One Week in Rajasthan: Tigers, Desert Forts, and an Unforgettable Journey
In November 2006, as part of a two-week trip that also included Iran and Belarus, I spent a week in Rajasthan, India. My main goals were to see a wild tiger in Ranthambore National Park and explore the desert-walled city of Jaisalmer.
This was my second time in India, and Rajasthan felt like an entirely different country compared to my previous experience in the Himalayas and the Ganges plains. From dense jungles teeming with wildlife to ancient forts rising from the desert, the region had an entirely unique history, culture, and landscape.
My Rajasthan Itinerary
Day 1: Delhi → Agra → Ranthambore
- 03:30 AM arrival in Delhi
- Took the Taj Express (3-hour train) to Agra
- Visited the Taj Mahal and Red Fort, explored Agra
- Private car to Ranthambore National Park (overnight in a hotel)
Day 2-4: Ranthambore National Park – Tiger Safaris
- Morning and afternoon jeep safaris in Ranthambore National Park
- Hoped for a wild tiger sighting in one of India’s most famous tiger reserves
- Spent two nights in the park lodge, enjoying the remote jungle setting
- On Day 4, took a car to Jaipur, then boarded an overnight train to Jaisalmer
Day 5: Thar Desert Camping
- Arrived in Jaisalmer and drove to the Sam Sand Dunes and Khaba village
- Overnight stay in a tented camp in the Thar Desert, surrounded by rolling sand dunes
Day 6: Jaisalmer & Bikaner
- Explored Jaisalmer Fort, Jain Temples, and Patwon ki Haveli
- Drove to Bikaner, visiting the Karni Mata Temple (Rat Temple)
- Toured the Junagarh Fort
- Stayed overnight in a Maharajah’s palace hotel
Day 7: Return to Delhi & Departure
- Early morning drive from Bikaner to Delhi
- Departed for London
My route
Taj Mahal
Starting in Delhi & Visiting the Taj Mahal
I began my Rajasthan adventure in New Delhi, but rather than navigate the chaotic capital, I immediately boarded a train to Agra to visit the Taj Mahal—the world’s most famous tomb, built in the early 1600s by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal.
Wanting to experience it without the overwhelming crowds, I arrived early as the gates opened—and it paid off. The usually dense throngs of tourists were sparse, and for once, I wasn’t even harassed by street hustlers or touts.
The Taj Mahal was spectacular—one of those places that, no matter how many times you’ve seen it in pictures, still takes your breath away in person. The sheer scale, intricate marble details, and perfect symmetry made it a sight that had to be experienced firsthand
Taj Mahal
Taj Mahal
Tracking Tigers in Ranthambore National Park
To see a tiger in the wild, I chose Ranthambore National Park, one of the world’s most reliable places for tiger sightings. The park protects a vast expanse of dry Sal forests surrounding the 10th-century Ranthambore Fort, creating a dramatic backdrop for India’s most iconic predator.
Ranthambore is home to leopards, sloth bears, crocodiles, and, of course, Bengal tigers. To maximize my chances of a sighting, I planned for multiple days in the park and ensured I had at least two jeep safaris into the core zones, where tigers are most prevalent.
The effort paid off—I managed to see both a leopard and a tiger, along with the park’s rich variety of wildlife. The only elusive creature I missed? The sloth bear. But seeing a wild tiger in its natural habitat, roaming freely in the ruins of an ancient kingdom, was an experience that exceeded all expectations.
Rangers and a monkey having a team meeting
Sambar deer
Mugger crocodile
10th-century Ranthambore Fort
An Indian family exploring the park via tractor
Antelope
Owl
A Once-in-a-Lifetime Encounter: Locking Eyes with a Wild Tigress
I had spent years traveling through national parks across South and Southeast Asia, searching for the elusive wild tiger. Countless safaris, endless patience, and near misses—but it was in Ranthambore National Park that my efforts finally paid off.
During one of my jeep safaris, I spotted a tigress, just 10 feet away, gracefully crossing the road in front of us. As she passed, she locked eyes with me, her gaze piercing and powerful. For a brief moment, it felt as if time stood still—just me and this majestic, wild predator, sharing an intimate, wordless connection.
It was a beautiful, humbling experience, one that left me misty-eyed. After so many years of searching, seeing a wild tiger up close in its natural habitat was not just a dream fulfilled, but one of the most awe-inspiring moments of my travels—one I will never forget.
Tigress
Tigress
Rajhput Customs-Purdah-Head Veils for Hindu Women & Turbans and Giant Handle Bar Mustaches for Men
Experiencing Rajasthan’s Unique Culture
One of the biggest reasons I wanted to visit Rajasthan was to experience its people and culture. The Rajput people are fiercely proud of their heritage, and their distinct dress and traditions set them apart from other regions of India.
The Rajput Men: Turbans & Mustaches
Rajput men are known for their imposing appearance, often wearing large, elaborate turbans in bright colors and sporting massive, curled handlebar mustaches—a sign of masculinity and pride. These traditional styles aren’t just for show; they’re a deeply ingrained part of their identity, with different turban styles representing different regions, clans, and even social status.
Hindu Women & the Purdah Tradition
Hindu women in Rajasthan follow strict cultural customs, especially when it comes to marriage and modesty. Married women observe purdah, meaning they veil their faces when in the presence of men who aren’t related to them. Unlike in Islam, where veiling is often required for all women, in Rajasthan, it only applies to married Hindu women.
