Camping Among the Lesser Known Nubian Pyramids in the Country of Sudan Where You Are More Likely to Encounter a Desert Nomad than another Tourist

Exploring Sudan’s Ancient Wonders Amidst Political Turmoil

November 2010: At the time of my journey, and for many years prior, Sudan was frequently portrayed as a villain in international headlines. Sudanese President Omar Bashir had been publicly condemned by President George W. Bush as a supporter of terrorism and accused of terrorizing his own citizens in Darfur and South Sudan. Due to these tensions, U.S.-Sudan relations were at an all-time low, resulting in heavy sanctions and travel restrictions.

Consequently, obtaining a visa wasn’t straightforward, and approval was uncertain at best. Reliable local fixers were scarce, and those available charged steep fees. To further complicate matters, hiring a fixer meant they would need to sponsor my visa application, obligating me to purchase their tour services, driving up costs significantly.

Yet, despite these hurdles, my determination to visit Sudan was unwavering. With only five days available, I decided that hiring my own vehicle and driver—though expensive—was the best strategy for maximizing my limited time. My goal was to witness firsthand the incredible historical sites along the Nile River, remnants of the Nubian Kush Kingdom, famously ruled by the Black Pharaohs.

Over those five unforgettable days, I journeyed north along the Nile, exploring magnificent pyramids and archaeological wonders that few visitors ever get to see. Camping near the breathtaking pyramids of Meroë, I found myself completely alone, surrounded only by ancient monuments standing silent guard over the desert sands. Each site was deserted, offering me a rare and intimate glimpse into Sudan’s extraordinary past.

This is my story of traveling through Sudan—experiencing its beauty, complexity, and timeless solitude.

Five Days in Sudan: Exploring Ancient Kingdoms and Desert Landscapes

At the time of my visit, Sudan was Africa’s largest country, a land of vast deserts, tropical grasslands, and the lifeline of the Nile River. The north and south felt like two different worlds—the north was an arid desert, while the south was lush and oil-rich, fueling conflicts that would eventually lead to South Sudan’s independence in 2011.

Sudan, like Egypt, has a deep and ancient history, yet it remains largely overlooked. The country is home to nearly 200 pyramids, many built during the Kushite Kingdom (2500–1500 B.C.), known as the Kingdom of the Black Pharaohs, which once conquered Egypt itself. Over time, Christianity spread, followed by Islam, which remains the dominant religion today.

More recently, Sudan’s history has been shaped by colonial struggles and political turmoil. It was a British colony, though its rule was met with numerous uprisings, most famously in the late 1800s when the Mahdi led an Islamic revolt, besieging Khartoum and beheading British Governor Gordon. Despite this, Sudan remained under British rule until independence in the 1950s. By the time of my visit, Omar al-Bashir had ruled the country for decades under an Islamic Republic, enforcing Sharia law. In 2009, he became the first sitting head of state indicted by the International Criminal Court for genocide in Darfur.

Sudan is vast, underdeveloped, and rarely visited by foreigners. For my trip, I focused on the Nile region and the surrounding desert north of Khartoum, where most archaeological treasures lie, including the pyramids of Meroe and Nuri. I stayed in humble, family-run guesthouses, except for one night of camping in the desert beside the Meroe pyramids—a surreal experience.

My 5-Day Itinerary in Sudan

Day 1 – Arrival in Khartoum & Omdurman

• Arrive from Cairo early morning
• Stay at Sharga Hotel, Khartoum
• Visit Mogran Park to see the confluence of the White and Blue Nile
• Explore the National Museum of Archaeology
• Visit Omdurman and the Mahdi’s Tomb
• Cross the Bayuda Desert to Karima (overnight in a guesthouse)

Day 2 – The Royal Necropolis & Jebel Barkal

• Drive to Kurru to visit the Royal Cemetery of the 25th Dynasty Kings
• Stop at the Petrified Wood Forest
• Explore Jebel Barkal, a massive table mountain sacred to the ancient Kushites
• Visit the Amun Temple, the Temple of Goddess Mut, and nearby pyramids
• Climb Jebel Barkal for sunset (overnight in Karima)

