable regions of the country.
Despite its troubled history, Uganda remains one of Africa’s most captivating destinations, a place where ancient cultures, stunning landscapes, and untamed wildlife come together in a way that few places on earth can match.
Being Shown Around by My Ugandan Friends
Experiencing Uganda Like a Local
My time in Uganda was far more than just a trip—it was an immersive experience, thanks to my friends Simon, Frank, and Henry. These guys were all friends of my co-worker from South Korea, who had met them during his time in Uganda as a Peace Corps volunteer. Through them, I wasn’t just a tourist—I was welcomed into their world.
Staying with Friends, Not in Hotels
Rather than staying in hotels or guesthouses, I lived in Martin’s house, where Simon and Frank also stayed. It was the perfect way to see Uganda through local eyes and experience everyday life in a way most travelers never do.
A Deep Dive Into Ugandan Culture
These guys went above and beyond in showing me their country. They introduced me to their families, took me as a guest to traditional weddings, where I experienced Ugandan dancing and singing, and brought me to bars and restaurants, where I tasted local dishes and enjoyed Uganda’s vibrant nightlife.
Unexpected Job Opportunity
One of the most surprising moments of my trip came when my friends arranged an interview for me at the airport with one of the owners of a Ugandan bush plane airline. As a licensed pilot, I was intrigued by the opportunity, but I was told that for insurance reasons, I needed 50 more hours of flight time before they could hire me. It was an exciting glimpse into a different career path, even if it didn’t work out in the end.
More Than Just a Trip—A True Friendship
My Ugandan friends were some of the best travel companions I could have asked for. They showed me the real Uganda, far beyond the typical tourist experiences. Instead of just passing through, I got to know the people, their culture, and their way of life on a personal level. It made my time in Uganda not just a trip, but a deeply meaningful experience—one that I will never forget.
At a Ugandan wedding with Frank, Simon and Martin
Me visiting Martin’s family.
Maribou stork as common as pigeons in the streets of Entebbe and kampala. These huge grim reaper looking scavenging storks were everywhere.
Tracking Mountain Gorilas at Bwindi National Park
Tracking Mountain Gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
Mountain gorillas, the largest of all gorilla species, are among the most endangered primates on Earth. With only around 800 individuals remaining, nearly half of them reside in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, a misty, ancient rainforest that straddles the DRC border. The rest of the population is found in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (Uganda/DRC) and Volcanoes National Park (Rwanda/DRC).
A Conservation Success Story Against the Odds
The survival of mountain gorillas is nothing short of a miracle. Despite decades of poaching, deforestation, armed conflict, and extreme poverty in the surrounding communities, conservation efforts have been remarkably successful. One major reason? Eco-tourism.
By generating jobs and revenue for local communities, gorilla tourism has provided more incentive to keep them alive than dead. This effort, however, was nearly derailed in the late 1990s when Rwandan rebels hiding in the DRC crossed into Bwindi, attacking a group of tourists and guides, murdering some with machetes. The brutal incident scared visitors away for years, and even when I visited in 2003, Bwindi was still recovering.
To prevent another attack, security in the park was tight. Armed rangers patrolled the forest, and every tourist tracking gorillas was accompanied by a team of rangers with AK-47s—not to defend against the gorillas, but against potential rebel incursions.
Securing a Permit & Journeying to Bwindi
To track the gorillas, I had to obtain a permit from the Uganda Wildlife Authority, which cost $250 USD—a steep price at the time, but necessary to fund conservation. I wired my payment, received my permit by email, and was ready for the adventure.
Getting to Bwindi was an expedition in itself.
- I rented a 4×4 vehicle for the rough terrain.
- My friend Frank took the wheel, navigating the muddy, mountain roads for an all-day journey.
- Along the way, we stopped in remote villages, meeting friendly locals living in simple mud-brick homes.
- Eventually, we arrived at the Bwindi park headquarters, where we spent the night in a bungalow deep in the rainforest.
The humid jungle air, the sounds of nocturnal creatures, and the sheer remoteness of the place made it feel like we were on the edge of the wild—because we were. Occasionally, gorillas visit the park headquarters, a reminder that we were now in their domain.
