September 2021: North Macedonia is one of Europe’s newer countries, having been part of the communist Eastern Bloc nation of Yugoslavia until the early 1990s. It wasn’t until Yugoslavia collapsed with the fall of communism that North Macedonia, along with six other Balkan nations, gained independence. While communism no longer exists in North Macedonia, its legacy remains visible in the country’s architecture, monuments, and the diverse mix of ethnic and religious groups—Serbs, Croats, Christians, Muslims, and others—who settled there from across the former Yugoslavia. The country also has a significant Albanian population.

In 2018, North Macedonia officially changed its name from “Macedonia” due to a long-standing dispute with neighboring Greece over the historical claim to the name. The conflict stemmed from both nations’ connection to Alexander the Great, who, 25 centuries ago, ruled one of the largest empires stretching from Egypt to India and Tibet. Since ancient Macedonia encompassed territory in both modern-day Greece and North Macedonia, both countries laid claim to his legacy. As a result of this dispute, Greece blocked Macedonia’s entry into the European Union and NATO. A compromise was finally reached in 2018: Greece retained the name for its northern province of Macedonia, while the country of Macedonia rebranded itself as North Macedonia. Although tensions remain beneath the surface, both sides have officially moved on from the naming conflict.

North Macedonia was the last country in the Balkans I had yet to visit, and conveniently, there was a direct flight to its capital, Skopje, from Warsaw, Poland, via LOT Airlines. We took the morning flight and arranged for a driver to pick us up at the airport. I would have liked to spend more time in the country, but no matter how I reconfigured our itinerary, I couldn’t squeeze out more than one day in North Macedonia. We had to be in Crete the following evening to meet friends, which meant traveling overland from Skopje to Tirana, Albania, in one day to catch a flight from Tirana to Athens the next morning.

Interestingly, there were no direct flights between Skopje and Athens for several days, making the overland route our only option. Perhaps the lack of direct air connections is another lingering consequence of the historical tensions between the two nations. Meanwhile, Albania, Greece’s other neighbor, had plenty of direct flights to Athens, highlighting the contrast in regional travel dynamics.

How to Get there?

Map of North Macedonia

Skopje 

We arrived at Skopje Airport in the late morning aboard a LOT Polish Airlines flight. Midway through the flight, I realized we were on a Boeing 737 Supermax—the same model that had been grounded the previous year due to technical failures that caused two planes to plummet from the sky. While we didn’t plummet, the turbulence during our descent over the mountains made for a tense landing.

Once on the ground, we met our Albanian taxi driver, who, unsurprisingly, was driving a Mercedes—a car brand seemingly ubiquitous in Albania. Without wasting any time, we set off on the long drive, hoping to see as much as possible along the way.

Our first stop was a drive through Skopje to take in its famous oversized monuments, particularly those of Alexander the Great. In 2014, the city erected dozens of massive statues throughout the capital in an effort to attract tourists, making it one of the most monument-heavy capitals I’ve visited.

Beyond the flashy new monuments, a stark contrast emerged—the city’s communist-era apartment blocks, remnants from when North Macedonia was part of Yugoslavia before its collapse in the early ‘90s. These aging structures had a certain grimness to them, though it looked like there were ongoing efforts to revitalize them and soften their drab aesthetic.

One of the Many Giant Statues Found in Skopje. 

Communist Block Apartments in Skopje. 

 Totovo Painted Mosque

After Skopje, our second stop was the Muslim town of Tetovo to visit the Painted Mosque. Originally constructed in 1438 during the Ottoman Empire, this mosque is renowned for its stunning interior, which is adorned with an incredible array of decorations. The paintings are said to have been made with pigments derived from thousands of eggs, giving the artwork a unique shine and texture that sets it apart from other mosque paintings.

We spent about 30 minutes inside the mosque, admiring the intricate artwork while a few worshippers prayed quietly in the background. The cover photo shows Paula inside the Painted Mosque, taking in the stunning decor.

Totovo Painted Mosque

Totovo Painted Mosque

Lake Ohrid

After visiting the Muslim town, we continued our journey over a mountain pass to Lake Ohrid, an alpine lake renowned for its ancient Christian monasteries that line its shores.

It was a Sunday, and the road heading back to Skopje was packed with traffic. It seemed that many people from the capital head to Lake Ohrid to escape the summer heat, and with it being the end of August, the tail end of summer vacation for many, the area was especially crowded.

The lake itself is vast and incredibly deep—it holds the title of the deepest lake in Europe, reaching depths of up to 1,000 feet. Surrounded by mountains, with one being a national park, the area is also home to wild animals such as bears and wolves. Lake Ohrid is shared between North Macedonia and Albania, adding to its international charm.

Lake Ohrid

Local Man Relaxing on Lake Ohrid

We made a stop in the town of Ohrid, but it was far too crowded with Macedonian tourists to truly enjoy. So, we decided to continue our journey along the shore of Lake Ohrid to visit the Monastery of St. Naum, hoping to find more tranquility and solitude.

St. Naum Monastery 

We arrived at the Monastery of St. Naum, which was established during the time when Bulgaria ruled the area in 900. Unfortunately, the place felt more like a tourist carnival than a peaceful retreat. Although it is still an active monastery, the usual tranquility of such places was overshadowed by hordes of selfie-taking Macedonian tourists. It wasn’t quite what I had imagined. Apparently, five years ago, the government developed the area, adding shops and restaurants to attract more visitors. While the location itself was stunning, nestled beneath the mountains and next to a beautiful spring that feeds into the lake, I couldn’t help but wish I had seen it before the development.

The interior of the monastery, however, was incredible. Fortunately, we had it nearly to ourselves by the end of the day. The murals inside were ancient and beautifully decayed. St. Naum’s tomb is located there, and we observed a few people kneeling by it, placing their ears to the stone. It’s said that if you do this, St. Naum will whisper blessings to you, as he was known to be a man of the people. Paula tried this, but sadly St. Naum chose not to whisper anything to her. Outside the church, a monk was selling souvenirs, and Paula bought a cross from him. As a gift, he gave her a free prayer scroll.

Tomb of the Monk of St. Naum

Inside St. Naum

Tomb of the Monk of St. Naum

Monastery of St. Naum

After leaving St. Naum, we drove through the village where our driver had grown up. He was born there before moving to Albania, where he lived for decades under one of the world’s most ruthless and paranoid communist dictators—Enver Hoxha. Our driver shared a story from his childhood, recalling a time when, as a boy riding his bicycle, he accidentally came across Hoxha and his security detail. To his surprise, Hoxha greeted him with a simple “Good morning.” It was a chilling reminder of the extent of Hoxha’s control over the country. Crossing the border into Albania was remarkably easy—we didn’t even have to exit the vehicle.

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