Christmas in Iraq and a Winter Ascent of Mount Nemrut
December 2013: One of the key reasons I’ve been able to travel to most of the world while working full-time is my refusal to let any time off go to waste. With that mindset, I saw the Christmas holiday long weekend as the perfect opportunity for an adventure. Instead of staying home, I flew to Erbil, Iraq, with a plan to cross overland into eastern Turkey and make a winter ascent of Mount Nemrut.
I had no set plan for how I’d get from Erbil to Nemrut, but that was part of the excitement. The unknown—figuring it out as I went—was what made the journey truly worthwhile.
Asbout Kurdistan
Kurdistan: A Nation Without a Country
Kurdistan is a semi-autonomous region in northern Iraq, home to the Kurdish people, the largest ethnic group in the world without a country. While Kurdistan has self-governance, it remains officially part of Iraq. Kurds also inhabit eastern Turkey, northern Syria, and northern Iran, where they have long sought greater autonomy or independence.
Under Saddam Hussein’s rule, the Kurds were seen as a threat and heavily persecuted. His government killed at least 100,000 Kurds, including chemical attacks during the Anfal Campaign. After Saddam’s overthrow by US and NATO forces, the Kurds became key US allies, playing a vital role in the fight against ISIS.
Additionally, Kurdish militant groups such as the PKK (Kurdistan Workers’ Party) and YPG (People’s Protection Units) have been engaged in a longstanding separatist conflict with Turkey. The PKK is designated as a terrorist organization by Turkey, the US, and the EU, while the YPG, active in northern Syria, has been a key US partner in the fight against ISIS. In response, Turkey has launched numerous cross-border military operations into northern Iraq and Syria to target these groups.
Location of Erbil, capitol of Kurdish, Iraq
Arriving In the Middle of Night
Christmas Eve in Erbil: My First Visit to Iraq
I arrived in Erbil, the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan, at 2 AM on Christmas Eve, after a long journey from the USA via Istanbul on Pegasus Air. Traveling alone, I felt both excited and nervous—this was my first time in Iraq, and at the time, ISIS still controlled Mosul, just an hour’s drive away. While Erbil was relatively safe, occasional rocket strikes and suicide bombings had occurred.
Kurdistan is a semi-autonomous region in northern Iraq, home to the Kurdish people, the largest ethnic group in the world without a country. While it enjoys a degree of self-governance, it remains part of Iraq. Kurds also live in eastern Turkey, northern Syria, and northern Iran, and for decades, Kurdish militant groups (PKK, YPG, etc.) have been engaged in a separatist conflict with Turkey, leading to cross-border military operations into northern Iraq.
At Erbil airport, I quickly realized that almost no one spoke English. Though I had my hotel’s name written in Arabic, the taxi drivers were confused. Just as I started to feel stuck, a Kurdish man from my flight approached me and kindly offered to help. He spoke perfect English, explained my destination to the drivers, and even accompanied me in the taxi on his way into the city.
Thanks to his generosity, I made it to my hotel near the old city of Erbil, grabbed a few hours of sleep, and woke up ready to explore Kurdistan on Christmas Eve.
Exploring the Old City
Exploring the Ancient Citadel of Erbil
Perched atop a hill and surrounded by towering citadel walls, Erbil’s old city is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world, dating back to around 2300 BC. Entering the citadel required a steep climb to the top, where a handful of small souvenir shops lined the entrance.
Among the curiosities for sale, I found a ceramic plate featuring the image of Saddam Hussein and some old Iraqi dinars from his time in power—historical relics of a past era. Beyond the shops, however, the citadel was eerily abandoned, a city of ruins.
I wandered freely, ducking in and out of crumbling corridors, exploring ancient, unrestored buildings that time had left behind. Eventually, I reached a quiet section of the wall, where I could sit and gaze out over modern Erbil, a striking contrast to the forgotten city beneath my feet.
View from Old City on Christmas Eve with a Bright Christmas Star Above
View of the fountains and gardens of Erbil from the citadel
Alleyways inside the old city
Entrance into the old city
Saddam Hussein plate I bought at a shop selling all kinds of antiques, and items left over from the Saddam era
Exploring abandoned buildings in the old city
Exploring abandoned buildings in the old city
Old City
Hospitality and Endless Tea in Erbil
Everywhere I went in Erbil, I was greeted by friendly locals—and by locals, I mean men, since women were rarely seen in public. Strangers would stop me to ask my name, my country, and invite me for tea, a common gesture of hospitality in Kurdistan.