The next morning, we would begin our trek into the rainforest, searching for one of the most majestic and elusive creatures on Earth.
Bad road to Bwindi
Uganda Village Life
Uganda Village Life
Village market
Tracking Mountain Gorillas in Bwindi: A Once-in-a-Lifetime Encounter
The morning of my gorilla trek began with a briefing from park rangers, explaining the delicate process of tracking these elusive primates. The gorillas are constantly moving, sometimes covering long distances—even at night—so their location is never guaranteed.
To find them, a team of trackers follows the gorillas daily, radioing updates to rangers guiding tourists. But there were no promises. Some treks last 30 minutes; others take 8 hours. And on rare occasions, the gorillas remain hidden in the dense rainforest, making an encounter impossible.
The Trek Begins
After a short drive to another section of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, our small group set off. The first leg of the trek took us through farmland bordering the forest, areas where gorillas occasionally emerge to forage before returning to the jungle to sleep.
Once inside the rainforest, the real challenge began. The thick vegetation forced us to bushwhack through steep, muddy terrain, dodging thorny vines and tangled roots. We hiked for about two to three hours, half of it deep inside the jungle, when suddenly—rustling in the treetops.
Our guide froze, motioning for us to crouch down. The gorillas were above us.
Face to Face with a Mountain Gorilla Family
The moment was surreal. Black shapes emerged from the canopy, descending effortlessly from the trees to the ground. Within seconds, I was surrounded by a family of mountain gorillas—just 5 to 10 feet away.
It was a childhood dream come true, but also a stark reality check. Unlike in a nature documentary, where gorillas appear majestic and serene, these were wild animals—massive, powerful, and unpredictable.
- The dominant silverback sat nearby, his 400-500 lb frame radiating authority.
- His arms were enormous, his canine teeth flashed strategically when yawning, a subtle yet unmistakable warning—he was in charge.
- He occasionally beat his chest, Donkey Kong-style, a deep, reverberating sound that made my heart pound.
- His eyes met mine, and I immediately averted my gaze—a sign of submission in gorilla society.
Then came one of the most incredible moments: a tiny baby gorilla rolled on the ground, playfully tumbling toward me. For a second, I thought it would climb into my lap, but before that could happen, its protective mother grabbed it and pulled it back.
Reality snapped back in other ways, too—
✔ The pungent scent of the gorillas filled the humid air.
✔ Flies jumped from their thick fur onto us.
✔ The jungle fell silent except for the rustling of leaves and the occasional low grunts of the silverback.
For 30 unforgettable minutes, I sat among one of the rarest creatures on Earth, watching them interact, forage, and move effortlessly through the jungle. It was a privilege beyond words—one I will never forget.
Then, it was time to leave. Strict rules limited our visit to half an hour, ensuring that no single gorilla group was overstressed by human presence.
As we hiked back through the rainforest, I couldn’t help but relive every second of the experience. The powerful yet gentle nature of the silverback, the playfulness of the baby, and the intensity of their gaze—a reminder that in this remote corner of Uganda, deep in the jungle, we were guests in their world.
Ranger leading us through the forest to track Mountain Gorilas
Hiking through the farmland to get into Bwindi Forest to track mountain Gorilas
Armed Ranger escorting my gorilla trek
Male Silverback
Silverback
Female gorilla
Baby
Me posing with a gorilla
Silverback Gorilla
Camping in Queen Elizabeth National Park: Uganda’s Serengeti
After our incredible encounter with the mountain gorillas in Bwindi, we set off on a long drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park, one of Uganda’s most famous wildlife reserves. Often compared to Kenya’s Serengeti, Queen Elizabeth National Park stretches along Lake Edward, protecting vast savannahs, wetlands, and forests that are home to elephants, lions, hippos, and chimpanzees.
While the park’s wildlife was devastated during Uganda’s civil war, conservation efforts have helped populations rebound in recent years.
Camping in the Wild
I opted to camp in a tent near one of the park’s lakes, a decision that felt adventurous at first—until I woke up to hippos and buffalo grazing just outside my tent.
