March 2009/Day 1: I wanted to visit the Galápagos Islands, a remote archipelago of volcanic islands famed for their unique wildlife, which played a crucial role in Charles Darwin’s theory of natural selection. My goal was to experience the wildlife and raw wilderness of the islands without the high costs and restrictions of boat tours. However, some islands are only accessible by boat, making independent travel challenging. After researching the main islands with flight access, I decided that San Cristóbal Island would offer the best wildlife opportunities while still allowing for independent exploration.
A key priority for me was seeing the iconic Galápagos giant tortoise in the wild rather than in a sanctuary. Additionally, I wanted to experience high-quality diving, particularly with megafauna like hammerhead sharks. San Cristóbal Island provided both of these opportunities, making it the ideal choice.
I traveled to San Cristóbal with my friends Sterling and Evan, and we spent a week on the island. We arranged budget accommodations in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno and set off to explore. One of our first stops was La Lobería, home to sea lion colonies, land iguanas, and marine iguanas basking on the rocky shores. We also visited Cerro de las Tijeretas, also known as Frigatebird Hill, where we observed these magnificent seabirds soaring overhead.
Despite the frigid water, we snorkeled with sea lions, marine iguanas, and giant sea turtles, making for an unforgettable experience. However, one encounter nearly turned into a disaster. While snorkeling, I unknowingly drifted too close to a sea lion pup. Its mother, perceiving me as a threat, lunged at me with bared teeth, aiming for my crotch. Instinctively, I leaped out of the water, shielding myself with my hands. At the last moment, she veered away when I backed off, leaving me shaken but unharmed.
San Cristóbal provided everything I had hoped for—close encounters with incredible wildlife, immersive nature experiences, and the freedom to explore independently.
Marine Iguana
Sea lion
Evan swimming with a sea turtle
Frigate Bird during mating season puffing up a bright red throat sac
The town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno isn’t very large and is easy to explore on foot. Many Ecuadorians have settled here, hoping to capitalize on tourism, while the government struggles to control migration from the mainland to protect the fragile environment of the Galápagos. One of the most fascinating aspects of the town is how completely the sea lions dominate it. With no fear of humans, they take over the waterfront by day and move further inland by night, claiming park benches, sidewalks, and anything else they please. They snore, grunt, smell, and occasionally let out foul bursts of gas—completely oblivious to the curious humans observing them.
Day 2: We went diving and arranged a boat dive with a local dive company to Kicker Rock, an inverted volcano that rises dramatically from the ocean and is renowned for its megafauna, including hammerhead sharks. Before heading to the main site, we did an introductory dive to test our abilities in the water, starting with playful sea lions.
Swimming with sea lions
The dive was only 30 feet deep, but it was teeming with playful sea lions that darted around us like torpedoes, sometimes pausing just a meter away to curiously observe us. Despite the professionalism expected from a dive company, they never checked our scuba certifications. One of my friends, who had never dived before, falsely claimed to be certified. Without any training, he was taken to Kicker Rock—a deep dive site known for strong currents.
Unsurprisingly, he struggled with buoyancy control. At one point, while I was in pursuit of a Galápagos shark, I caught a glimpse of him rocketing past me, completely out of control, as he shot toward the surface. Fortunately, he avoided any serious injury, and despite the near mishap, we all had an incredible time diving.
Sterling and I on the dive boat
Kicker Rock-an inverted volcano underwater
Evan, Sterling and I on the way to Kicker Rock
Kicker Rock did not disappoint. We did two dives there, and to this day, it remains one of my favorite dive experiences. While there are more renowned dive sites in the Galápagos, such as Gordon Rocks and Darwin, Kicker Rock is exceptional for encounters with megafauna.
We saw numerous Galápagos sharks, sea turtles, and bat rays, all up close. At one point, we even spotted hammerhead sharks gliding above us—a thrilling sight that made the dive even more unforgettable.
Remote beach with no access via road or trail. We stopped here on the way back from Kicker Rock
Day 3: I arranged a private boat tour to explore the remote parts of the island and be dropped off at a secluded beach, where we could hike to see wild Galápagos tortoises roaming freely in their natural habitat—completely outside of enclosures. Nearly every place I found on both San Cristóbal and Santa Cruz featured tortoises in small enclosures, making the experience feel more like a zoo than a true wilderness encounter. After some research, I found a boat operator based in Quito who assured me we could visit the tortoises, despite other operators insisting it wasn’t allowed. The private boat wasn’t cheap, so I recruited a few fellow travelers to share the cost.
