Short Trip into the Canadian Rockies
June 2023: For our final “babymoon” trip, my wife, her mom, and I took advantage of the direct flights from San Diego to Alberta, Canada, to explore what I consider the wildest and most breathtaking part of the Rocky Mountains: the northern Canadian section within Jasper and Banff National Parks. This region of the Rockies feels pristine and rugged, with a vast 6,672 square miles of protected wilderness that is home to rare species like wolves, grizzly bears, and mountain lions. The more common sightings of moose, elk, and black bears add to the incredible feeling of being deep in nature.
To maximize our four-day weekend, we also visited Yoho National Park across the border in British Columbia. Given Paula’s pregnancy, we kept things low-key, minimizing our hikes and skipping camping. Still, we managed to fully enjoy the stunning alpine scenery, clear blue lakes, and expansive forests. It was a refreshing retreat, surrounded by nature at its finest—untamed and beautifully preserved
Route of our trip
We began our journey by flying into Edmonton, a city largely sustained by the tar sand oil industry, which has given Canada the second-largest oil reserves globally, just behind Saudi Arabia. However, our time in Edmonton was brief, so I can’t give a full impression. After landing, we grabbed a taxi to downtown, picked up our rental car, and immediately hit the road for Jasper, a small mountain town that serves as the gateway to Jasper National Park.
The 3-hour drive from Edmonton mostly crossed flat, unremarkable plains, but as we neared Jasper, the scenery transformed. We found ourselves surrounded by dense forestland and awe-inspiring mountains. Every scenic viewpoint was tempting, with stunning views of alpine lakes and peaks towering above. Along the way, we spotted a huge elk grazing near the road, too many deer to count, and even a coyote darting across our path. Just outside of Jasper, we encountered a park ranger doing his best to shoo a curious black bear back into the forest—a reminder of the wildness that awaited us in Jasper National Park.
Massive elk feeding on vegetation on the side of the road
Black bear-one of three we saw on the road
The extended daylight hours in these far northern latitudes gave us plenty of time to explore, but it also made it challenging to settle down for the night with sunlight lingering well into the evening. While the extra daylight was perfect for taking in the views and spotting wildlife, it definitely threw off our sleep schedule.
Another key factor when planning a trip here is the expense. Accommodations are limited, especially in peak summer season, and prices are high, as are food costs. To save a bit, I opted for one-room hotel bookings and packed my sleeping bag and inflatable mattress in case floor space became my bed for the night. For our first night, we stayed in a tourist resort in Jasper—a small, charming town surrounded by mountains. Despite the expense, the rugged beauty and wild surroundings made every bit of the effort and cost worth it.
Paula posing in front of the mountains on the first glimpse we had of the Canadian Rocky’s
Jasper National Park
Jasper National Park had a wilder, more remote feel compared to the busier Banff. Though we did see clusters of vehicles at some of the popular spots, I made a point to pull over at unmarked locations or quieter overlooks. This way, we often had stunning views of lakes and mountains all to ourselves. Every twist in the road revealed another breathtaking scene, whether it was a jagged peak towering over a dense forest or a lake reflecting the deep blues and greens of the landscape. Jasper’s ruggedness and untamed beauty left us in awe at every turn, capturing the essence of the Rockies at their most pristine.
A crystal clear lake we hiked to and had to ourselves
Paula overlooking an emerald green lake
Waterfall with mountain backdrop
Mountain overlook
Heavenly Views
Paula and mom on short hike
Driving along the Icefields Parkway was an unforgettable experience, especially as it climbed toward the 7,000-foot pass draped in glaciers. Though not the highest elevation, the combination of latitude and weaker sunlight at that height creates an environment where temperatures drop sharply, supporting glacier formation across the rugged peaks.
After crossing the pass, we stayed at a cluster of cabins at Saskatchewan Crossing. Tucked into a vast mountain valley surrounded by untamed forests, the area felt raw and isolated, with an almost mystical quality. The wilderness here is prime habitat for both grizzly and black bears, adding a thrill to our stay. Being so close to nature in this remote, wild setting was an incredible way to experience the Rockies’ quieter, untouched side.
Paula overlooking a glacier
The lakes of Jasper and Banff were like scenes from a postcard, each one radiating unique shades of blue and green. These surreal colors are thanks to the region’s granite bedrock, which glaciers have ground down into fine rock dust. When the glaciers melt, they carry this reflective “glacial flour” into the lakes, giving the water its vibrant hue.
While both parks had spectacular lakes, Banff’s were particularly unforgettable. A standout for us was Waterfowl Lake, where we were lucky to enjoy the tranquil beauty with almost no other tourists around. The calm, mirror-like surface reflected the surrounding peaks perfectly, making it feel like a hidden gem in the Rockies. The colors and the solitude there truly made it one of the highlights of our trip.
One of the emerald green lakes-Waterfowl lake
Jagged Mountains
Peyto Lake
Bow Lake
Paula at Bow Lake
Lake Louise
Banff and Jasper were pleasantly quieter than I’d expected. I was bracing for Yellowstone-level crowds and gridlocked roads, but these parks’ vastness and remote location kept visitor numbers low. For the most part, we felt like we had the incredible landscapes to ourselves—until we got to Lake Louise. It was a completely different experience there, more like stepping into a separate, bustling world.
Lake Louise is famed for its stunning beauty, and it’s easy to see why—its turquoise water set against towering mountains is mesmerizing. But the reality of visiting it is more exhausting than enjoyable. By the time you navigate the traffic, battle for parking, and wade through crowds, any initial excitement is drained. Instead of the peaceful immersion I’d hoped for, it was like a “circus” of selfie sticks, TikTok dancers, and influencers filling every inch of the lakeshore. The atmosphere left me wanting to escape back to the quieter, untouched parts of the Rockies.
Lake Louise
Yoho National Park, British Colombia
Yoho National Park was a breath of fresh air after the bustling scene at Lake Louise. Located just west of Banff, Yoho is a bit off the main tourist track, so it felt quieter and more personal. The winding, narrow roads also gave it a cozier mountain vibe compared to the larger highways in Banff, making every turn feel like a new discovery.
The hikes in Yoho were incredible, offering views of towering peaks, dense forests, and even a few hidden waterfalls. It felt like we were getting a more authentic, untouched experience of the Rockies—fewer crowds, just pure wilderness and solitude. If you’re looking for a quieter escape with equally stunning landscapes, Yoho is absolutely worth the visit.
Takakkaw Falls-833′ High
Yoho National Park
Staying in Canmore turned out to be a perfect way to end the trip. With fewer tourists and more affordable lodging options, it still offered those breathtaking mountain views and the charm of a mountain town. We could unwind and enjoy the scenery without the crowds, and still explore a few local cafes and restaurants to get a taste of the area.
The convenience of being only an hour from Calgary made it easy to head out in the morning for our flight, and it saved us from a pre-dawn start if we’d stayed deeper in Banff. Canmore really balanced accessibility with that Rocky Mountain feel, making it the ideal last stop before heading home.