Many people wanted to stay in touch, asking for my email and phone number, and one man even handed me a wallet-sized photo of himself as a keepsake—an unexpected but kind gesture.
With so many tea invitations, I lost count of how many cups I drank. By the end of my stay, the caffeine had caught up with me, and I started experiencing heart palpitations—a small price to pay for experiencing true Kurdish hospitality.
friendly Kurdish Locals I Met
Smoking Sisha with the locals
friendly Kurdish Locals I Met
Some shopworkers jamming out to some traditional tunes. I followed the music to their shop and they happily performed for me.
Man selling Muslim prayer beads
Kurdish men is traditional clothing and turban worn by many older Kurdish men in public
The Bustling Markets of Erbil
Near Erbil’s old city, the market was alive with lights, noise, and energy, packed with vendors selling everything from exotic nuts and spices to abayas for women and intricate jewelry. It was a chaotic yet fascinating glimpse into daily life in Kurdistan.
Even though it was Christmas Eve, there was no sign of the holiday—except for one small booth, where a group of children were selling Santa Claus masks, a subtle and unexpected reminder of the day.
Souq near the old city
Souq near the old city
Souq store selling womens abaya
Boys selling Santa Clauss masks
Boy who were selling Santa masks posing for me
A Kurdish Christmas in Erbil
Spending Christmas away from my girlfriend and family felt a bit lonely, but the day took an unexpected turn when my Kurdish friend from the airport stopped by my hotel to check on me and invited me out for dinner.
We headed to the Chaldean Christian quarter, one of the few places in Erbil where Christmas was visible. The streets were decorated, and the restaurant we chose had a Christmas tree—a small but welcome reminder of home.
As we ate, a Chaldean wedding unfolded around us, complete with loud Arabic techno music, boisterous dancing, and celebratory hollering. It was a surreal yet joyful way to spend Christmas in Iraq, surrounded by the warmth of new friends and unexpected celebrations.
Christmas tree in Chaldean part of town
Bus to Turkish Border
The Journey to Turkey: A Bus Ride Through Kurdistan
On my third day in Erbil, it was time to head toward the Turkish border. My Kurdish friend from the airport met me at my hotel one last time, helping me purchase my bus ticket and get on the right minibus—a small, cramped vehicle packed with people.
The drive through northern Kurdistan was both beautiful and tense. We passed through snowcapped mountains, picturesque villages, and numerous military checkpoints. The Kurdish military officers were always polite and never hassled me. At one point, we were just a few miles from ISIS-controlled territory, separated only by a fortified line of Kurdish and Iraqi soldiers with U.S. military air support.
A Syrian Travel Companion
On the bus, I befriended a middle-aged Syrian man living in Iraq who spoke English fluently. At every stop, he insisted on buying me tea and sharing his story, reflecting the fierce hospitality I had encountered throughout Kurdistan.
What made him especially interesting—or suspicious—was that he traveled with a briefcase full of $100 bills. He proudly told me he was heading into northern Syria from Turkey to pick up his third wife, who was stranded there. He openly flashed his cash, but I didn’t ask questions.
As the journey continued, he took me under his wing, looking out for me in a way that bordered on possessiveness. Even when there were open seats, he insisted I sit next to him. At first, I found him overbearing, but eventually, I realized this was simply his way of showing kindness.
A Complicated Border Crossing
Crossing into Turkey was long and chaotic, but my Syrian friend proved invaluable, helping me navigate the confusion. Once through, we boarded another bus together, heading in the same direction.
Somewhere in the middle of nowhere, on a cold winter night, I was dropped off at a roadside intersection—the route I needed to take toward Mount Nemrut. My Syrian friend was furious, believing it was too dangerous for me to be alone. As I waved goodbye, he shook his head, looking genuinely upset that I was leaving him behind.
And just like that, I was alone again—standing in the freezing dark, on the road to my next adventure.
Kurdish Mountains