Our journey began in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno before heading to the remote, wildlife-rich Punta Pitt on the island’s northern tip. As we started our return, the captain casually remarked, “I hope you had a good trip.” Confused, I asked if we were stopping at Galapaguera, where the company had explicitly promised we could see wild tortoises. I even had a printed email confirming the stop. The captain, however, flatly told me, “No, this is not possible. That stop is forbidden.”
Frustrated but realizing that arguing wouldn’t get me anywhere, I convinced him to at least drop us off at a beach near Galapaguera. When we arrived, I made it clear that we had been promised a stop to see the tortoises and that we would hike to find them—with or without his permission. Without hesitation, I stepped off the boat into the ocean, determined to reach the trail. The captain protested, warning that this was against park rules and that we were proceeding at our own risk. Calling his bluff, we set off on the only visible trail from the beach, venturing alone without a guide.
The hike was grueling—an hour-long trek over sharp lava rock, under the relentless sun, with little shade or relief from the heat. Doubts crept in as I worried we might get lost or never find the tortoises. But suddenly, we emerged into a small grove of trees, where we were met with an incredible sight—dozens of giant tortoises lounging in the shade, clustered beneath the trees. Some were even mating. The tortoises showed no fear, allowing us to approach closely, though we respectfully kept our distance to avoid disturbing them.
Punta Pitt
Red footed booty bird that we saw at Punta Pitt
More sea lions and fur seals at Punta Pitt
Fur seal at Punta Pitt
Beach at Galapaguera on the north of the island. The beach has no access by road and is deep in the national park.
Hike over lava rock from the remote Galapaguera
A cluster of wild Galapagos Tortoises we encountered at Galapaguera
Me with a wild Galapagos Tortoises we encountered at Galapaguera
Mating tortoises at Galapaguera-
Many of the tortoises we saw were likely over 150 years old, as they don’t even reach sexual maturity until around 70. We watched in awe for at least ten minutes as two tortoises engaged in their slow and deliberate mating ritual. Careful not to disturb them, we observed from a respectful distance, knowing that tortoise intercourse can last for hours—sometimes even an entire day.
The female, seemingly uninterested, continued munching on grass, entirely unfazed by the ordeal. Meanwhile, the male groaned and grunted with effort, his long neck stretching out from his shell in a display of determination. The contrast between the two was both amusing and fascinating, a rare glimpse into the intimate lives of these ancient creatures.
We returned to the beach where our boat was waiting, only to be met by an impatient and visibly angry captain, who demanded we hurry up and board. As we climbed aboard, we noticed another boat approaching in the distance. Within moments, it caught up with us, and we realized it was the Galápagos National Park rangers in uniform.
The rangers questioned us about our activities, and we casually responded that we had just been looking at the beach. They pressed further, asking if we had set foot on the beach. We denied it, but they firmly informed us that visiting the area was strictly prohibited. At that moment, it became clear—the captain had been right all along, and the company that arranged the boat had lied to me about the itinerary.
Back at the marina, just when we thought the ordeal was over, the captain threw another surprise at us. He suddenly demanded several hundred dollars more than the agreed-upon price. I pointed out that my email confirmation clearly stated a fixed price for the boat, covering a maximum number of passengers. The captain, however, insisted that the price was per person and claimed we owed an additional $300 for the extra three travelers.
Frustrated but knowing we had proof, I advised everyone to walk away, making it clear that this dispute was between the captain and the parent company—not us. Enraged, the captain threatened to call the police, but we kept walking. After all, I had an email confirming we were in the right.
Day 4: The next morning, Sterling and I departed for Quito by plane. Upon landing, I received a message from Evan and the other two travelers, informing me that they had been detained by police upon arriving in Santa Cruz by ferry. The authorities were holding them due to the alleged non-payment of funds related to our boat tour.
For over an hour, they explained the situation, detailing how the boat company had misled us and how we had already paid the agreed-upon amount. Eventually, the police determined there wasn’t enough evidence to justify holding them and let them go.
Although everything ultimately worked out, I felt terrible for having unknowingly hired such a dishonest company. What should have been a seamless adventure had turned into an unnecessary ordeal, causing stress and inconvenience for everyone involved.