The Painted Camels of Rajasthan
Another uniquely Rajasthani sight is the ubiquitous camel carts. Camels, known as the “ships of the desert,” are widely used to haul everything from electronics to produce, and they’re often adorned with colorful decorations, intricate harnesses, and even painted patterns. Whether in the bustling streets of Jaipur or the dusty roads of Jaisalmer, these decorated camels pulling heavily loaded carts are an essential part of daily life in Rajasthan.
From the proud Rajput warriors to the veiled women of the desert and the ornate camels weaving through the streets, Rajasthan’s cultural richness is just as fascinating as its palaces and landscapes.
Hindu women with covered face
Hindu women with covered face
Rajput Man
Rajput Man
Kids from a musical caste waiting to perform for tourists
Rajput Man
Camel cart with a painted camel
Thar Desert and Gypsy Nomads
Into the Thar Desert: Camping Among Nomads in Jaisalmer
From Jaipur, I embarked on an all-day train journey to the old walled desert city of Jaisalmer, deep in the Thar Desert, India’s largest desert, which also forms the border with Pakistan.
As soon as I arrived, I headed directly into the desert, where I encountered groups of wandering nomads along the roadside. Their colorful attire, decorated camels, and centuries-old way of life made it feel as though I had stepped back in time.
Camping in the Sand Dunes
I spent the evening exploring the dunes by camel, riding through the rolling golden sands for a few hours. As the sun dipped below the horizon, the landscape was bathed in shades of orange and pink—a breathtaking sight.
Once the sun was gone, the temperature plummeted, and the warmth of the desert disappeared into the night. To keep warm, I lit a bonfire, sitting under a sky ablaze with stars, listening to the absolute silence of the desert.
A Private Nomadic Performance
That night, I learned that a group of traveling nomads from a musical caste was nearby with their camels. Curious, I asked if they would perform for me, and for a small fee, they happily agreed.
Under the moonlit sky, surrounded by the endless dunes, a family of nomads sang, danced, and played Indian drums and flutes, creating an atmosphere that felt almost magical. Their haunting melodies and rhythmic drumming echoed through the desert night, adding an unforgettable depth to my Thar Desert experience.
It was a surreal and mesmerizing moment, one that felt like an authentic glimpse into Rajasthan’s nomadic traditions—and a memory I would cherish forever.
Thar desert
Me in the Thar desert
Thar desert Sunset
Desert nomads
Desert nomads
Jaisalmer: Rajasthan’s Golden City
I spent a night in Jaisalmer, an 11th-century walled desert city of just 40,000 people, where history feels untouched by time. I explored intricately carved Jain temples, wandered markets bustling with nomads selling handmade crafts, and strolled through ancient sandstone streets that have remained unchanged for centuries. With its golden-hued architecture and timeless charm, Jaisalmer felt like a living relic of Rajasthan’s past.
Jaistalmar
Jaistalmar
Jaistalmar
Jaistalmar view from top of the old walls
Jain Nuns
Jain Nuns: A Life of Absolute Non-Violence
Jain nuns follow a strict philosophy of non-violence (ahimsa), believing they must avoid harming any living creature, even the tiniest organisms. To uphold this, they:
- Wear face masks to prevent accidentally inhaling microorganisms.
- Walk barefoot to avoid stepping on any living beings.
Their extreme dedication to non-violence and minimalism reflects the deep spiritual discipline of Jainism, making them some of the most devout ascetics in the world.
Desert nomad and her colorful clothes and jewelry
Walking Barefoot Among Thousands of Rats at Karni Mata Temple
From Jaisalmer, I hired a car to Bikaner, deep in the Thar Desert, to visit one of India’s most bizarre and unique temples—the 500-year-old Karni Mata Temple, also known as the Rat Temple.
Here, thousands of rats scurry freely, worshipped as reincarnated ancestors of devotees. No shoes are allowed, meaning I had to walk barefoot among the swarm of rodents—many of which crawled over my feet as I moved through the temple.
In one pitch-dark hallway, I could hear and feel the rats but couldn’t see them, making the experience even more surreal. Large bowls of milk were placed around the temple for the rats to drink, and spotting a white rat was considered a sign of good luck.
Strange, unsettling, yet deeply spiritual for devotees, Karni Mata was unlike any temple I had ever visited—a place where faith and folklore intertwine in the most unexpected way.
Karni Mata Temple
Karni Mata Temple
Karni Mata Temple
Sleeping in a Maharaja’s Palace
One of the most memorable stays of my Rajasthan journey was inside a former Maharaja’s palace, a grand residence once belonging to royalty. When India stripped the royals of their power, many lost their wealth, leading them to open their palaces to guests as a way to sustain their legacy.
Staying in a lavish, historic palace, once reserved for kings and nobility, was a surreal experience—a glimpse into India’s royal past, where faded grandeur still echoed through its ornate halls and regal courtyards.
Maharaja palace where I slept one night
A Rare Victory: Leaving India Without Getting Sick
From New Delhi, I flew home via India Airways, and to my amazement, after a full week in India, I did not get sick—a stark contrast to my previous visit, where I hadn’t been as lucky.
In a country known for incredible food, but also the infamous “Delhi Belly,” making it through without a hitch felt like an unexpected but much-appreciated victory to end an unforgettable journey.