Day 3 – Nuri Pyramids & Meroe

• Drive to Nuri, the burial site of King Taharqa (680–669 B.C.)
• Visit Gazali Monastery
• Cross the Bayuda Desert, encountering Hassani nomads
• Arrive at the Meroe Pyramids, an ancient royal cemetery used from 270 B.C.–320 A.D.
• Camp overnight in the desert next to the pyramids

Day 4 – Ancient Temples & Back to Khartoum

• Explore Meroe Pyramids at sunrise
• Visit the well-preserved Roman Bath
• Stop in Shendi City
• Travel across the Awatib Valley desert track to Mussawarat
• Visit Naga, home to the Amun Temple, the Roman Kiosk, and the Lion Temple
• Return to Khartoum (overnight at Sharga Hotel)

Day 5 – Departure

• Early morning flight to Beirut, Lebanon via Cairo

My route in Sudan

Visa Hurdles and Arrival in Sudan

Getting my visa on arrival authorization for Sudan was anything but easy. My first fixer, who had been in constant contact with me for months, suddenly disappeared just weeks before my trip, leaving me scrambling to find a replacement. The only option I could secure at the last minute came at a hefty price, but at least it meant my trip to Sudan wouldn’t fall apart.

I flew into Khartoum via Cairo on EgyptAir, arriving in the capital with a mix of relief and anticipation. My first night was spent in a bleak downtown hotel, a no-frills introduction to the country. The next morning, I met my driver/guide, and we set off in a private Land Cruiser, heading north to explore Sudan’s ancient pyramids, vast deserts, and hidden archaeological treasures. The real adventure was about to begin.

Me with my driver wearing the traditional clothes he gave me

Kahrtoum school dhildren in their uniforms

Khartoum: A Missed Experience and a Historic Visit

One of my biggest regrets in Khartoum was missing the weekly Sufi ceremony, where whirling dervishes gather to dance, sing, and worship in a vibrant spiritual ritual. I had hoped to witness this mesmerizing display of Sudanese Sufi culture, but unfortunately, my timing didn’t align.

However, the highlight of my time in Khartoum was visiting the Tomb of the Mahdi. The Mahdi was a formidable leader who led a rebellion against British rule in the late 1800s, ultimately capturing Khartoum and beheading British Governor Gordon. His uprising shook British colonial power and left a lasting impact on Sudan’s history. Standing at his tomb, I reflected on how one man’s revolt had changed the course of an empire—a powerful reminder of Sudan’s defiant past.

Tomb of the Mahdi

Following the Nile Northward

For most of my journey through Sudan, I followed the Nile River northward, tracing the same path that has sustained civilizations for millennia. The only exception was when I had to cross the arid Bayuda Desert, a vast, inhospitable expanse of sand and rock.

Despite traveling along the Nile’s route, I rarely saw the river itself. Villages, agricultural fields, and homes clung tightly to the riverbanks, while the main road was set much farther inland. This meant that, for much of my drive, the life-giving waters of the Nile remained hidden—a stark contrast to the harsh, unforgiving desert that stretched in every other direction.

Nile River

Encounters with Nomads and Their Camels

Whenever I spotted nomads on the side of the road with their herds of camels, I couldn’t resist asking my driver to stop. These were rare, fleeting moments where I could step into their world, if only briefly. My guide translated as I chatted with them, learning about their journeys through the desert and their way of life.

One group we met was traveling with over 50 camels, a restless and ornery herd making their way across the arid landscape. Despite the harsh environment, the nomads welcomed us with genuine warmth, their faces weathered by the sun but full of pride in their traditions.

Sudan was one of the easiest places I’ve been to for photographing men—almost everyone I asked was happy to pose for me. Women, however, were a different story, as cultural norms meant they avoided the camera. Still, these encounters provided some of my most memorable portraits, capturing the resilience and spirit of Sudan’s desert wanderers.

Desert nomads

Nomad with camels

Nomad with camels

Nomad with camels

The Bleak Beauty of Sudan’s Desert

Much of Sudan’s desert was bleak and featureless, an endless expanse of sand and rock stretching to the horizon. But as we entered the vast Bayuda Desert, the landscape took on a different character—harsh and hostile, yet undeniably beautiful.

At one stop, I climbed a sand dune to take a quick break, but something in the distance caught my eye—a group of nomads with camels moving across the desert. Without hesitation, I ran ahead to meet them, eager for a closer look.