There are few things more intimidating than unzipping your tent in the early morning and realizing you’re just feet away from a massive hippo—one of Africa’s most dangerous animals.
I sat completely still, barely breathing, and waited for them to leave. Eventually, after what felt like forever, they moved on, and I could finally step outside.
First Lion and Elephant Encounter
Queen Elizabeth was where I experienced my first-ever wild lion and elephant sightings on a safari drive.
- A massive male lion walked directly in front of us, completely unbothered by our presence. Unfortunately, in my excitement, my camera settings failed me, and the photos didn’t turn out. But the memory of seeing my first lion in the wild is etched in my mind forever.
- I also spotted elephants—their sheer size and presence making it clear why they are among Africa’s most iconic creatures.
What made Queen Elizabeth National Park even more special was its lack of crowds. Unlike the Serengeti or Maasai Mara, I rarely saw another vehicle, allowing for a truly wild and unspoiled safari experience.
Uganda continued to amaze me, offering an authentic, raw, and untamed version of Africa that I was quickly falling in love with.
Grasslands of Queen Elizabeth
My friend Frank and I at the restaraunt patio/Queen Elizabeth NP overlooking the lakes
A hyena in Queen Elizabeth
A Waterbuck in Queen Elizabeth
Hippo outside my tent grazing
Red buck
Stork
Rwenzori Mountains “Mountains of the Moon”
Into the Mist: Trekking the Rwenzori Mountains – The Fabled “Mountains of the Moon”
After my safari in Queen Elizabeth National Park, I caught my first glimpse of the Rwenzori Mountains, looming like a ghostly wall on the horizon. The peaks—often hidden in a veil of mist—were drenched in deep purple storm clouds, and the distant rumbling of thunder only added to their ominous presence.
These were my next destination, and the storm-draped ridges felt both inviting and foreboding.
The Fabled Source of the Nile
For centuries, ancient civilizations searched for the true source of the Nile, and the Rwenzori Mountains were long believed to be it.
- Their high-altitude glaciers, which feed rivers that eventually flow into the Nile, made them a strong contender.
- Ancient Greek and Roman scholars called them the Mountains of the Moon because their white-capped peaks resembled the moon’s glow in the night sky.
- Even famed European explorers like Stanley and Speke struggled to locate them, as the peaks are almost always shrouded in thick rainclouds.
To this day, their hidden nature and remoteness make them one of the least-visited mountain ranges in Africa.
Entering One of Africa’s Wildest Landscapes
The Rwenzori Mountains straddle the border between Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). This untamed wilderness is protected by Rwenzori Mountains National Park, a rugged, remote sanctuary of thick rainforests, high-altitude swamps, jagged cliffs, and towering glaciers.
To trek into this otherworldly terrain, I needed a permit from the Ugandan Wildlife Authority. From there, my Ugandan friend drove me to the park headquarters, where he dropped me off to begin the expedition.
I was assigned:
✔ A group of armed rangers (due to occasional incursions by dangerous DRC rebels crossing into Uganda).
✔ Porters to carry food and supplies.
✔ A cook to help sustain us in the harsh alpine environment.
With my team assembled, we set off on the long and grueling trek into the Rwenzori’s misty, rain-drenched wilderness—a place few outsiders ever see.
Me and my trekking team before the hike
Into the Heart of the Rwenzori: A Trek Through the Endless Rain
The Rwenzori Mountains are a wildlife-rich region, but spotting animals in this dense, mist-laden jungle was a challenge.
- Occasionally, I caught glimpses of blue monkeys swinging in the distance, their silhouettes barely visible through the thick vegetation.
- At night, from the basic sleeping huts, I could hear the eerie calls of rock hyrax, echoing through the valleys.
- Aside from that, the jungle remained eerily quiet—a vast, wet, and untamed wilderness.
A Trek Through Constant Rain and Mud
From the moment we set foot on the trail, the Rwenzori lived up to its reputation as one of the wettest places in Africa.
- The rain started almost immediately and rarely stopped, pouring relentlessly day and night.
- The trails were unmaintained—steep, slippery, and thick with mud, making every step a battle.
- We crossed rivers that had swollen from the downpour, our feet constantly submerged.
