April 2024: As part of our three-week baby bonding family trip with our infant daughter across Europe and Morocco, we spent a week exploring Berlin and Bavaria, Germany, along with a few nights in the Austrian Alps.
I have a deep interest in the Cold War and WWII, and since Berlin was the epicenter of both events, the city is filled with significant landmarks. Berlin had been on my travel list for a long time, and even though it was challenging to fit it into our ambitious itinerary, I found a way to make it work, even if we only had one night and almost two full days to explore the city.
To make the most of our time and ensure we could easily see the highlights on foot, I booked a hotel right across the street from the Topography of Terror Museum, which was once the headquarters for the Nazi SS and Gestapo. Berlin is a vast city with so much to offer, but we managed to see most of the key sights within the two days we had, even with a baby in tow.
Despite the freezing cold and occasional rain, we genuinely enjoyed walking through the city, especially at night when the echoes of its past seemed to come to life. The atmosphere was both haunting and captivating, making our short stay in Berlin an unforgettable experience.
Our route across Germany
Our highrise hotel overlooking the city
Cold War Era Berlin
When the Nazis were defeated by the Soviets and Allied forces in World War II, the country and the capital city of Berlin were divided between the two powers. Eastern Germany became communist, while the west adopted a democratic system. The situation in Berlin was further complicated by the fact that the city was entirely surrounded by communist East Germany, with the western half controlled by the Allied forces. To prevent citizens from fleeing East Berlin in search of freedom, the communists constructed the Berlin Wall, complete with barbed wire and watchtowers manned by soldiers. Those attempting to escape were often shot on the spot.
The Soviets tried to blockade West Berlin but ultimately failed due to successful supply air drops from Allied forces. The struggle continued until communism fell in 1989, driven by citizen revolts that led to the collapse of the government and the Soviet Union that supported it. Eventually, Germany was reunified, and today, most of the Berlin Wall has been removed, serving as a stark reminder of the oppressive past of communism. Only a few sections remain, along with the remnants of other communist structures.
Many of the Soviet-era apartment blocks have been torn down and replaced with modern buildings, while those that remain have undergone significant renovations. I was eager to see a guard tower and followed its location on Google Maps, but I was disappointed to discover it was not a construction site; it was completely enshrouded by a metal container and was scheduled to be removed to another location. The only watchtower that remains is at Checkpoint Charlie, which has transformed into a very touristy area filled with vendors selling cheap souvenirs.
Berlin wall checkpoint charlie
Paula pushing Indie near a remnant of the Berlin wall
Small section of Berlin wall near an apartment building
One of the old communist german cars no longer used except for collectors items
Section of Berlin wall at night
Nazi Era in Berlin
Another past that Berlin is not proud of is its Nazi history. Following the fall of the regime, there was a concerted effort to distance the city from this era and to prevent any glorification of Nazi leaders. As a result, few buildings from that time remain; most were destroyed during World War II. The structures that do exist have largely been transformed into museums or memorials dedicated to the victims of the Holocaust and the war. For example, the bunker where Hitler died was buried, and today, an apartment building parking lot sits above it, with only a small informational sign marking the site’s significance.
One of the most iconic locations associated with the Nazis is the Brandenburg Gate. Although it was constructed long before the Nazi era, I vividly recall watching documentaries that featured Hitler delivering fiery speeches and holding massive rallies in front of this historic landmark.
A particularly poignant reminder of the Nazi horrors is the Topography of Terror Museum, which was built on the site of the Gestapo and SS headquarters that were destroyed in the war. The museum is free to the public and serves as a stark reminder of the atrocities committed by the Nazis. Adjacent to the museum, visitors can find the largest remaining section of the Berlin Wall, further linking the city’s history of oppression and division.
Brandenburg Gate built in the 1700s and once the location for Nazi parades and assemblies
Holocaust memorial monument
Hitler Portayed at the ruins of the SS and Gestapo Building
Beneath the parking lot lies the ruins of the bunkers where Hitler and his wife, Eva Braun, took their final breaths. She ingested a cyanide pill, while he chose to end his life with a self-inflicted gunshot to the head. It’s difficult to fathom living a normal life and raising a family in an apartment above the very site where Hitler spent his last moments as Soviet troops closed in on Berlin, signaling the imminent fall of the Nazi regime. In the garden above, SS soldiers cremated Hitler’s body in an attempt to prevent it from being captured by the Soviets, who they feared would desecrate it. This dark chapter of history looms quietly beneath the surface of everyday life, a stark reminder of the horrors that once unfolded in the heart of the city.
Onlya sign remains at the location of the bunkers where Hitler took his own life at the end of the battle of Berlin
When I visited this place, I saw what I thought were stray dogs in the tall grass next to it. I was wrong. it was a large population of huge dark rats fighting with each other over the food that someone was leaving for them or pigeons. There were dozens of them, and they were brazened enough to scurry across the sidewalk in plain view next to pedestrians. This experience kind of summed up my observations of berlin. it was historical, modern and yet very gritty at the sometime.
An Oldbuilding half demolished by bombs in WWII that still stands
The Reichstag Building, home to the German Parliament, is steeped in a dark history that predates World War II. It was deliberately set on fire by the Nazis in 1933, a strategic move that they blamed on communists and Jews. This act of arson served as a catalyst for the Nazis to push through the Reichstag Fire Decree, which suspended basic civil rights and allowed for the arrest of political opponents. This emergency act laid the groundwork for the systematic rounding up of Jews and other marginalized groups, ultimately leading to the horrors of the extermination camps. The Reichstag remains a potent symbol of the fragility of democracy and the dangers of totalitarianism.