The moment I appeared, their faces froze in shock—after all, it’s not every day that a lone white man emerges from the dunes under the scorching midday sun. But their surprise quickly turned to warm smiles, and we struck up a brief conversation, with my guide translating. They were happy to pose for photos, and I walked away with another unforgettable desert encounter, a reminder of how even in the most remote places, a shared moment of curiosity can bridge worlds.

Bayoda Desert

Hassani Desert Nomads Bayoda Desert  

Hassani Desert Nomads Bayoda Desert  

Hassani Desert Nomads Bayoda Desert  

Karima and Jebel Barkal

In Karima, I stayed near the towering Jebel Barkal, a sacred mountain rising abruptly from the desert. At its foot, an ancient temple was under excavation by European archaeologists.

I climbed to the summit, where I sat at the cliff’s edge, overlooking the vast Nile plains below—a breathtaking view that blended history and the stark beauty of Sudan’s desert.

Amun Temple at Base of Jebel Barkal 

Amun Temple at Base of Jebel Barkal 

View of Nuri pyramids of Jebel Barkal

Me sitting on a cliff on the edge of Jebel Barkal

 Sunset at Jebel Barkal

Hidden Kushite Tomb Beneath a Rural Village

From Karima, we drove to a small village, offering a fascinating glimpse into rural Sudanese life. But the real treasure lay beneath it—a hidden tomb with perfectly preserved pictographs from ancient Kush.

A village caretaker met us at the gate, unlocked the entrance, and led us into the dark, musty corridors of the tomb. Inside, I was blown away by the vivid pictographs of Kushite gods and goddesses, their colors and details remarkably intact. It was an unexpected gem, a silent relic of a forgotten era, tucked away beneath an unassuming village.

Village Life

Village Life

Exploring the Tomb

Pictographas of the tomb-Between 650 and 300 B.C. The most famous tomb belongs to King Taharqa, the Black Pharaoh who conquered Egypt.  

The Nuri Pyramids: A Solitary Encounter with History

My favorite stop was the Nuri Pyramids, where around 20 pyramids still stand in various states of collapse—though at one time, there were nearly 80. We wandered among the ancient structures, taking in their weathered yet majestic presence.

For lunch, we sat in the shade at the base of one of the pyramids, a surreal setting to pause and absorb the history around us. As with every place I visited in Sudan, we were the only visitors, making the experience feel even more like stepping back in time.

Nuri Pyramids

Nuri Pyramids

Ruins of a Forgotten Monastery

We drove to the remains of an ancient Christian monastery, now mostly a pile of rubble, a stark reminder of Sudan’s early Christian past before Islam took hold. Among the ruins, a nomadic family had set up camp, their presence adding an unexpected layer of life and continuity to a place long abandoned.

Nomad girl at Chrsitian Monastery Ruins

Temple of Naga: A Forgotten Relic

On our way to Meroe, we stopped at several archaeological sites, but the most striking was the Temple of Naga. Once a grand structure, today its rows of stone lions are all that remain, standing as silent sentinels of a lost civilization.

Naga Temple

Camping Among the Meroe Pyramids: A Night to Remember

While the Nuri Pyramids were my favorite site (and I wished I had camped there), my most unforgettable experience in Sudan was camping beside the Meroe Pyramids. Incredibly, there were no other visitors, and no one was trying to sell me anything—a rarity in today’s world.

My tent was set up a few hundred yards away, with a perfect view of the pyramids. At sunset, I climbed to the top, watching the sky turn fiery orange over the desert. At sunrise, I did the same, soaking in the tranquil beauty of an ancient world untouched by mass tourism.

That night, I walked over to the pyramids again, stopping to admire the brilliant night sky. I turned off my flashlight, standing in silence and awe—until I suddenly felt a hand on my shoulder. My heart nearly stopped.

For a split second, I thought I was about to be grabbed by some ancient pyramid ghost—but it was just a guard who didn’t have a flashlight. Evidently, visiting the pyramids at night wasn’t allowed. I apologized and returned to my tent, mostly just relieved that I hadn’t been dragged into some supernatural desert legend.

Meroe Pyramids

Meroe Pyramids

Inside Meroe Pyramids

Sunrise at Meroe Pyramids