I had prepared for the trek with military-style hiking boots and rain gear, but it made little difference. I was drenched the entire time.
The conditions were so rough that I rarely took photos—I was too focused on staying on my feet, navigating through the endless rain, and pushing forward.
Despite the challenges, this was the adventure I had come for—a raw, unfiltered journey into one of Africa’s last true frontiers.
Jungles at the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains
Massive jungle sloped mountain we climbed in the rain and mud straight up a steep path flowing with rain water
Crossing rivers on the trek
Crossing rivers on the trek
Thick jungle
Biggest worm I have ever seen that was much larger than my foot
My first hut where I slept
A Trek of Pure Endurance: Pushed to the Limits in the Rwenzori
The trek through the Rwenzori Mountains was nothing short of torture. It was one of those rare journeys where I felt completely alone, despite being surrounded by people.
- I trekked for nearly 12 hours per day with barely any rest.
- The conditions were relentless—constant rain, mud, steep climbs, and exhaustion pressing down on me.
- Though I had a team of porters, guides, and rangers, language barriers made communication difficult, and the solitude began to take its toll.
Isolation in the Mountains
After brutal days on the trail, nights offered no relief.
- I slept alone in a freezing, rustic wooden hut, while my team stayed in their own shelter.
- The wind howled through the mountains, shaking the walls as the rain pounded relentlessly against the corrugated roof.
- The isolation was intense. There were no distractions—only the deafening roar of the storm and my own thoughts.
It was one of those treks that tested my physical and mental endurance to the core—an adventure that, at the time, felt like pure suffering but, in hindsight, became one of the most defining experiences of my travels.
Inside the cooking hut
High alpine swamps
Into the High Alpine Swamps: A Grueling Ascent
As I climbed above 11,000 feet, the landscape transformed into something surreal—a high-altitude world of alpine swamps filled with giant groundswell plants and other endemic flora found nowhere else on Earth.
But this otherworldly beauty came at a price.
- The bogs were deep, the mud waist-high, and there were no boardwalks to make crossing easier.
- I relied on a long stick to brace myself, testing the depth of the mud before each step, but it was impossible to stay dry.
- The freezing rain never relented, soaking through my gear and making every movement an exhausting struggle.
A Brief Glimpse of the Peaks
After an entire day slogging through the swamps, we reached a high-altitude sleeping hut.
For the first time, the clouds briefly parted—just long enough for me to see the snow-clad peaks towering above. It was a fleeting moment, but it made the struggle feel worth it.
And then, just as quickly as they appeared, the peaks vanished once more behind the rain and mist.
High elevation bogs I had to walk through
Ending the Trek: A Tough but Necessary Decision
After two nights and three days of relentless rain, waist-deep mud, and grueling terrain, I made the call to end the trek early.
Though I could have continued deeper into the Rwenzori Mountains for several more days, it became clear that:
- The scenery would remain unchanged, with more rain, swamps, and bogs ahead.
- The extreme wet and cold conditions were taking a toll on my body and morale.
- The experience, while unforgettable, had already pushed me to my physical and mental limits.
A Change of Plans
Instead of pressing on, I returned to Entebbe to stay with my friends, enjoying some much-needed comfort after the trek. This change in schedule allowed me to head to Kenya earlier than planned, ready for the next adventure.
Mt Stanley
The Journey Back to Entebbe: A Close Call
I traveled back to Entebbe by public transportation, opting for the full local experience. The ride was packed, uncomfortable, and made even more intense by a heavy rainstorm that reduced visibility to near zero.
At one point, the bus suddenly slammed into something large, sending passengers into a state of panic. The immediate fear was that we had hit a person.
Everyone rushed off the bus in horror, expecting the worst. But instead of a human casualty, we found the mangled remains of a dead cow in the middle of the road.
Relieved, yet shaken, everyone climbed back onto the bus, and we continued toward Entebbe.
Farewell to Uganda
Back in Entebbe, I spent a few more days with my Ugandan friends, reminiscing about the trip and enjoying their company before heading off on my next journey.
From there, I boarded a public bus bound for Mombasa, Kenya, ready to explore a new country and embrace my next African adventure.