Statue damaged by bombs in WWII
Indie’s First Train Ride
From Berlin, we took the train to Munich, opting for Business Class for a little extra room, which was especially nice for my daughter’s first train ride. The journey offered beautiful views of the German countryside, making the ride enjoyable once we were settled.
However, getting on the train was a nightmare. I’m used to traveling light with just a backpack, but traveling with a baby introduced new challenges. With all our large suitcases, navigating public transport became a logistical puzzle. We had more luggage than we could handle, and the narrow aisles made it difficult to find our seats.
Feeling like rookie travelers added to our frustration, but we were fortunate that a few kind passengers jumped up to help us. They blocked the aisle so we could maneuver through and even assisted us in locating our seats, turning a stressful situation into a reminder of the kindness of strangers.
Train from Berlin to Munich and Indie’s first train
Bavarian Alps
We arrived in Munich in the afternoon and quickly picked up a rental car for our journey to the Bavarian Alps, where I had a room booked for the night in a traditional Bavarian inn. The drive was only supposed to take a few hours, but as we ventured deeper into the mountains and the snow began to fall heavier, it became clear that this would not be an ordinary drive.
Visibility at night was nearly zero, and I struggled to see the lanes of the highway. I followed the big Eastern European trucks in the slow lane since their giant reflectors were easy to spot and provided a reference point in the storm. After an hour of navigating this challenging drive, I decided that my family’s safety was more important than reaching our original destination, so I booked a local inn off the highway for the night.
Although I missed out on the hike to the Eagle’s Nest that I had hoped to do, we had the opportunity to explore a new village with a beautiful old medieval church, making the detour worthwhile.
A traditional Bavarian inn we stayed at south of Munich
Catholic chirch in bavaria
Statues of Vatholic biships from Bavaria that were very old
One day in the German Alps, we got lucky with perfect weather, and the beauty of nature’s tapestry was on full display. The sky was a brilliant blue, and the sun illuminated the snow-capped peaks, creating a stunning contrast against the lush green valleys. We set out to explore the trails, taking in the breathtaking views of the mountains and the charming alpine villages scattered below. It was the kind of day that reminded us why we travel—to immerse ourselves in the beauty of the world and create lasting memories together.
German Alps
German Alps
German Alps
To the Home of Hitler and Eagle’s Nest
We visited the small village of Obersalzberg, once an obscure alpine retreat that transformed dramatically when Hitler decided to build his second home, the Berghof, there, drawn by the idyllic beauty of the surroundings. This decision led to the village and the surrounding areas becoming a restricted zone, aimed at protecting Hitler and other high-ranking SS commanders who followed suit by constructing their own homes in the area. As a result, local Bavarians who had lived there for generations were forced to abandon their lands and homes.
In this secluded setting, vast networks of underground bunkers, tunnels, and air raid shelters were developed to ensure the safety of Hitler and his commanders. It’s estimated that he spent nearly a third of each year at the Berghof, making critical decisions regarding battles and the Holocaust.
Today, the remnants of the Nazi structures have largely vanished, with the Berghof and the homes of other commanders destroyed during the war. The only surviving site is the Eagle’s Nest and a vast underground bunker complex located beneath a museum dedicated to the history of the Nazis and Hitler’s influence in the region. Walking through the tunnels was a fascinating experience, making me ponder whether Hitler ever imagined that the bunkers, once designed for his protection, would one day become a tourist attraction—one that my infant daughter would visit in her stroller. I suspect that thought never crossed his mind.
Nazi bunker complex in the town of Berchtesgaden southern bavaria where hitler lived
Nazi bunker complex in the town of Berchtesgaden southern bavaria where hitler lived
The Eagle’s Nest, perched high above the mountain, served as a meeting place for Hitler and SS officials, though he rarely utilized it due to his fear of heights. It’s situated above the snowline, and reaching it would require hiking a long trail buried under deep snow. I had a strong desire to make the trek, but time constraints prevented me from doing so.
In the summer months, when the snow melts, the road to the Eagle’s Nest opens up, making it accessible to tourists. There’s even a beer garden at the summit, where visitors can relax, admire the stunning views, and enjoy a beer in a location that once hosted discussions about world domination among Nazi officials. It’s a striking juxtaposition of history and leisure that highlights the complexities of the site.
Kehlsteinhaus-Eagles nest where Hiteler and some of the nazi officials would meet on a Mountain top
Near Death Experience Driving on the Autobahn
On our way to Munich, we were driving in the middle lane, which is my preferred spot on the Autobahn. This way, I could avoid the fast lane, where sleek German BMWs zip by at 200 mph, and the slow lane, where Eastern European trucks lumber along at a mere 50 mph.
As we rounded a bend downhill, a truck unexpectedly veered into our lane to avoid a car that had stalled in the slow lane. Like much of the Autobahn, there was no shoulder to safely pull over. I had to slam on the brakes to avoid rear-ending the truck and swerved into the slow lane. Just as I managed to regain control, I realized we were now stopped on a blind bend. I watched in horror through the rearview mirror as cars and trucks barreled down, slamming on their brakes in a desperate attempt to avoid us. Fear gripped me—I thought for sure someone would crash into us. I made the split-second decision to gun it into the fast lane from a complete stop, maneuvering around the truck. It was terrifying, but I barely pulled it off without incident.
After that heart-pounding experience, we spent our last night in Munich near the airport. We made sure to unwind by visiting a beer garden, treating ourselves to some well-deserved giant beers, pretzels, and hefty chunks of meat. It was the perfect way to cap off our incredible trip.